Stevey Y

Hi Don if you can give me your milage and the codes that came up this time, I suspect that where the MAP/MAF situation was ongoing the car probably needed a regeneration which would be declined as the MAP/MAF not communicating would be classed as a major fault so the whole lot goes into default until the problem is cured I personally would give the car a forced regeneration after first clearing the codes [otherwise it won't do it] and see what occurs after that, did you do the adaption of the new MAF, I don't know what diagnostics platform you are using so am flying a bit blind. Regards Steve.

Hi you won't need vagcom to bleed them its as you say start at the furthest but I can highly recommend bleeding both at once as they will be on separate diagonal circuits so if you bleed them as a pair there is less chance of air swapping from one circuit to another. Steve.

Well done and you went for the pro pack, that will expand your capabilities as well as the facility to check once a month to head off any up and coming problems all at a fraction of the cost of VCDS. Its probably the best entry level set up I have seen for a long time and they are constantly updating the system, I have often thought recently of buying it but my phone is just about banged out with work APPS but I am rapidly thinking it might be worth an extra phone just to run that. Steve.

Hi Ann anything to do with a pressure washer and electrically operated things is bad news, the labour charge is reasonable, and as for the boot is it not opening from the outside/inside button or the key fob ? the clicking could be a dry C.V.joint or just a stone wedged in the tyre tread. Regards Steve. ps the new all electric cars are impressive until they go wrong and you are forced to use dealers to fix them I don't think anyone on here including me would have a clue about repairs.

Hi you can just buy the piston part of the calliper without the motor which is removable and it works out cheaper, yes Stark is a well respected parts manufacturer in Europe. Steve

Hi, no worries but once you have fitted the new MAP I would recommend doing the relearn on the MAF so they get to know each other again, wish you luck and success. Steve.

Its confusing, I see what you mean, my old Mondeo Titx sport diesel had twin exhaust one either side and they were BIG as the idea of that is to clear the gas quicker as diesels require virtually no back pressure, the petrol version had the same set up but the tailpipes looked like peashooters to maintain the back pressure required, therefore why cant you have a four pipe set up as it really wouldn't matter as its all about rapid gas evacuation. Perhaps it might be worth researching a custom made conversion if you already have the hole for the dummy pipes.

Hi sounds like a combination of DMF and release bearing noise but being as it gets louder when the clutch is depressed my money would be on the release bearing preparing to let go, either way I would change the whole lot before it goes terminal. Steve.

Hi sorry just hazarding a guess I didn't realise that Audi were going the same way as the Blue Oval cheap theatrical props to imitate a sporting heritage revisited, I can now see why you are so pixxed off with it, if I had paid what you have for that car I would expect the full Monty exhaust as well, sorry for the misunderstanding. Regards. Steve

Hi, when you say fake do you mean one side has visible silver plates in the tail pipes, if so I think you might find these open up when the car is being revved at high speed say on a motorway this is to allow the gas to escape more quickly and they shut down around town to channel the exhaust and the noise through the other side only more quietly in urban areas, I cant see Audi or any other manufacturer fitting a high quality steel baffle box that does nothing. Steve.

Cheers mate, I hope it pans out for you, the problem is its armchair diagnostic that has come from experience and sometimes I can get it wrong but can only advise on the info given I wish you luck.

Hi please let us know the outcome and include a video of the mechanic going purple if its wrong, be lucky Gareth. Steve.

Hi sorry for the late reply, the MAP is on the right hand rear of the engine it is quite easy to spot as it sits up on its own little bracket with a rubber pipe running up to it, your car has the same engine as mine so have a look on eBay for Audi part no 04L 906 051, that will give you an idea what to look for in the engine bay and if the part numbers match happy days. Steve. PS right hand rear when standing at front of car.

Hi, ask your mechanic if he has the equipment to do the readapting process try that first it is possible the previous owner did not do this, as you seem to report no other codes with regard to the EGR unless you have a flag for it leave all alone, it may be that if the adaptation won't work it could be a Chinese special from eurocarparts, educate your self and go on youtube and plumb in VAG throttle body adaptation and you will see what I am on about. Regards Steve.

Hi Gareth its the oldest formula in the book, familiarity breeds contempt, when you present the interlocked rings for their inspection you can almost see their eyes light up, you come across as a bright chap most electricians are, try the following as you are not a hostage but a customer, tell them you will get the bearing done another time but you now require to see a printout of their diagnostic reading and codes then check with the AA what their engineers code reading produced as he will have had to have submitted a report of the call out if it was a rail sensor as described present this to your garage and demand that they change that part before any others and if possible be there when they change it, you are paying for this so you should get what you want, I cant see as you cant realistically see how the AA with some of the finest kit known to man would get it wrong. Steve.

Did the garage or whoever fitted it readapt the new throttle via the diagnostics as if you don't do this when its fitted it will run like bag of nails. Steve.

Hi this sounds a bit far fetched, but the two code given are for MAF and MAP Sensors from experience I have found its the MAP that is the problem its information is not correlating with the information given to the ECU by the MAF sensor I.E. MAF equals air pressure and ambient temperature of the air going into the engine, MAP equals the air pressure and ambient temperature of the air taken in when it reaches the inlet manifold if these figures do not agree closely it will throw up high readings on the MAF as this is reading correctly but the MAP is probably full of grunge and cant read the MAF readings correctly so it sends a message to the ECU telling it that the MAF readings are implausible therefore it must be defective. Regards Steve.

