Stevey Y

Hi please let us know the outcome and include a video of the mechanic going purple if its wrong, be lucky Gareth. Steve.

Hi sorry for the late reply, the MAP is on the right hand rear of the engine it is quite easy to spot as it sits up on its own little bracket with a rubber pipe running up to it, your car has the same engine as mine so have a look on eBay for Audi part no 04L 906 051, that will give you an idea what to look for in the engine bay and if the part numbers match happy days. Steve. PS right hand rear when standing at front of car.

Hi, ask your mechanic if he has the equipment to do the readapting process try that first it is possible the previous owner did not do this, as you seem to report no other codes with regard to the EGR unless you have a flag for it leave all alone, it may be that if the adaptation won't work it could be a Chinese special from eurocarparts, educate your self and go on youtube and plumb in VAG throttle body adaptation and you will see what I am on about. Regards Steve.

Hi Gareth its the oldest formula in the book, familiarity breeds contempt, when you present the interlocked rings for their inspection you can almost see their eyes light up, you come across as a bright chap most electricians are, try the following as you are not a hostage but a customer, tell them you will get the bearing done another time but you now require to see a printout of their diagnostic reading and codes then check with the AA what their engineers code reading produced as he will have had to have submitted a report of the call out if it was a rail sensor as described present this to your garage and demand that they change that part before any others and if possible be there when they change it, you are paying for this so you should get what you want, I cant see as you cant realistically see how the AA with some of the finest kit known to man would get it wrong. Steve.

Did the garage or whoever fitted it readapt the new throttle via the diagnostics as if you don't do this when its fitted it will run like bag of nails. Steve.

Hi this sounds a bit far fetched, but the two code given are for MAF and MAP Sensors from experience I have found its the MAP that is the problem its information is not correlating with the information given to the ECU by the MAF sensor I.E. MAF equals air pressure and ambient temperature of the air going into the engine, MAP equals the air pressure and ambient temperature of the air taken in when it reaches the inlet manifold if these figures do not agree closely it will throw up high readings on the MAF as this is reading correctly but the MAP is probably full of grunge and cant read the MAF readings correctly so it sends a message to the ECU telling it that the MAF readings are implausible therefore it must be defective. Regards Steve.

Hi, sorry to point out the obvious but this stinks, if you take into consideration the car has ceased to run that would most possibly be the fuel rail metering sensor packed up, this means that the fuel rail is getting no pressure hence no running, on the flip side the only way injectors would cause that type of occurrence is if all four suffered catastrophic failure simultaneously and the chances of that are about the same as me becoming the next Pope. What has led me to this conclusion is that I have been using diagnostic software for years and if its a run off between the garages machine and the AA equipment its a no brainer, the AA use Bosch state of the art tough books which I am told by a friend of mine who is a patrolman are about twelve grands worth to the AA new, I once tried to buy one on eBay and fell off bidding when second hand it made five grand at three years old. Sorry I think the garage is pulling your chain, if it was just one injector you would have had an engine management light up a while ago and pix poor fuel consumption and extremely rough running they don't just pack up and even if it did the thing would still run on three cylinders, the fuel rail sensors are pretty easy to change you won't need a ramp just a suitable large ring spanner, if I were you I would be looking at the old sensors and get the part numbers off and go shopping on eBay thats my usual MO, as for the wheel bearing how the hell would they know if its knackered if you cant drive the car. Regards Steve.

Hi Clifford, the basic version of OBDEleven is about £60 which is no great expense under the general scheme of things as it is highly commended and performs a multitude of tasks it is also small enough to store in the glove box for when however infrequently your car goes wrong should you need it and from my perspective represents a massive saving when you consider how much it is just for a plug in and then they charge you more plus the part to fix it. With regard to people who know nothing about cars yes they do appear on this forum normally with a code at best and a hope that someone might educate them on the probable cause and possible fix, some of these people will have a desire to learn and help themselves in future and continue to contribute to this forum, others are looking for an instant fix which we all realise is impossible based on the lack of cogent information, they normally disappear after one post, some of the others will reply again so therefore is it not best policy to condemn their lack of knowledge but be patient and try and help them to help themselves, one of the most aggravating terms I have come across on any forum is the initial term, I am new to this be gentle with me, they have a problem and need advice, there are a good few forums this one being the exception where anyone who posts what appears to be an inane description is torn to pieces verbally, such are the vagaries of social media some people use it vent their own personal frustrations on others. Steve.

