ninjag

Maybe the clutch release bearing and the higher torque associated with 1st gear? Although would reverse not also be affected? Hmm..

Meyle HD do a full front kit including drop links at a brilliant price. Certainly felt very good quality and I've had no problems since I fitted them last year. It's crucial to only lightly tighten when in the air then preload the suspension before torquing up. I think the pre facelift is M12 ball joints, whereas facelift has M14. Torque settings are different as well. It's at least an eight hour job and the pinch bolts can be a pain. A right angled air or power ratchet helps significantly. FCPEuro have a good guide on replacing them.

What engine size and transmission is in your car?

Did you do the fluid and filter change yourself or did a garage do it?

Could be a rear trailing arm/bush? A 4 wheel alignment should reveal an issue with non-adjustable areas.

It's pretty quick and easy to disconnect the EPB gear and check it out visually including manually operating it just as a process of elimination.

Mine opens on a long press as well. Wish it would close remotely though. It was the same with the Jaguar XF, but you could easily install the LR Discovery module into the boot and it would close as well, is there anything available like that for the Audi?

I don't think the red and yellow should be joined. The red and yellow will probably be the two live feeds, one will be for ignition-on only, which will need a switching fuse (or feed), and the other will be to run off the battery when the ignition is off (for parking mode) and will need a fuse (or feed) which is always live. The manual should say which is which. The switching fuse/feed is how the device knows when the car is turned off and for the camera to go into parking mode. When it detects the drop in voltage in the switching fuse/feed it will automatically switch to the other live feed connected to the fuse/feed which is always live. And visa versa. The black will be for ground.

I get what you are saying but I'm not sure they have me by the short and curlys because when it came to the transmission gear oil they didn't have what I needed, they only had 1 litre and said they would have to order the rest in. His argumentative and unfriendly attitude meant that I didn't want to waste my precious time and oxygen (and fuel) going back, so I went elsewhere and had it conveniently delivered. When I called the other place after ordering to see if I could get it promptly, they were more than obliging and sent it out straight away. I think from now on if I don't need it same day then I'll use the online place as I don't like having to justify my order to them every time. Besides, the new RS6 Avant is no longer in the showroom to drool over lol

Aye that's the place. Very helpful and ship very quickly. It's probably easier than finding the time to get to the local Audi during their opening hours, wait ages for their staff to disappear off into the back and also put up with their not always so friendly attitude.

Could it be the dreaded carbon build up causing a bad seal and low compression? Might also be worth checking your coolant, if you are losing any then it may be a bad head gasket.

The Multitronic transmission is a CVT type and I believe it has a dual mass flywheel. I think the part itself is about £500. It kind of seems from you you say is that before realising it was under warranty they were happy to take £1,000 off you without the head mechanic being involved?

I also thought as much, but I discovered that despite the full AUDI main dealer service history, the DSG fluid was not done at 40k miles. Apparently, it's a separate and discretionary service item and whoever had the car at this time was a cheapskate. I queried this with AUDI HQ and that the full service history was misleading to say the least. They basically flicked me away with their finger lol Aye for sure. I did the DSG fluid and external filter not long after getting the car at 60k miles and thankfully it's been fine. I've now done the rest of the 'transmission/front diff (final drive)/transfer' case today with genuine AUDI gear oil - !Removed! expensive. I was tempted to use Opie Oils but in the workshop manual it mentions that the AUDI genuine stuff has an additive for the transfer case so I didn't want to take the risk with third party. There was also a mixture of options from GL4, GL4+ GL5/GL5 and GL5 which again steered me back to genuine. I'll probably never have to do it again so for all the extra cost. The AUDI parts guy was giving me a hard time over getting the fluid, claiming it as sealed for life but admitted that this was 100k miles. They only stocked 1 litre so I got it online from AUDI in Wales instead. I also did the rear diff today using genuine fluid so that's all my fluids up-to-date now except brake fluid. I'll probably do it next year as the brake are still sharp as ever.

Just to follow up on this, I discovered when doing my discs and pads that the Autel Maxi AP200 will not wind back the EPB, however, the icarsoft CR2.0 will. There's also the manual method of course, but slightly inconvenient having to remove the two bolts to get to the motor.

I'll second a dyno and custom map. Probably also a good idea to use someone who knows the car so that the necessary components can be checked for good health before putting extra stress on them.