Hi, sorry to point out the obvious but this stinks, if you take into consideration the car has ceased to run that would most possibly be the fuel rail metering sensor packed up, this means that the fuel rail is getting no pressure hence no running, on the flip side the only way injectors would cause that type of occurrence is if all four suffered catastrophic failure simultaneously and the chances of that are about the same as me becoming the next Pope. What has led me to this conclusion is that I have been using diagnostic software for years and if its a run off between the garages machine and the AA equipment its a no brainer, the AA use Bosch state of the art tough books which I am told by a friend of mine who is a patrolman are about twelve grands worth to the AA new, I once tried to buy one on eBay and fell off bidding when second hand it made five grand at three years old. Sorry I think the garage is pulling your chain, if it was just one injector you would have had an engine management light up a while ago and pix poor fuel consumption and extremely rough running they don't just pack up and even if it did the thing would still run on three cylinders, the fuel rail sensors are pretty easy to change you won't need a ramp just a suitable large ring spanner, if I were you I would be looking at the old sensors and get the part numbers off and go shopping on eBay thats my usual MO, as for the wheel bearing how the hell would they know if its knackered if you cant drive the car. Regards Steve.

Hi Clifford, the basic version of OBDEleven is about £60 which is no great expense under the general scheme of things as it is highly commended and performs a multitude of tasks it is also small enough to store in the glove box for when however infrequently your car goes wrong should you need it and from my perspective represents a massive saving when you consider how much it is just for a plug in and then they charge you more plus the part to fix it. With regard to people who know nothing about cars yes they do appear on this forum normally with a code at best and a hope that someone might educate them on the probable cause and possible fix, some of these people will have a desire to learn and help themselves in future and continue to contribute to this forum, others are looking for an instant fix which we all realise is impossible based on the lack of cogent information, they normally disappear after one post, some of the others will reply again so therefore is it not best policy to condemn their lack of knowledge but be patient and try and help them to help themselves, one of the most aggravating terms I have come across on any forum is the initial term, I am new to this be gentle with me, they have a problem and need advice, there are a good few forums this one being the exception where anyone who posts what appears to be an inane description is torn to pieces verbally, such are the vagaries of social media some people use it vent their own personal frustrations on others. Steve.

Hi Clifford I agree in principle with what you are saying in so much as back in the day a good working knowledge of cars was essential but you still needed things such as multimeters, dwell angle meters, strobe lights, but with the advent of electronic ignition most of that fell by the wayside, up until seventeen years ago I was in the same position, having to go to a garage to get the light put out and the codes read so at around £40 a time it was over a year becoming an expensive hobby especially when you considered the car was doing in excess of 60k a year, lateral thinking dictated that I went out and bought my own unit pre loaded with Delphi and Wurth software which although being generic was very good enabling me to things like forced regenerations and adaptation of new parts, after while I suddenly realised that what I had was good but did not go as far as deep interrogation or readapting say things such as BCMs which although not being replaced had started to throw up ghost codes as over 180k a lot of the modules storage space had become clogged with irrelevant information so if I cleared it back to factory settings it would start to learn again, to do this I had to download Forscan and get the appropriate interface it was not expensive and gave me a far larger scope. Move on to the Audi I got the VCDS software and again the right interface, this is another level i.e. if I had a wheel sensor problem not only will it show the Code and description of the fault but which wheel is dysfunctional and the part number for it how bad is that if I had the ABS light on and no code for sensors therefore you would have to assume that it is another part in the chain maybe a sensor which would throw up a U code, I agree there is a lot of misdiagnosis sometimes on purpose prime example being one of my friends VW Golf just heading for its second MOT and well out of warranty, the airbag light is on and on the pre inspection they plugged it in [Extra £80] and told him the airbag module had gone and it was£1200 to supply and fit, when I plugged in it said front passenger airbag connection open circuit or to ground so took it apart cleaned the connection and the light disappeared, that was a year ago, if you look at others on this site like Thomas G who have gone out and bought OBD Eleven and educated themselves as he has documented on this site recently, its saved him a fortune. Regards Steve

Hi Clifford I would be interested to know what you use when you get a warning light up on the dash?, the thing most people fail to grasp is that most garages are forced to use generic code readers as they have to work on a multitude of different brands of different ages, people such as Snap on and Bosch pay a small fortune for a licence to use a small fraction of each manufacturers diagnostic software which may or may not go in any depth of interrogation of the modules on any particular vehicle, therefore I agree that manufacturer specific software is indeed better. With regard to false diagnosis that is the prerogative of the unit user who may or may not have the ability to mentally work out the sequence of events that led to the fault occurring as the guy who I learned from once said, its cause and effect, you can spend ££££££ curing the effects but what you really need is the cause as if you nail that first time a lot of the effects just vanish.

Hi, unfortunately these do look like the light units have suffered some sort of impact. if you take in to account that the light manufacturers are using thinner ABS plastic it won't take a lot of pressure to crack them, the only really cheap solution is source some second hand units or live with what you have if its not letting in water. Steve.

Hi just jocky on to any fuse that is lower than 10amps and is ignition powered I did my one on the spare fuse station in the green boxed bit in the fuse box on the right of the steering wheel. Steve.

Hi, done some digging and come up with the fact that the only true sealed unit gearboxes were fitted to A4 models pre 09 this was dropped after 09 as it was not very popular with the motorist, Audi are now saying that all the units are FILLED for life which is rubbish most of them have one filter cartridge on the box that needs changing except in the case of the ZF version which has an internal filter as well which will involve the sump being removed, the box also uses two types of oil ATF for the auto part and standard gear oil for the bit with the cogs in it. Steve.

Hi the part number you require is 8V0 862 153B, this is the updated part no should you have a burning desire to spend about sixty quid with Audi, if you want to get it a lot cheaper go on eBay and use part number 4L0862153D they even have genuine VAG units for around twenty five quid, lets face it they all end up the same, BTW if you remove the trim its only one bolt holding the unit onto the filler unit. Steve.