Hi Clifford I agree in principle with what you are saying in so much as back in the day a good working knowledge of cars was essential but you still needed things such as multimeters, dwell angle meters, strobe lights, but with the advent of electronic ignition most of that fell by the wayside, up until seventeen years ago I was in the same position, having to go to a garage to get the light put out and the codes read so at around £40 a time it was over a year becoming an expensive hobby especially when you considered the car was doing in excess of 60k a year, lateral thinking dictated that I went out and bought my own unit pre loaded with Delphi and Wurth software which although being generic was very good enabling me to things like forced regenerations and adaptation of new parts, after while I suddenly realised that what I had was good but did not go as far as deep interrogation or readapting say things such as BCMs which although not being replaced had started to throw up ghost codes as over 180k a lot of the modules storage space had become clogged with irrelevant information so if I cleared it back to factory settings it would start to learn again, to do this I had to download Forscan and get the appropriate interface it was not expensive and gave me a far larger scope. Move on to the Audi I got the VCDS software and again the right interface, this is another level i.e. if I had a wheel sensor problem not only will it show the Code and description of the fault but which wheel is dysfunctional and the part number for it how bad is that if I had the ABS light on and no code for sensors therefore you would have to assume that it is another part in the chain maybe a sensor which would throw up a U code, I agree there is a lot of misdiagnosis sometimes on purpose prime example being one of my friends VW Golf just heading for its second MOT and well out of warranty, the airbag light is on and on the pre inspection they plugged it in [Extra £80] and told him the airbag module had gone and it was£1200 to supply and fit, when I plugged in it said front passenger airbag connection open circuit or to ground so took it apart cleaned the connection and the light disappeared, that was a year ago, if you look at others on this site like Thomas G who have gone out and bought OBD Eleven and educated themselves as he has documented on this site recently, its saved him a fortune. Regards Steve

Hi Clifford I would be interested to know what you use when you get a warning light up on the dash?, the thing most people fail to grasp is that most garages are forced to use generic code readers as they have to work on a multitude of different brands of different ages, people such as Snap on and Bosch pay a small fortune for a licence to use a small fraction of each manufacturers diagnostic software which may or may not go in any depth of interrogation of the modules on any particular vehicle, therefore I agree that manufacturer specific software is indeed better. With regard to false diagnosis that is the prerogative of the unit user who may or may not have the ability to mentally work out the sequence of events that led to the fault occurring as the guy who I learned from once said, its cause and effect, you can spend ££££££ curing the effects but what you really need is the cause as if you nail that first time a lot of the effects just vanish.

Hi, unfortunately these do look like the light units have suffered some sort of impact. if you take in to account that the light manufacturers are using thinner ABS plastic it won't take a lot of pressure to crack them, the only really cheap solution is source some second hand units or live with what you have if its not letting in water. Steve.

Hi just jocky on to any fuse that is lower than 10amps and is ignition powered I did my one on the spare fuse station in the green boxed bit in the fuse box on the right of the steering wheel. Steve.

Hi, done some digging and come up with the fact that the only true sealed unit gearboxes were fitted to A4 models pre 09 this was dropped after 09 as it was not very popular with the motorist, Audi are now saying that all the units are FILLED for life which is rubbish most of them have one filter cartridge on the box that needs changing except in the case of the ZF version which has an internal filter as well which will involve the sump being removed, the box also uses two types of oil ATF for the auto part and standard gear oil for the bit with the cogs in it. Steve.

Hi the part number you require is 8V0 862 153B, this is the updated part no should you have a burning desire to spend about sixty quid with Audi, if you want to get it a lot cheaper go on eBay and use part number 4L0862153D they even have genuine VAG units for around twenty five quid, lets face it they all end up the same, BTW if you remove the trim its only one bolt holding the unit onto the filler unit. Steve.

Hi Ann, if its the cam belt I would get it done ASAP as if that goes its game over, anything else please feel free to ask as thats what forums are for, as for another car, whatever else you get will be the same through experience I have found other makes just go wrong more frequently at least with the Audi you fix it and it gives you a lot more problem free motoring even as a cab I have racked up 60k in mine so far with very few problems as you cant count cam belts as a problem as with clutches as they are a wear related consumable. Steve 🤔

Hi, yes whats left of it, its definitely knackered have a look on youtube from memory there is a video on how to remove the filler assembly I seem to remember that you go in from the back after removing the side trim in the boot, I will have a look at my parts system and see if I can get a part number for you as I am pretty sure its the same part for most models, thank god for globalisation, if not I have a couple of good numbers for Audi recyclers who do mail order. Regards Steve.

