Stevey Y

Hi it may well be the low pressure fuel pump in the tank as if that goes sideways it will throw up codes for the high pressure side as its not getting enough fuel, the throttle valve is probably gummed up but in saying that what is your engine code?, that will have a bearing on your problems as to its operating systems they throw up different codes, to be fair I think the price you were quoted is over what a normal garage would quote by several miles, if you can get me your engine version I can probably get you some sane prices on the parts, the only worrying code is p2002 as thats the low pressure egr cooler thats a nasty thing to replace, the only real way to dig in to this is get it read with VCDS as that supplies the date and time of the fault and it could be that some of these faults are very old and no longer current, I have found this with my car as the milage racks up you get odd random codes which when deleted never rear their ugly head again, ask for a breakdown of what he is actually going to do for the £1850.00 + vat

Hi if you give one of the guys on here a personal message I am sure he will be able to help, its AUDIA4 Kev he h is mine of info, if I have it wrong please contact Magnet as he will have the correct messaging details.

Hi it would be incredibly helpful if you can publish the codes furthermore the statement legal would lead me to believe that you are dealing with what's known in your area as SCALLYS, its not legal and if you don't believe me google it and read the ton of information on that subject, somewhere in the paperwork when you sign it will be a disclaimer saying you told them it was not going to be used on public roads anymore, furthermore a delete should only cost a max of £500, chances are your light has more to do with p2002 which is the EGR cooler but without codes how long is a piece of string. Steve.

Hi no worries, have seen this before where you disconnect something and it blows something else, the wiring on all Audis is over complex but it pays to look at the simple things first, I have even had it where I had no illumination on a tail light but power coming in so replaced the bulb with a new one, still no light replaced the new one with an old bulb I had laying about and BINGO, turns out I had picked the only duff bulb in a box of ten, how's yer luck.

Hi I would take the re seal its a horrible job and requires a fair amount of specialist equipment allied to a world of patience.

Hi I think the fuses in the ECU theory is horse manure the units are security sealed with no access for the changing of any fuses even if you had it apart, lateral thinking asks why would you put a fuse [which will fail at some point] in a secure no access shell ?, I think someone has run out of solid plausible excuses, my first port of call would be to check the bulbs and power supply to the light units themselves if everything else is working chances are the bulbs have been shorted out if they removed any wiring plugs.

Hi the problem is that you have to see past the plug in and play bit, it is that way if you have the facility to code them in thats why the vendor offers that service in the description, the flickering is caused by the BCM trying to identify the new type of light by pulsing voltage but it can't achieve the correct voltage against its already learned voltage for the halogen units.

Hi having looked at the product its from a very reputable source, BUT if you read the advert for the cables it definitely states that they will need coding to the new car.

Hi you mentioned wiring kit, is it a kit with Canbus control, also were the headlights from the donor car in use recently or have they been standing for a while, also which bulbs do they use?

Hi you may have said leak behind the light but you did initially call it a headlight, I am sure you know what a light is but you can see Cliff and Gareths confusion from the earlier posts, we all know what a light is and what end each one goes, headlight front, tail light rear.

Hi just thought I would put this out there, I have been mulling this one over for the last couple of years and finally taken the plunge having spoken to a man who knows his wiring and discovered that 10w wont break the bank, the car uses D5s 25w bulbs as standard and these are pretty poor in the wet at night, I replaced the bulbs a couple of years ago with only a marginal improvement and a substantial cost, so after chatting to the Skoda electrician I now know that HID lights are now classed as the poor mans option versus LED units, I explained about my problem and he suggested using the 35w bulbs as these have more output and as long as they are 12v 35w D5s units they will be fine and also said I should get the 5500 kelvin rated bulb for maximum effect, I asked him why the o.e. manufacturers did not make these and he explained they do but the rating only goes to 4500 kelvin which they class as an upgrade and all dealer bulbs are now 5500-6000 kelvin rated because of the complaints about lighting from owners, enough I fitted an aftermarket set of bulbs two for the price of one Osram and I have now got at least fifty metres more usable light even in the worst rain/dark, as for longevity I will let you know. Steve.

