Stevey Y

Hi get a fine dress making pin stick it in the washer jet and by trial and error adjust the little ball valve which moves inside the housing, its a bit of a drama but you will soon get the hang of how far to move each jet and in which direction. Steve.

Hi you can't have it mapped out individually so as there are two EGR valves the one on the cooler thats inside the DPF and another high pressure valve on the intake manifold, if you can find someone that can map out both thats fine except for the higher exhaust temperature will then start to kill the Turbo, you can't blank the low pressure cooler because its actually inside the DPF and even if you took it out and blocked all the cooling tubes you would be left with a permanent EML as it thinks its still blocked, its easier to buy a new cooler,NOT FROM AUDI, at £400 + just for the cooler £750+ for the valve and cooler which whatever dealer you speak to they claim the cooler and valve come as a set, I have just had to buy another cooler as the one I fitted now has 65k on it my A6 is a cab and the lights beginning to pop up randomly but I did some research and bought an NRF unit from parts in motion on eBay £256, the oe part number is 04L 131 512. Steve.

Hi probably the release bearing on the slave cylinder as it has no hydraulic pressure to keep it in place, its probably knackered which is why its noisy, how many miles has the clutch done. Steve.

Hi did you reprogram the injectors when you fitted them, and were the injectors new, the only other way to find out is scan the car for faults this will tell you whats going on, its not an airlock as once running the HPFP is self bleeding. Steve.

Hi it could be part of the heater matrix has collapsed so it might be leaking inside the car so you won't see it, check for moisture under carpets where they run along front bulkhead and above pedal box, if it was the oil cooler you would see water in the oil or oil in the header tank which manifests itself as little black dots in the coolant. Steve.

Hi I doubt its done any damage but if you have to do that put the car in first then start it, if the slave cylinder inside the gearbox is gone most likely that the master cylinder will need to be replaced as well as the pedal going to the floor will have overrun the seals on the master cylinder. Steve.

Hi in view of the age of your vehicle its most likely INA don't produce the belt for your car, therefore you bought your first bit of aftermarket in a badge engineered box which is what I have been driving at, they will put anything in a box with Audi on it and sell it at a much higher price, so as I said they don't design kits at Audis say so and you could have probably got the same kit for less on line. Steve.

Hi probably not, you will need a good set of axle stands and some sturdy blocks of wood to support the engine as you lift it enough to remove the old front mounts, there are a couple of good tutorials on YouTube. Steve.

Hi its no real drama but you need a four poster ramp and a pretty comprehensive toolkit, probably about two hours labour. Steve.

Hi its most likely the engine mounts and gearbox mount. Steve.

My daughters Q3 is running a Dayco kit and 20k and nearly three years later no problems, the only Gates logos to be seen out of dealer supplied boxes are Ford ,GM, Chrysler as Gates are an American company and their Gator Grip range is used by the military, I have seen multiple failures of INA equipment mostly because the bolts supplied tend to stretch and allow movement of components, the garage I use won't entertain INA anymore which is why I was alarmed at the logos everywhere on the belt kit I bought from TPS, I remember someone telling me once INA are owned by VAG which would explain their love of the brand. Steve.

Hi the INA belt is whats fitted from factory and is what Audi/TPS would supply as original equipment, there are those who believe that parts are manufactured to Audi specification which is a compete myth when you as I did take the kit out of the pretty Audi box [expensive] its got INA stamped on everything, mine is due again soon so I am going for Gates/Dayco much cheaper and from experience better kits. Steve.

Hi about four hours and about £100 for the part, the guy I use takes about two hours each way. Steve.

Hi buy the aftermarket part, loads of them on eBay so go fishing with the part number just don't buy the cheapest. Steve.

Hi the clutch slave cylinder is a gearbox out job, no other way as its bolted in at the back of the box and the radial/first motion shaft runs through the middle, only good part is you can remove the box without dropping the engine out. Steve.

Hi if the engine mounts have never been changed its probable they have become worn/split, they only last 100k max as a rule of thumb, also gearbox tail shaft mounts last about the same. Steve.

Hi Tony glad its sorted, you won't necessarily get bulbs as often the effect you got is caused by bad fluid that is well past its sell by date, brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water via the master cylinder cap vent and needs to be changed every 30k or two years this clears all the debris from the ABS seals and any water, I always use Comma ESP it isn't cheap but its very good and contains a corrosion inhibitor which helps stop the pistons seizing in the callipers Steve.

Hi head gaskets do not always put water in to the oil it is more the other way where gas is introduced in to the cooling system and via the exhaust gas escape water can get back the other way in to a cylinder, ask the garage to do a sniff test on the header tank, this involves !Removed! an adapter with a reservoir of the testing fluid to the expansion tank then run idle for 20 mins, the fluid will change colour if it detects exhaust gas, I agree with Steve a full scan is your best route. Steve.

Hi you won't get a pedal on the first push as the pistons have been retracted hydraulically and need to return to their protocol positions, other than that bleed the system, you should always stamp on the pedal a couple of times after brake work to prime the system preferably before driving the car, no ESP could be you have disturbed a wheel sensor. Steve.

Hi most probably is the ECU as there is no communication with the can gateway, try enquiring with ECU Testing they repair ECUs on most Audi models. Steve.

Hi ring parts inmotion and give them your VIN/REG and they will be able to supply the correct part. Steve.

Hi get it scanned and it will tell you the cause of the faults, if they are low voltage faults it could just be a duff battery. Steve.

Hi is there no independent garages near you, Audi specialists/Kwikfit are the biggest shower of thieving its on the planet Kwikfit are wary of doing anything that might get the workshop dirty and the other monkeys will try and create work, so suggest you get a third party to have a look assuming its conventional power steering not electric could be someone has unclipped the wiring to the sensor. Steve.

Hi if you can get the part number that should nail it. Steve.

Hi yes the new battery will have to be coded most garages have some sort of battery pairing facilities it just lets the charging system know it has a new unit therefore it won't carry on charging at the higher rate and kill the new battery, life is never simple and the same system has been on most cars since 2008 with the exception of the Mini one which up to 2011 you just threw the battery in and that was it. Steve.