Stevey Y

Hi Gents, pleased to report that I checked for the sensor code tonight, nothing it was a clear sweep so it looks like the cleaning of the sensor was worthwhile being as the code frequency was every two days.

Hi Ryan, I am guessing that they are talking about the inlet manifold and an educated guess would be that the swirl flap mechanism has failed, these monstrosities are a brilliant idea in principle, but being as on our engines they are cheaply made they tend to give problems as plastic limiters are fitted to stop the flaps from over running. It could of course be just good old fashioned gummed up manifold as this item has to deal with EGR gas as well as oil vapour scavenged from the crankcase ventilation system, I had this with my last cab which did not have swirl flaps but at 270,000 I had the inlet manifold off to clean it out the inlet ports were actually only using about a third of the port to breath the rest was black tar , the tar is caused where the EGR gas meets the cooler crankcase gas which has a lot of engine oil vapour in it which is hard to burn so it contents itself by forming tar. Ask them if they can run a scan on the car and see if it throws up any codes relating to the swirl flap mechanism, keep on with the updates as its all good info. Regards Steve.

Hi, thats the ticket please let us know how you get on as this will be solid useful information for others who may get the same problem in the future. Regards Steve.

Hi get yourself a copy of VCDS and the Ross Tech cable that goes with it, the start up cost can be high, software, cable, suitable laptop loaded with windows XP but if you intend to keep the car it gives you an explanation of the code and the O.E. number of the offending part plus the ability to code in the new part, you don't need an Audi dealer.

Hi Thomas, could it be the backplate rubbing a little where he wrestled with the hub during the bearing change, done that one a few times and then had to crawl under the car to pull it back a bit further which normally cured the problem. Regards Steve.

Hi, I don't think that the ballast modules have any effect on the high beam as high beam is commanded by the shutter systems within the headlight unit, therefore think it could well be the headlight range control module which if replaced has to be re coded to the car.

Hi Ryan, I don't think the Dpf ash level is your problem, as why would the car have run at all if the DPF is totally blocked, think about it Ross Tech reckon the max loading is around 45% when it should kick off its own regeneration, as I said the workings of the Audi are fairly new to me but I have in the past had plenty of problems with the last Ford I owned not regenerating because the vaporiser unit had failed and due to readings on Forscan I once had a loading of 220% which I got round by doing a twenty five minute forced regen whilst driving up the A12, if the car is static Wurth do a wonderful cleaning kit you can squirt through temp sensor hole, leave it overnight and then run the car to get rid of any residue, reset the DPF learned values and off you go. On cheaper cars the DPF core or cake is made of cordierite this is a very good filter but has a lower melting point when compared with the more expensive cars silicon carbide core, the advantage of this is that the manufacturers of these offer refurbished units at half the price of new and the only refurbishing they will have done is sonic cleaning. Audi diesels have no vaporiser units as they are post injection regenerated engines, this means that when the ECU receives readings from the DPF pressure sensor telling it that the soot levels are high it retards the timing slightly and over injects diesel into the bores this won't burn very efficiently but the heavily vaporised fuel is flung into the exhaust where it meets the primary chamber at the front of the DPF, this then combusts and burns the soot particles turning them to ash, during the regeneration cycle the the EGR valve is shut and I would guess Adblue injection is suspended as either of these elements would pollute the extra fuel which would in turn reduce the efficiency of the regeneration. Steve.

Hi Chaps, today was good as I decided to pack up work early and it wasn't raining, after checking that the orange ball in the sky [the sun] would not hurt me I have taken advantage of the extra light and hunted down my air quality sensor, it was surprisingly easy to find considering the lack of location information that exists on the internet plus the fact I am fed up with clearing the code for it which is intermittent but it stops a load of sub sections in the aircon from working when it throws a wobbly. The offending sensor is under the plastic scuttle cover just underneath the windscreen wipers, this is removed by simply pulling off the rubber strip that seals it off from the engine bay, lift the plastic scuttle cover whilst pulling it towards the front of the car, once removed all becomes apparent the sensor sits in a little plastic loop in the casting for the air intake, you have to twist it until one of the plastic lugs lines up with the relief in the loop, pull it at a slight angle and it pops out, the hardest part of the whole procedure is taking the wiring plug off, this is a proper little bargain hunter as the only way to get it off is stick a small electrical flat blade screwdriver under a small square tang at the back of the connector where the wires enter the connector, then a bit of persistence wiggling it off it pops. Being as my fault is intermittent I suspect that dirt/grease might be the cause so before replacing the sensor I have opted to give it a soak and light brushing in a tub of isopropyl alcohol and see if that cures it, ten pence worth of alcohol verses sixty quid for a new sensor its worth a try?. 20210218_160153.jpg.zip 20210218_160210.jpg.zip

Hi Ryan, thanks for letting us know the final outcome and posting the videos, good skills, at least anyone like myself can whip the cam cover off just to get a quick visual, to be fair I think I would end up giving it to a garage as removing the timing belt pullys is no simple task and you need an upgraded pin kit to lock the cams and crank back into position, the lifetime warranty is a real deal as you won't have to worry about it ever again, price wise take some consolation from thinking about what Audi would have charged to do the job at least you escaped that, take care and good luck. Steve.

