evopilot

Cheers for the reply Gareth, I'm actually a retired mechanic myself but i come from a Japanese brand dealership so im relatively new to the newer more electric Audis. I only bought this A6 to treat myself. Ive recently done the clutch with flywheel on it so thought id treat the box to new oil

Check your fuel trims on a diagnostic scanner and see if they are off (outside of +5% and -5% tolerance) indicator number 1, then secondly check the voltage on the sensors with the same scanner as the car i running and if the voltage is not fluctuating thats a secondary give away that a sensor is faulty

That type of diagnosis looks like the mechanic is diagnosing you ran the opposite fuel type meant for the car, ie petrol in a diesel etc or another containment was ran through the fueling system If thats not whats happened i would seek a second opinion 100%

anybody know what gearbox oil and how much for our cars? im presuming 75w 90 in a manual c7 tdi ultra? does anybody know how much id need to buy?

They also need to be paired to the car i believe, im not sure if this can be done in ODIS but i need to do it myself so ill post about it when i get to it

was it an AGM battery and did Halfords code this battery to your car?

I got one of these from my SnapOn guy a few weeks ago to troubleshoot these type of problems: https://shop.snapon.com/product/Portable-Diagnostic-Smoke-Machines/Smart-Smoke-EVAP-Machine/EELD500 If you can find somebody local to you that can run a smoke test the time paid to diagnose will save you heart ache trying to find yourself

Finally got around to removing the gearbox in my garage last week... the cause of the slipping was a failed slave cylinder leaking fluid over the friction plates and in the box itself causing issues. I decided to replace the clutch too while its all stripped out. LUK now have a listing on there website for our cars needless to say its wrong as my local motor factors found out. Flywheel is tired on my car but the clutch was relatively fresh with very little ware OCS105266L - Flywheel OCD141015E - CLutch/pressure plate For reference

if unsure unplug the sensor you think it is and start the car and see if the fault has changed to permanent instead of implausible, if its a new sensor giving a fault clear the codes with VCDS and move to the next one to repeat. That will help identify which sensor your looking for in a more manual way. Alternatively i recommend investing in ODIS and a cable and see what the stealer-ship see's

my wife was driving the other day and as we were going up the road she got a clutch malfunction you can continue driving warning and a flashing coil light 😕 ill have to conceed the clutch is going again, hard to swallow as its not long done.... i can only assume the person that did the clutch before only changed the clutch and not the flywheel etc. @Stevey Y have you priced the clutch for one of these in the UK? i am being told by all auto parts places over here its a main dealer only clutch kit, about €1000 for the flywheel and €600 for the clutch kit plus vat on both them prices too 😕

any warnings or pop ups or is the fault silent (no warnings etc)?

If its the clutch its the clutch it is what it is, ive just never experienced a random slip of revs in all my years with cars. With clutches going its alway been either 1. Clutch pedal drops to the floor 2. Albility to change gear with engine on stops 3. Clutch slips at a similar RPM each gear and would redline without gripping if you held you foot on accelerator So this is new to my experience if this is a symptom

This is a brand new OE master cylinder Steve, involved during sorting my older issue. The slip had started before that although i completely forgot about it then the F194 issue came in which includes a new cylinder from Audi and the slipping started again no more then 3-5miles into its first road test after fixing the previous issue 😕

the word redline is mentioned and you tip toe around "no offense" being smart then try to polish off with a joke... You have assumed allot with little to no facts. The car holds grip after the slip never once does it mention i hit the limiter once let alone "enthusiastically". Keeping a description short but on point is easier then stating 6543rpm or a point i change gear and cramming too much detail into a post

Manual but feels like an automatic gear change when it happens

also to add a little more information... It doesn't slip at the same rpm each gear its more random and sometimes it wont slip at all going through the gears

Anybody ever hear of this in a A6? Whilst accelerating say around 3000/4000 rpm or higher the car would temporarily slip/jump revs loosing acceleration for about 1000rpm then re-grip causing the revs to fall slightly only to then continue to pull to redline, also i noticed during this slip/jump period the screen between the revs and speed dials would loose the gear indicator. Primarily happens in 3rd, 4th and 5th that Ive noticed. There was one thread i found online from another forum which sounded like my issue but nobody replied to the poster. I don't believe its a full worn clutch slip for two reason, 1. In my past experience a worn clutch that was slipping would slip at a certain RPM and would slip revs into the red line without re-gripping 2. The clutch was done within the last 20,000kms No faults being reported on the car electronically

Anybody know where i can download navigation maps for the RNS-E on a RS4 B7

I see this is an old thread but... Any lights mate get her plugged in to see why they are on and start there, or better still get yourself a copy of VCDS and a cable it is a great investment if your keeping the car long term

Sorry for the thread revival but im curious as to what models of engine were effected? Or if somebody could link me to an article for further research too that would be great

Should be able to disable it with VCDS ive seen methods on youtube disabling it using VCDS but i do not know if the same methods apply to your model but might be worth looking into it

Looking to source a set of 4 mudflaps ive been told the C7 Ultra may have a slightly different shape due to the side skirts but that's to be confirmed, cant seem to find much online yet. So if anybody has a set for sale or a link to a retailer that can supply them i would be greatful

Not at all ask away 😄 ODIS itself and cable 5054 (older cable not the new shiny ones availbile) was about €400/£340 including the laptop The VAG test cables retail at €1300/£1100 each The VAG ecu pin out test box i am unsure of the retail but can be gotten on eBay for £100 I was able to source them in the end for €250/£210 all in second hand GPB prices are approximate for context My other costs to get to the fix separately were the multiple Master cylinders, a T30 relay and a second hand BCM ecu, by doing it my way in the end i saved an expensive trip to Audi. In hindsight i also saved the cost of a new engine loom already priced at a whopping €2029/£1650 including vat and whatever labor would have been to get to that point

i hope that someday somebody on the internet reads this thread and can hopefully use3 my information to not spend so long trying to source the cause of the problem 😄

So an update. Last week after a few weeks of searching i was able to source some genuine VAG diagnostics cables to work with ODIS I picked up VAG 1598/42 and VAG 1598/39 This then allowed me today to check the signals being received by the ECU which narrowed it down to a fault on wire/pin 44 on the 94 pin side of the ecu, the ECU was seeing voltage permanently but this should have dropped to a earthed signal once the clutch was pressed in. The culprit wire came out of the master cylinder on pin 3 then split into two parts.... one length went into the convenience module in the boot and the second branched off and went into the ecu at pin 44 as i mentioned above. Pin pointing that the convenience module was getting the correct signal i was able to narrow down that the trouble was after the cable splits and went to the ecu. I ran a fresh length of cable myself from the split to the ecu pin 44 and BINGO she fired up, gave the car the once over on ODIS and the error was fully gone. Nearly six months of the car sitting up in my garage and shes back on the road