Hi Ann, I am good at the moment work has picked up [ Cabbie], I have a 16 plate A6 Avant 2.0 tdi, thanks for getting back to me I am pleased that this has worked out for you considering the eye watering alternative costs, yes it will be a lot faster as there is nowhere near the restrictions in the gas flow on the exhaust which equates to about another 25 BHP only advice I can give you is don't use cheap fuel [supermarket] as it will start to smoke as the fuel has quite a lot of light paraffin in it to blend it down and we all know what paraffin smells like when burnt. I have in the past considered a remap etc but I have two MOTs a year and the council have spent a fortune on the latest emissions testing equipment an effort to weed us dodgy cab drivers out so I have to play the game to a greater extent but I still refuse to have Greta Thunberg as a pin up. With regard to your car pics I think you would be best served asking the administrators on this site to remove them which I think would be the path of least resistance and they seem to be pretty much on the ball, just drop one of them a personal message on their drop box, try the guy called Magnet he seems to be on here quite a lot and is knowledgable. As for the belt tensioner if you can tell me which one it is I will do my best to advise, I am glad you have become a winner and not remained a victim of the thieving garages that exist in this world. Regards Steve.

Hi sorry for the late reply, yes they can change the oil as the manufacturers have to have a hole in it to fill it up, Fords had the same idea but people got round it by sucking the old oil out through the filler hole and then refilling it, by now some bright spark will have found a way of changing the filters as well, as for youtube I must admit I have never looked at this problem but I will now and if I find any thing I will let you know. Steve.

Hi, first question, don't use supermarket fuel as that will clog the DPF faster than blinking, google in Hydra fuel products they do a very good Dpf cleaner for people that only do short journeys add that to the appropriate amount of fuel and go for a blast for twenty mins. The audio button is replaceable there is a video on youtube about how to remove the centre console with buttons, get a s/h one off eBay, with regard to the fuel flap if you look at it when open is the little black button still on the left inner, if so give it a good soaking in WD40 and work the button in and out, my button does it and thats how I cure mine its a rubbish design. Steve.

Hi maybe they have modified the screens pacified area to address a problem they had on later higher spec models your guess is as good as mine, like I said try asking the advice of the local Autoglass depot as they are normally very helpful and probably know the real answer to your question. Steve.

Hi by rocker cover do you mean the plastic noise shield?, if so clean the oil to and run the engine whilst looking at the injectors hold your hand flat just above each injector in turn if one is blowing you will feel the pressure and heat so be careful, don't try removing an injector unless you have to as they require a tightening sequence which you will need a torque wrench for the tightening of the foot that holds the injector down, this dictates the crush pressure on the new seal and above all a clean seat and surrounding area of the injector is an absolute must, I would say something is amiss as the whole injector area should be dry, also look at the injector feed pipe unions for diesel leaks as this will cause uneven running due to the fuel pressure being lost at the offending injector. Steve.

Hi well done the pictures are very helpful, the dots are not hiding the sensor therefore I think the only other thing it could be is that a new sensor comes with the screen and is bonded to it either thats faulty or they have tried to get away with fitting the old receiver unit, both must be renewed when replacing the screen, therefore I would say it still down to them. Regards Steve.

Hi if whoever did the brake lining change did it correctly you put the EPB into pad service mode and when finished you take it out of service mode as long as the pistons were not wound in mechanicaly it should of been ok as when in service position the pistons are retracted to the start position for the new pads, therefore when taken out of pad service mode the piston moves ever so slightly forward, a few thou to accommodate the new linings. The only things to check are if the right pads were fitted and were the stainless steel runners for the pads replaced. Steve.

Yep, and thats whats blind siding the rain sensor and making it think its being rained on all the time, the sensor works on the principle of rain landing on the clear part of the windscreen in front of it when the water reaches the level that it starts to cut the light level to the sensor it fires the automatic wipe function, I think you now have what is a pacified area with the dots which appears to the sensor as a major downpour, and yes to many. Steve.

Hi my guess is its the wrong screen, I had that problem with another car a few years ago and it is where the dots cover the sensor eye so it thinks that its raining permanently as the sensor eye is pacified via the dots, the screen fitted is obviously for another version of your model where the rain sensor sits further down the screen in a clear patch, I think this one is down to them so don't take any twaddle they serve up as those dots should not cover the sender, if I were you I would find your nearest Autoglass centre and get them to have a look just to make sure. Regards Steve.