Hi, I don't know about some other models but my A6 has no Adblue level read out any where on the MMI systems for servicing, oil level etc. my warning normally appears when I have 1500 mls worth left according to the tank monitor which is more than enough time to get it filled unless you ignore it, I cant because every time I start the car the warning message comes up with a loud ping which aggravates the life out of me so I refill as soon as possible just to get rid of the noise. With regard to the ghostly warning just keep an eye on it to see if it appears again, it may well have been an anomaly in the monitoring system and never do it again, if it was my vehicle I would just put some more Adblue in just to ease my mind. Regards Steve.

Hi Ryan, will deffo have a look at the video as when I watched my belt being changed it was from at least five feet away so I could not observe any fine detail and had to get a bit further back when the swearing started when a ratchet broke. Now have THE RIGHT and only part numbers for both sensors should you or I need them, believe me when I tell you one of the cars he showed me which they had just started on the belt even though still tensioned you could move it about 10mm up and down, I rang him today and he is of the same opinion as I am that there will be no detrimental effect on the engine😁. Steve.

Hi, get another engine I am sorry but however well they stripped it and cleaned it there is no substitute for a hot tank/ pressure cleaned block and a compete strip down and inspection of every part, pistons rings bores, cylinder head, valves and guides. In my early twenties a couple of my mates used to race cars so I sed to go to places like Burton engineering who were quite happy to show you around the workshop where the engines were rebuilt, their engine builders were fanatically clean and one explained to me that the slightest particle of metal in the engine could lead to component failure, especially in high performance engines, if I were you I would be looking at reconditioned engine with a nice fat warranty, job done. Regards Steve.

Hi, Ryan, 110,000 is the recommended change interval and I wouldn't mind betting thats why the previous owner sold it, you won't have a service booklet because they did away with them years ago, is all you get now is a piece of paper sent to you with the service history as far as they have serviced it, this won't include any independent or quick fit service history. With regard to any engine damage I seriously doubt there will be any as it still tries to run but subject to my conversation with William today if the belt has not been changed that could well be the source of your problem, you would be best served filling in whatever garage you use on what you think might be the problem as this always stops any ideas of padding out the bill if they think you know in depth what you are talking about, show them the scan results that will impress them, the best part is my engine is the same as yours and I will log what I have learned from this for any future problems I may have. Wish you the best of luck with this and please can you post the resolution on the forum as it gives good usable information to other forum users, and its been a pleasure talking to you. Steve.🤓

Hi Ryan. Hold the press I used my break today and go and see a couple of people and ended getting involved in a sensor tour of my engine, the Autodata did not pan out as it did not cover your engine and any late engine come to that, apparently you have to pay a massive subscription now and go on line, this has stopped a lot of garages using cloned discs off of the net. The second guy was pure gold he showed me where the G40 and the G28 sensor are located I even found out where the VVT unit was, he does a lot of Audis and VWs and started to show me data logs from some of his repairs at least four of them were nigh on the same as yours, so I showed him the picture of your scan he then proclaimed that I know what that might be and gave me a repair triage, from the top, have you had the cam belt changed recently as the guy has found through experience that if left to the recommended change interval often as not they stretch, they rarely break but will stretch quite a bit, case in point a beetle he had there that had come in with the same symptoms is all he had done was change the timing belt kit, cleared the codes and it ran like a Swiss watch he then showed me a new belt against the old belt which you could definitely see the difference. So he advised the following, have the valve timing checked not difficult as I watched him do my cam belt a couple of months ago and if you can find a decent independent garage they as he has will have the right locking pin kit. If the belt has been changed recently then the most likely suspect is the G40 camshaft sensor which is housed inside the cam belt cover the crank sensor is underneath on the right hand side rear of the engine when viewed from the front of the car. what you have there in the picture is a crank sensor as advertised but the other sensor for the cams has a wire and a plug unit attached, I will go back to my system and using the new info you gave me will see if I can get one definitive part number. As for the dealers don't worry about them they are all brain dead as I found out last summer when I bought two new headlight bulbs, they were adamant that they were D5S bulbs so consequently when I tried to change them it turns out they were D3S original bulbs so the new ones won't fit, another seventeen mile round trip to take them back and even when I showed them the pictures of my original bulbs they still said I was wrong and did not want to replace them because I had opened one of the boxes, I asked for a refund they refused that until I stood in the service counter and phoned Barclays to ask them to stop or recover my payment, they gave me a refund on the spot. Regards Steve.

