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Came this morning, nice. Now applied.

They are likely to inform you that the belt doesn’t need changing until it’s covered in excess of 125K miles, without any specified time limit. The car you intend buying is now approaching 9 years old and has covered just over 3k miles a year on average. When you say it has service history, has it been serviced annually? If it hasn’t, it hasn’t been serviced properly. Whereas low mileage appeals, it has to be considered that vehicles are likely to have been used on short journeys, with stops starts ( where the belt will be stressed) and increased wear on clutches etc., and can potentially be as worn as a vehicle which has covered treble that mileage operating under optimum running conditions on the motorway. It’s obviously your choice John, but by previous recommendations on time limits, the car should already be due for its second belt change as it approaches 10 year old. I my book, there isn’t any debate, and I would be changing it now, to minimise the risk of it being rendered beyond economical repair should the belt decide to part company. As Richard says, renew the auxiliary belt at the same time. In case it helps, I use Gates belts and tensioner kits. Regards, Gareth.

Very nice 🙂 👍

Welcome Monty, I believe the courtesy lights are controlled by the door latch/latches. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Susan, and sorry to hear of your issue. Did you buy the car from a dealer or privately, and what mileage has it done to warrant a new (aftermarket?) catalytic converter? Sorry, the videos done work on my system. Regards, Gareth.

Yep - I think I'm going to buy that now - it brings the price down to just under £175 delivered. I'll get it sent to my mate's house, since I'll be away. It being an exchange item puts the kibosh on my plan to repair and keep the other as a spare, but that's acceptable, given the price... 🙂 Mike 😎

I have dealt with Parts in Motion for number of years, and I find their prices are competitive, and their service has been faultless. Yes, you should expect Bosch to give you good service - make sure you order by 2/9 to get a remarkable 20% of the quoted price. Exchange item,where you have to return your existing one?? Please let us know how you get on.

Advice varies as you can tell, however 5 years or 60k miles is a good start. It’s not just the belt, but tensioner pulley, water pump, etc. Possibly over cautious, but if the belt snaps, then the engine is goosed. The mechanic will also check bearing wear on other pulleys. Throw on new auxilliary serpentine belt for peace of mind too.

Standard vented discs and pads all day long. By standard, I mean good quality, Ate, Zimmermann, Textar, TRW, etc. Only reason to go drilled and grooves is if you potentially use the car on track days, or you drive it hard. That said, you can still get cars that feel that they have inadequate brakes. Used to have an Audi A4 2.5TDI Quattro Avant (basically Amtrak locomotive). Not particularly powerful by today’s standard, but seriously lacked braking power given its weight. In those cases, go for a compatible brake upgrade. That often means changing the carriers, flexi hoses and calipers, not to mention discs and pads.

Hi Thanks for letting me join, new member in sunny South Yorkshire just about to buy our second ever Audi since owning an Audi 80 over 25 years ago, looking forward to contributing to the community

OK, sorry for the long delay in replying but life got in the way as usual... So all 6 changed and I can confirm no pistons hit any glow plugs... 🙂 Was actually very straight forward, soaked them over night in Ludwig Rust Remover and carefully removed them with a setting of 20 Newton/M on the torque wrench ( all loosened with less - surprised as the motor has 333,333km on it and these have never been changed since I have had it from 90,000km ) after blowing out and vacuuming all the crap out ( mainly crumbling rubber sockets ). I could reach all 6 without a flexible connection after removing the swirl flap motors ( 3 set screws to each ). What was very useful was a short length of plastic hose that snuggly fitted the end connector ( 4mm inner diameter ) to remove and place the new ones - it had enough grip to start the new ones in their threads. Faults cleared with OBDeleven and all good to go. So to conclude - the extra 4mm didn't create a problem - the fitted length was 130mm ( pin 28mm ) and any of these on AutoDoc would have done. Thanks for all the advise etc.