Stevey Y

Hi yellow is a non urgent fault red means serious, get the car scanned for faults as this will tell you the sensor that is playing up. Steve.

Hi it could well be that the rear N/S calliper/ handbrake is sticking as the brake system works diagonally I.E. front N/S and rear O/S are one system, front O/S and rear N/S are the other tandem, when the rears stick they don't allow the front partner calliper to release their pressure so they have minimal contact with that disc and cause it to bind and warp the new disc. Audi as usual are talking bullocks about the other stuff Steve.

Hi mirrors don't need coding its probably a break in the loom between the door and body, another one answer wonder, cheers easy, Steve.

Hi living on the edge with that one its a belt which is long overdue for a change. Steve.

Hi its only the mirror lens thats held on with double sided tape the backing pad with the heater element is soaked with a bonded resin which can't fail but the element inside can. Steve.

Well asked, it will make a difference to any diagnosis so would plugging it in for fault codes. Steve.

Hi check the connector to the light for corrosion on the unit itself and the plug, normally its a bad earth caused by those two components if so buy a good quality contact cleaner and give both sides a good hosing down, also check the wiring to the plug for breakages/deterioration. Steve.

Hi they all do it not just Audis, when I was running Mondeos that was there favourite trick as well as spreading foam crumbs all over the carpet I used to go down the breakers and find a car that was picked clean and buy the passenger seat foam and use that as it had less wear, I think the new foam is probably your best bet and is easily fitted so that will be it for another 168k by which time I think you will be past caring LOL. Steve.

Hi have you tried cleaning the throttle body as if this is filthy and the butterfly valve is sticking that throws up a code for the position sensor. Steve.

Hi is it a H7bulb or a D3S bulb, or a Ds5 bulb, does it have fish eye lenses or just a good old reflector, they are not all the same and a picture will help. Steve.

Hi Gareth well done, I would lay strong money that the plug in and the part are not even close to the Audi figure just for the sensor, who dares wins Rodney as Dell boy used to say. Steve.

Hi why are you going to Audi any half decent independent garage can sort that out, the vehicle needs to be scanned for trouble codes that will give you your answer. Steve.

Hi the cable will not work on its own its an interface that will have to be connected to a laptop that already has the appropriate software on it, the cable on its own is useless otherwise as you need something to connect it to, other than that pay your local independent garage to put it out with their scanner, if you own a car 2000 onwards some sort of VAG software device is a crucial part of maintaining your own vehicle, I put my service light and inspection due to bed with mine. Steve.

Hi this is the problem with remaps you will probably have to buy an uprated clutch, LUK own Sachs so I very much doubt there is any difference as as long as the dimensions are the same the branding is irrelevant. Steve.

Hi get the part number off of the old unit and plumb it in to eBay, my mate had the same problem with his four year old Skoda, we were told that the pumps are no longer available but we found the same pump fitted to a MK7 golf job done, good shout Kev. Steve.

Hi if it is the same dimensions as the old unit it will probably work as is all the manufacturers do is swap suppliers every so often, cross check the part numbers. Steve.

Hi try youtube there is bound to be a video on how to, the cable will probably work but only with a computer with the appropriate software already downloaded, personally I would steer clear of this unbranded type of interface as its back door Chinese and could cause problems the easiest route is buy the basic OBD Eleven as this is tried and tested and the bonus is you can do a lot of other stuff on it. Steve.

Hi what I meant was does the noise go when you push the clutch down without increasing the revs, just trying to eliminate the clutch as the culprit. Steve.

Hi have you chased the wheel sensors wiring up behind the arch liners thats where it normally goes as its nice and damp under there with loads of dirt. Steve.

Hi just thought I would put this out there, I have been trialing some Adblue out of Halfords its called YARA and comes in a 3.5 litre pouch with a really good pouring spout built on to it so no wastage leaking from the joint of the screw on spouts, its about £6.50 a go but two pouches are enough to put the light out and it seems to last much longer than the rest of the brands I have used to the point where I had put some in in August and the light came on yesterday so considering I do around 160 miles a day is not bad, so in my considered opinion its worth a go. Steve.

Hi how many miles have we done and does the noise stop when you rev it with the clutch engaged. Steve.

Hi if you are lucky the crank sensor is near the pulley on the front, if not it will be at the back of the engine underneath where the gearbox joins the engine its a pig to get at but doable, the ABS sensors have nothing to do with the running of the engine. Steve.

Hi have you tried youtube I suspect that they are the same as the A6 where access to the bulb is via the inspection cover in the wheel arch to negate headlight removal. Steve.

Hi if the pipe is metal it will be possible to weld it but it must be removed from the car to make that possible, you might get a better response if you can post a picture of it, as for who can do it, anyone with a bit of savvy and a MIG welder, as for acceptable if it aint leaking they can't fail it. Steve.

Hi where did you get the alternator as when put under load [everything electrical on] it should be showing 14.5 volts, yours is 1volt above the batteries standby voltage. it could be a Battery Energy Monitor problem. Steve.