Hi Ryan I am pretty sure the engine is the same as my 2016 Avant which makes things a little easier as I can use my engine as a realtime source for visual sensor hunting, all good information. the internet is a wonderful tool if you can sift through the information and find what exactly is relevant to your problem, if you read it all and believe it all like a mate of mine his death has been imminent for the last fifteen years, will get back to you tomorrow evening. Steve.

Hi pretty much bang on with it will go again thats because you cant flush out debris with the engine still bolted in the car, if you look at the picture of the sump pan there seems to be no signs of massive water/oil emulsification, otherwise you wouldn't be able to see all those bits of metal, if you look at the other pictures the damage appears to be caused by oil starvation resulting in parts that would not normally come into contact actually getting together, the starter is a byproduct of trying to turn over a partially seized engine. Think in your case it was just a series of unfortunate coincidences, I believe the oil pump started to fail and went terminal pretty quickly if you look at the milage that would be a prime suspect, also I have never been a fan of 15k services as they are a gimmick to make people buy cars, have you ever asked why oil turns black, yes its because of heat and other contaminants the main one being carbon from the combustion process therefore the longer you leave the oil in the more like grinding paste it becomes, my mate used to use old engine oil on the oxidised paint work on his old van, it bought the paint up like new and was very water repellent. Regards Steve.

Thats because it is dated and has a lot of non specific info. Steve.

Hi Ryan bear with me as these are pretty new to me but the principles remain the same, had a study up on the VVT system its the same as most manufacturers these are electromagnetic devices that use controlled oil flow to advance or !Removed! the valve timing via the camshafts, other manufacturers just the same thing but a more complex valve system like BMW the VANOS system, when these fail they cause performance issues, sluggish engine performance not a partial shutdown or other peripheral problems, vet units either work or don't and seem to have their own set of DTCs. So if you go back to your original post changing the oxygen sensor was a good shout as thats pretty close to the recommended milage change interval anyway, the glow plugs again good housekeeping, but subject to the latest scan information my money is still on the G40 sensor as its not talking properly to the G28 sensor, swapping readings hence the term correlation in other words the G40 is supplying G28 with no plausible information, anything to do with engine sensors will affect the engines ability to start a regeneration forced or otherwise. We need to know what engine code you have and the BHP of your engine, mine is 190 BHP CNHA engine, they seem to build virtually the same engine but with different horsepower and engine code denominations if I can find where G40 is hiding I am sure that may well be the answer the timing cannot slip. Regards Steve.

Hi Ryan, Boredom is a terrible thing, I have been sitting in the car playing with the laptop whilst waiting, right there appears to be two choices depending on which engine you have [usual bullocks] but the good news is they are not big bucks to buy, the downside is the diagram showing the sensors is showing them in a large white area with no indication of where they go, very frustrating, but I was talking to my mate who installed my VCDS and driver and he pointed out that the part no you want for the sensor will be in the description of the fault, that narrows it down and why did I not remember that, must be going senile, if you can throw in an engine code I can go down to one of my customers garage tomorrow and hijack his Autodata repair programme and find out where its located. Have a look at the fault code again and see if either of these part numbers throw up a flag, 03L 957 147A.or 04L 907 601. With regard to the sensor causing the loss of power and it cutting out, most definitely that is the cause as the ECU cant get its head round mixed signals so if the fault gets that bad it simply shuts the whole thing down or goes into limp mode, I had it with a Ford cab I had coming home from stansted one night, going through the lanes the !Removed! thing kept cutting out not good at half past stupid in the morning, so I nursed it down to the only garage for miles got the reader out and scanned it, it showed crank position sensor intermittent fault so after a bit of head scratching a bored AA man that patrols that area walked over and asked whats the matter when I showed him the scanner he went and got his big search light torch and we had a look. the fault soon became apparent as when idling there was a steady drip of coolant coming from the water pump and down on to the crank sensor so I bought an overpriced Bars Leak from the garage put that in the coolant tank, WD40d the sensor to death and made a run for home, if any sensor starts to break down internally the only answer is replacement. Regards Steve.

Hi Ryan I have an airport take out and pick up to do but I will get to it as soon as I get back and should have your answers for you late afternoon if thats O.K. in my line of work you have to grab what you can when you can, BTW the sensor we are looking for cannot block up as its a Hall sensor, [solid state] so like an ABS sensor it relies on a circular metal ring with teeth or a magnetic ring to function. Cheers mate.

