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I suffered what seems to be a common fault last week when the rear wiper motor erratically operated without being turned on, and then stopped completely. It turned out to be caused by blocked washer jets which blew out the seals and allowed water into the motor. (The water pipe runs inside the motor spindle.) Fortunately I was recommended to try an independent VAG repairer who not only fitted a new motor in one day but only charged a shade over £200 - a lot cheaper than a Audi main dealer. The moral of the story is to keep washer jets clear.

It must be the season for them Cliff! They certainly aren’t an endangered species, and seem to congregate on here of late.

Evidently not. That's another one for P&R blacklist.

Perhaps they are dead.

Used to average 40-44mpg, and that was on B8 A4 Allroad with same engine 177PS in efficiency mode (manual 6 speed box). So Quattro will always reduce fuel efficiency. On front wheel drive I’d expect high 40s. if you’re worried, change fuel filter. Should be done every 20k mikes. You can also run a can of Forte diesel fuel conditioner through it first on a quarter tank, then swap the filter. Mann filters are OE.

Yes i will.. and thanks its great to know there are good people out there will help people they have never spoken to or met before. Phil.

Could it be a non return valve to stop fuel draining back to the tank when parked up

You can easily calculate it for yourself. Fill the tank at the start of a long journey, fill it again at the end, then divide the distance travelled by the number of gallons you put in.

Hello Don, If the opinions you sought on here are not considered to be sufficiently ‘specialist ‘ then I don’t think the forum can assist you further via. its experience - which in Stevey Y’s case is build on hundreds of thousands of miles. To move this on, you will need to put your hand in your pocket and pay for an inspection report on the vehicle from an experienced automotive engineer, and hope - from your standpoint- that that inspection will concur with that of the AA and the opinions you sought on here. If not, of course, you will have zero redress. For what it’s worth, I have the SD4 engine in a non-Audi, and I chose this 2.2 variant following some research of opinion. You mention you cannot remember the mode of failure of that engine, maintained by your garage friend, but surely you can recall symptoms which led to that failure. Apologies Don but all I can do is to wish you luck with getting some recompense. Regards, Gareth.

Don. Bear in mind that none of us have laid eyes or hands on your engine, so our assessment is based solely on your description and one photograph. Nevertheless those of us who have offered an opinion can not imagine that siezure of the fuel pump can snap the cambelt unless it was either defective or wrongly fitted.

Hi go on to LLL carparts website put in your vin and search sensors it will throw up a diagram I believe there are three, one before the cat one after and one a lot further back assuming your model has the second Adblue injector station on the lower part of the exhaust. Steve.

New motor and wiper installed, great advice overall, thanks

So i have done the Heater core matrix change and it was not difficult without any mechanical knowledge, however would recommend to have someone to help you as at some stages it looks like you need another pair of hands just for holding a pipe in position or a torch. Started by removing the glove box and some covers on the passenger side: Then you will be able to see the heater core and pipes. After this, remove the media unit and disconnect all cables, all colour coded and different types of connectors, so it will be easy to connect back, but just in case, take a picture for reference. Remove the foam cover And remove the fan, few screws holding it. Remove the sensor in front of the heater matrix, which is blocking the bottom part of it. Place a tub under and start loosening the pipes. After that, push the pipe out of the way and slide the heater core out. Change the core and do everything back in reverse. I have bought new seals and clamps as well for the pipe, don`t need to, but it was just in case. Would at least recommend changing the seals. Was very difficult to alight the pipe and at the same time tighten the screws when putting back together as there was not a lot of room and make sure you put clamps facing the same way as they were due to not blocking the plastic going back in at the bottom of the heater core. Prior to the task, I completely flushed the coolant and changed the coolant tank, which I bought for 30£ as there was a lot of residue sitting at the bottom of it. Job done in April. Any questions I will try to answer when I can. Thanks and good luck,