Stevey Y

Hi I would definitely get some body in that line of work to look at it and tell you realtime what's been done, never been a fan of mapping as half the clowns out there have no idea what they are doing or what the long term implications of their work is, are you still getting codes? Steve.

Hi it is most likely the camera under the windscreen failing they are very sensitive to heat/cold and living with it verses the cost of replacement is a no brainer. Steve.

Hi could be the delete and remap are causing the problem all airflow and exhaust flows are monitored against each other if the exhaust gas is escaping to fast the the o2 sensor can't read it properly, thinking behind this is all DPF deletes involve physical removal of some or all of the DPF core. Steve.

Hi which brand of brake fluid was used when it was changed I have found that you can't just use any DOT4 as this caused quite a few component failures on my car until I settled on Comma ESP4 this is as close as you get to OE without the price tag, even the garage I use has started using what they call the expensive stuff as 2ltres is about the same as what they would have paid for a gallon of the trade stuff, all brake fluid is hydroscopic, [absorbs water] but having done some research it seems the cheaper fluids absorb water faster and the majority of modern car breaking systems rely on fluid viscosity, worth a try?. PS you can't cause damage over filling a brake reservoir. Steve.

Hi Natasha and welcome, this forum has a lot of info on Q7 ownership and its pitfalls as well as solutions to those pitfalls. Steve.

Hi Rob, yes its the cover thats behind the mirror if you pull it off its under there its attached to the screen by some sort of metal spring holder it also acts as a humidity sensor for the climate control the other problem sensor is the fresh air one which hangs inside the air intake box under the front scuttle where the window wiper is front left as you sit in car, I just used to clean that in alcohol and it would start working again. Steve.

Hi Rob I had the same issue with my A6 when I first got it it turned out to be the sensor under the cowling under the mirror, apparently its a common problem, its a bit of a faff to get to but doable its just a plastic disc with wires. Steve.

Hi Steve that looks the better option, ask for a comprehensive list of what's been refurbished, yes its a lot more money but it will at least give you a solid platform to build on. Steve.

Hi either the oil pressure switch or the bulb in the dash pod otherwise it would seize up in short order. Steve.

Hi Andy unfortunately not, Audi have all the codes for every model from 2011 up and wont supply that information to any outside key suppliers, its not like the old days when you got a dummy key and just coded the new transducer in that key via the ignition. Steve.

Hi the horizontal lines I would say are honing marks [normal] the vertical marks are not and a sign of oil starvation or cracked piston rings. Steve.

Hi thats not the service position thats the motor knackered, they don't have a service position, this is a well known problem as its a bad design a percentage of water gets past the spindle seal and terminates the motor. Steve.

Hi Steve, I personally would not go anywhere near that one it looks like cheap trouble until you get the bill for the rebuild, go for a later engine thats got some history and runs, not some vague statement that it did and then spent an indeterminate time in storage, no milage, I think he wants to go to the pub on someones £80, I have made the same mistake in the past especially when driven by desperation, take your time send your cash wisely and make sure what goes in at least works. Steve

Hi Steve your mechanic is correct, due to Audis practise of using the same engine but putting different emissions gear on them and giving the engine a different designation you are almost certain to be successful as the basic block will be the same as will the heads, if you look at the engines for my A6 CNHA most of the parts were common to the DETA,DDDA,same engine different horsepower which is controlled by the ECU, ergo unless the engine has a mind of its own it will wait for the ECU to tell it what to do. Steve.

Hi I would get it scanned for fault codes, it may be an immobiliser problem. Steve.

Hi sorry to hear of your woes, I would definitely look at OBD eleven it will give you better scope to at least identify your problems and as code readers go its cheap. Steve.

Hi yes it can be done with VCDS you have to go into basic settings and scroll through the menu it will have a box for re adaptation for your sensor, might be nice if you can tell us which one was changed?

Hi I am thinking water has ingress under the antenna on the roof as for the fault codes for the rest of the car most of these are better read by VCDS, obd eleven or similar, Steve

Hi it means in simple terms re adapt this is the process of telling the ECU that it has a new sensor that will read differently from the old one, therefore the term re learning its values therefore giving the ECU the correct information within its operating strategy.

Hi you are buying something someone else has been driving so unless you know them and their driving style its very possible, there is an old girl that uses the garage I do that gets through a clutch on her Corsa about every six months, they have the burnt and buckled remains of the worst one like a trophy on the workshop wall. Steve.

Probably, they do like to hang on to a fault light even though the problem is not still there, any garage will be able to clear them. Steve.

Hi do the global opening and closing a couple of times on the key fob and that should re educate it. Steve.

Hi its pretty tight in there I would definitely check the depth of the recess more than any thing to make sure the tyre width wont exceed the height of the floor cover a good quality rubber boot liner would take care of any chafing issues, my A6 was never even close to the amount of boxes and wires you have. Steve.

Hi, as long as the cables for the extra battery don't go inside the wheel tub you should be fine measure the O/D of your existing wheels on your car and marry that against the I/D of the wheel tub, the moulding for the cr@p inflation system is removable and just leaves you the threaded spigot which will anchor your space saver, you can get round the possible noise of the wheel against the floor by buying some cheap stick on insulation, about 4mm thick from eBay and sticking it around the tub, if you mount the wheel face down you can use the space inside the wheel for your jack wrapped in an old towel or similar, just did this on my new Passat cab and found to my joy that the wheel tub was deep enough to take a full size spare. Steve.

Hi Gareth I appreciate your sentiment but realistically I doubt it will make a difference to more than a minority as most of these one post wonders can't even be bothered to look through the legions of post on this wonderful site to see if there is already an answer to their question, NO its far easier just to wait for some poor soul to to spoon feed the answer to them, I find this situation intolerable and on a personal level endorses my opinion that charging a small joining fee would eradicate the free loaders and any funds gathered from serious users would help with the costs of this forum, I have joined a few forums in my time and all required a subscription with the exception of some Ford forums, over the last couple of years the formulae for this situation has become blindingly apparent these people buy these cars in the blind belief that the Audi never goes wrong, someone told them that and its what they wanted to hear, most of the members on here all know that statement to be far from the truth, thats why they are here and after their own problems are solved actively engage in trying to help others, I have noticed lately that a couple of new members have posted the problem and the solution to that problem that they have worked out for themselves, we could definitely do with more members with that mind set. Steve.