Hi are the lights second hand? as this kind of symptom is normally caused by bulb/ballast failure, the flickering is caused by a lack of voltage continuity in either module.

Hi its pretty simple the adblue cap is the one with the 19mm nut on the top there is also a sticker on the fuel cover that shows you which is which, I use my breaker bar with an extension connected to a 19mm socket it works well, just remember to wash the cap in clean warm water before replacing it. Steve.

Hi it was the no clue what to do statement that worried me, I quote the case of a couple of weeks ago when topping up my adblue outside my local Halfords when a guy approached me with the question, where are you putting your adblue as he explained he was just about to stick it in the diesel tank.

Hi good shout but you forgot to tell him its the smaller of the two filler caps with the nut on top of the cap, 19mm, just in case he puts it in with the diesel, that wont end well.

Hi are we talking Driving lamps or DRLs either way the mounting instructions are pretty comprehensive and will advise the best mounting positions and power in feed, I have fitted a couple of their kits to older cars, plenty of how to videos on YouTube.

Hi Yara is not discontinued it just morphed into Halfords own brand, two 5ltr pouches for £20 the clue is on the packaging where it says made by YARA in small letters at the back of it with their viking logo.

Hi go on Google and see if there are any thread recovery companies in your area, they normally have a few tricks/equipment to remove the old bolt remains, have seen it done before at my local garage. Steve.

Hi they have cut down on the quality of parts for the new electric cars and this includes alloys, I was told by a Ford uk accountant just last week that all car producers are euphoric over how much money they can make out of electric vehicles as they all use the same drive train and globalised parts therefore they can cut down on the quality of most other parts that were expensive, looked inside an E Tron one of the other cabbies has bought, the seats are cloth which looked very much like a sixties settee, remember thicker lacquer costs more money. Steve.

Hi as far as I was aware Pagid have never been O.E. as they have never had an E11-E9 rating unless they have suddenly acquired a E rating we went through this before on here and JDragon produced a flyer from Eurocarparts of every pad they sell and only Pagid/Eicher did not have an E rating as they are both own brands, worth checking as I have used their own brands before, yes they stop but oh boy do they wear quickly, worth doing the research on line about E11-E9 ratings its most illuminating. Steve.

Hi looks like the outside temperature sensor has gone bad mind you it could be a sign of instrument cluster failure, not uncommon on that model and year.

Hi sorry to be the prophet of doom but thats what happened to a guy on here with an A3 of a similar year, after trying every cleaner known to the motor trade it turns out that was the problem no DPF and a bad map, I think the easiest route would be to consult another [reputable ] mapping specialist and they can normally spot someone else's bad handiwork and rectify it, thats what other guy did and I think it solved his problem, although he hasn't been on here since. Steve.

Hi sounds very much flywheel, it goes quite when you push the clutch in because that takes up the slack in the flywheel. Steve.

Hi sounds suspiciously like the DPF has been bored out and its had a remap as it definitely should not smoke as the DPF and CAT stop any excessive smoke, if it was standard you would have limp mode and codes. Steve.

Hi most of them are like that, the newer ones are even more complex its all designed to stop Joe average from doing anything themselves, I have VCDS and there are times when its a real mission to do these functions you mentioned especially unforgiving if you don't get the sequence right, it just locks you out, I got lucky being as I bought the entry level A6 and they couldn't be bothered to make coding the headlights a priority it was just a case of plug in and play with just a tickle on the manual adjusters, get this for insane the garage I use had a 16 plate Evoke in, top of the range with a headlight problem on the n/s, the LED bit had blown so the guy who owned it had to fork out £1800 for a new unit and guess what, it needed coding to the car. Steve.