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Hi Gareth. This place specialises in Audi.VW. Soda and Porche. There place is in Worksop. The front sub frame I've got is a used on but in good condition. I think it was around £ 200.00 . 6 months guarantee. The guy i dealt with is Adam, very helpful. The phone nos. 01909 531537. Press option 1 used parts. Adam is very knowledgeable and very helpful. A good service. Hope this is of use to other Audi guys.

Hi there buddy, I enquired at our local Audi dealer....🤪 £1700:00. I`ve sourced one, from Motors in motion ltd. Thanks for your info anyway , appreciated Kelvin

Welcome Kelvin, If you want to get one from Audi, then please arrange a mortgage beforehand. Try I M Axles - they manufacture replacement sub frames and may do one for yours. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

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All fitted. As Joe said, there are no wires behind. Took garage 30 seconds! Now have neat little storage box. Purchased from here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185942546637 Seller is genuine Audi parts called Mon Motors Audi Parts

John. Do yourself a favour, throw your meter in the rubbish bin, and then get the battery and alternator professionally tested. Until you can prove that the battery and alternator are in good condition any warning light or message is likely to be false. A defective battery can easily be responsible for all the map and radio problems your car is suffering.

Right, I re checked the different voltages again just now, and the results are as follows: Standing Voltage with ignition off is 11.96v. The lowest voltage my rudimentary multi meter caught on cranking the engine was 10.47v, and the voltage measured with the car idling was 15.19v - which I think would indicate that the alternator at least appears ok. Regards John.

Hi Clare Your model & year - Audi A6 C8 Avant 50Tdi Quattro 2020 model MFR’D OCT 19 Mileage at failure - I think about 78,000 at the time. (I was not given paperwork) Dealer name & outcome (goodwill %, warranty, or full cover) - Excellent Customer Service at Caffyns Audi Eastbourne - BSG Changed 100% Free of Charge. I referred the dealer to the following website: https://www.check-vehicle-recalls.service.gov.uk/recall-type/vehicle/make It is important to appreciate that some ‘recalls’ only apply if a fault is reported, rather than the proactive contacting of owners. screen shot below. have a check for you vehicle.

Officially going by the book, the dash has to come out, but it can be done without it!!! There is a youtube video of someone replacing the flap motor by removing just the lower part of the dash and the side of the side console. It's a bit awkward to bend down and get access but it can be done. I think there is another flap motor that needs to be removed before you can get access to the other flap motor. I showed my Audi specialist the video and he managed to do it. I think it cost around £450 all in. The genuine Audi part was around £100, but i'm sure you can get a cheaper copy part. I don't think you can recalibrate the part via a panel button sequence. You need an OBD2 scanner that has the 'Basic Reset' function to do this.

Look on LLL parts and get a part number based on year, engine code, etc and go from there. I take it - it's a non-quattro? It's Also known as front subframe cross-member. They are just powder-coated steel, so yes, they eventually succumb. Treat with Lanoguard or similar once fitted.

If I understand your post correctly, they other vents blow hot and cold air (depending on the temp setting on the climate control) but the driver's side is stuck on low? If so, I had the same problem. The problem is a motor that's bolted on the heater core (behind the centre console, on the driver's side) has failed. This motor controls a plastic arm that move the flap controlling the flow of hot air to the vent (there are 3 motors that control the temp for the various vents independently). The part itself cost around £170 (part is 'V159 control motor' for the driver side). Labour was around 2.5 hours. It cost me around £450 in total to fix it. You will need to find a garage that has the Vag.com or VCDS software though, as they need to perform a 'basic setting' on the part to sync it to the system. A decent VAG specialist garage should have this software. Technically, the whole dash is supposed to come out to reach the part (going by the book), but a mechanic can get away with removing just the lower part of the drivers side dash and get enough space to replace the part (it's a tight fit though). There is a good video guide on youtube is you search for it.