Hi I think the G40 or crankshaft position sensor is probably located behind the cam belt housing but if you can send me your VIN NO I can check it on my ETKA system which will with a bit of luck throw up A. the exact location, B a part number, the reason the DPF is blocking is because this sensor is malfunctioning and the ECU won't sanction any regeneration because it thinks doing that may damage the engine, furthermore I would not recommend a DPF delete especially if the car runs adblue as your likely to need VCDS to keep putting out the Christmas tree lights on the dash, then there is always the issue of increased emissions. the DPF is under the cat on the left hand side of the engine and from what I have seen you have to remove most of the front of the car, you might be better served sorting the sensor do a regeneration and see how you go, other than that if you are still not happy try Terraclean. A man with information and codes, priceless...... Regards Steve.

Now your talking, I cut my teeth on most of those, Minis the bypass hoses and if like I did you tried to make them go faster you caused yourself a whole heap of trouble like idler gears shredding because they were not built to handle another 40 BHP, head gasket blowing constantly because the block had hardly any metal left between the two middle cylinders where it had been over bored to far. it was not until my friend an ex REME engineer suggested if I wanted fast its better to buy fast off the peg. So went for a mk4 Cortina 2.0 Ghia, after a while I discovered things like void bushes and half shaft bearings and the best one was the oil spray pipe for the camshaft this would block and total the cam and followers, this all led to no small skill with a spanner, I even bought my first torque wrench. This is what makes me smile when Audi do a recall and everyone starts flapping, at least they admit they have a problem Ford/GM will normally deny all knowledge and hope it will go away, unless you have ever owned any car from that era you will never really appreciate how good modern German cars are, I don't think many people bought Audis or NSUs back in the late seventies as the brand loyalty was always Vauxhall, Ford, British Leyland, my dad would have considered me a traitor if I had bought a German/Japanese car, it took a long time for this mind set to disappear, its been an interesting and on occasions happy journey and I learned a lot. With has really made me appreciate my Audi. Regards Steve

Hi, I have seen engines that look like the inside of a Hellmans jar but still run, if you consider that most oil pressure sensors only trigger at just under 2 bar by then you can safely assume its game over, judging by your pictures the big end bearings have had a lot of contact with the crank journals that is what has torn the chunks of white metal away, if you look at it logically the journal and bearings use what is almost an interference fit, this is to hold the oil between the the two this causes the oil to form a wedge which the two surfaces operate on in opposite directions, the holes in the crank journals and bearings allow the oil in and out and are designed to cope with the demands of higher than normal oil pressure. If the surface of the crank journals are even slightly scored they will compromise the the integrity of the new bearings, in some cases you could remove very light scores with a light polish, worse case scenario crank out re ground and oversize bearings fitted. I think the most plausible explanation is that the oil pressure dropped, which they have not designed a monitor for, therefore that caused the original problem what did not help you was the fact that there was partial deposits of metal in the oil galleries which then would have been pushed round in record time by the new oil pump, if they are suggesting a new crank I would say that they have worked out that the old crank was not serviceable in the first place, then there is the other consideration what are the pistons and cylinders like on your engine. Cam sad to say you only have three options, get your unit rebuilt by a reputable engineer, source a second hand engine, cut your losses sell the car as a rolling project then go and buy another car. Regards Steve

Hi John, its an absolute oasis in desert of OHM readings and re learning values to hear someone who knows about points and condensers and especially S.U. carburettors, I especially miss the old bar stool debates over which was the better version, S.U., Stromberg, Pierburg, and the universal condemnation of carbs like the Ford VV, all long forgotten thanks to fuel injection, these along with distributors were a work of art to any mechanical self servicing fanatic and without doubt a source of great personal satisfaction when you had just fitted a refurb kit and re tuned your carburettor with the aid of an airflow meter or colour tune, [remember them], then go out on a warm spring day for a blast over to a country pub with the girlfriend. Mind you can you also remember hanging out of the bonnet with your best clothes on with a small screwdriver or spanner trying to iron out some small flat spot while the girlfriend sat in the car chain smoking with a face like thunder, thats how we learned I suppose, thank you for the resurrection of fond memories. Regards Steve.

Hi to be honest it looks like a good old fashioned oil pump failure, the bearings look as though they have had a good heat up, I think at that point I would have scrapped the engine as with that amount of debris floating around the only real way of rebuilding it would have been to have it out strip it right down and have the block and cylinder head hot tanked and the oil ways steam blasted to get rid of every last piece of metal, any small pieces of metal hiding in the oil galleries will eventually come out causing catastrophic failure of the new bearings, if I was you I would source another engine because unless you have your one professionaly rebuilt its just going to keep on killing the new parts you put on it.