Stevey Y

Hi it is more than likely a coding issue, was the new unit second hand? if not it will still need coding. Steve.

Hi have a look under the bonnet around the fuel filter pipework, the fuel filter housing is on the left of the engine bay at the front and has at least nine very small torx screws holding the lid on wit metal pipes coming out of it which connect to rubber hoses, just check for any wetness around there and the engine bay, remove the plastic baffle cover on top of the engine, it just pulls up and off and check around the injectors as you might have a weeping supply connector where the metal pipe joins the injector. Steve.

Hi the pipe bit sounds ok but you definitely need a new reservoir as if its the original its way past saving as by the sound of your description the reservoir filter has given up. Steve.

Hi if you know what the problem is take it to an independent garage it will be a hell of a lot cheaper. Steve.

Hi try hosing it with WD40 and then twist it with the pin nosed pliers, when reassembling coat the top of the plug with silicone grease as this stops them sticking to the plug, as for the rattles I have no idea. Steve.

Hi the only real way to get more horsepower is to have a QUALITY remap which costs a lot of money, anything that is offered from a guy in a van thats cheaper will not do the job, you need a company with a workshop and a rolling road and above all a well advertised track record, not a great fan of remaps as they eat into the cars reliability factor, there are tuning chips that fit between the fuel rail and fuel temperature sensors but if you want a knackered engine in a years time be my guest. Steve.

Hi it sounds like big ends or a stuck hydraulic tappet, either way its not good news my guess is a sticking tappet so its probably only running on a couple of cylinders. Steve.

Hi its the fluid reservoir there is a filter built into the reservoir which over time becomes blocked and eventually tears thus allowing the fluid to flow freely which manifests itself in to much air in the fluid. [pump noise] and the high flow rate you are experiencing, the fixing of the pipe is nothing to do with it unless you used a much smaller bore of pipe to bridge it which would cause extra pressure by limiting the flow rate to the rack. Steve.

Hi they stop the cable from falling back from the gap between the roof liner and the metal roof and dangling on the windscreen. Steve.

Hi try this simple reset first, with the car in neutral engine on disable the hill assist button then apply the foot brake and turn off the handbrake, leave for thirty seconds then manually pull the switch up twice and then down twice and again up twice turn the car off and see what happens. Steve.

Hi its either a switch problem which you have ruled out or wiring fault where the live feed to the switch is not shutting down, have you any access to OBD Eleven or similar, this would throw a fault for the electrics and I can't imagine the switches are coded but will do some digging. Steve.

Hi it sounds like a problem with the switch was the replacement new? Steve.

Hi any of the trim tool kits on eBay will do the job just don't buy a cheap one as they tend to snap, you can poke the wire under the front of the roof lining and the easiest way to get it to stay put is get some cable ties and put one around the cable every six inches and leave about 8mm when you cut the excess off this helps it grip, then poke the cable up behind the metal strip on the metal part of the roof at the front of the headlining, you can do this with your fingers. Steve.

Hi what should happen is you lock the car and the brake light on the switch stays on for about 30 secs to a min and then it should go out. Steve.

Hi I hate to say this but these are ALL classic symptoms of a failing battery, I don't know how old your old battery is but if it was not readapted to the car when fitted it will fail in record time, do you have access to any diagnostics as I am sure these lights are communication fault caused by inconsistent battery voltage, in the old days a car could run on a knackered battery mostly on whatever the alternator puts out but later vehicles won't as the alternator currents always fluctuating. I would start in the boot and check all the wiring and plugs that were anywhere near that water the easiest way to check would be connect the car to a slave battery and run the car on and off a few times to see if any of the lights disappear but TBH plugging in is really the only definitive answer. Steve.

Hi a thousand apologies, thats what comes off the back of a large roast dinner and not paying attention. Steve.

Hi Tony, can you expand on the multiple faults you titled this post with ?. Steve.

Hi this is a possible but unless you can communicate with it via the OBD this would be difficult to track down in the absence of a fault code, there are others who have posted with a similar problem and it turned out to be dodgy wiring in the boot ECU. Steve.

Hi sounds like a glow plug circuit problem but why that would cause a failure of the Can Gateway I don't know, try the simple thing of hosing down the OBD port with electrical cleaner first it could be a filthy pin on the connector. Steve.

Hi hit it with Plusgas and leave it overnight then heat it up with a blowtorch and try twisting it out with a plumbers wrench, it sounds a bit savage but its worked for me, other than that its a cylinder head off job and will need drilling out. Steve.

Hi I think thats a voltage stabiliser module, nothing in the boot enjoys water. Steve.

Hi, there are two fuel pressure regulators in the system, one on the HPFP and one at the end of the fuel rail, my guess is its the fuel rail sensor as if it was the pump sensor it would not run well at any rev range. Steve.

Hi its a universal thing with diesels they all do it especially when treated to lots of short journeys at low speeds, best thing to do is fill it with decent quality fuel and give it a run down the motorway for about twenty miles that will clean most of the crud out, then buy a fuel additive suggest Hydra Maximus I use it in my cab which does a lot of short journeys but because the additive makes the fuel burn more efficiently the regenerations are less aggressive and not as frequent, also stay away from supermarket fuel IT WILL KILL YOUR ENGINE, do not keep stopping when the fans come on as this is known as a aborted regeneration which over time will cause engine/emission system failure. Steve. Steve.

Hi sounds like they are both diesels and trying to regenerate the DPF, the reason for the suggested down shift is to raise the revs to help with the regeneration process by increasing engine temperature. Steve.

Hi I have always found that best policy is replace both as that way you are guaranteed to get the offending unit, unfortunately you can't re lubricate the bearings as they are sealed units the outside seal contains the speed sensor ring, the job itself is not to bad and your garage will love you forever if you go the extra £ and buy the bearings with the hub flange already fitted as that saves the labour on pressing the old one out. The grease in the bearings dries out over time/milage if you consider the age of your car its a testament to the build quality of the bearings. Steve.