Sid2020

It’s fixed and your happy, garage cocked up and owned up

I would start with the rear screen lines and attenna boosters that are fitted behind the tailgate trims also checking the wiring that passes from vehicle body to tailgate as it’s constantly flexing

That’s a good fix 👍🏻

I think you’re correct because that is a rare spec. Just remember to disconnect battery and have steering set straight ahead and steering angle sensor doesn’t rotate when wheel is removed and all will be good

You might be lucky and get away with a 2nd hand unit as the ones I’ve done have come complete with squib so that’s what likely has the component protection not the stork unit. The difference in part numbers relates to features like lane asist, cruise control, active cruise control and rear wiper. If the storks on eBay have exact features as yours then it should work

Yes 2 is squib ring/steering angle sensor

They come as a complete unit unfortunately unlike some other brands.

Makes complete sense, please let us all know what they say

My advice would Be to just get it done if you plan on keeping the car. Timing chain rattles typically turn really bad with no warning at all. From memory your chains will be at rear of engine so makes it abit more time consuming. I’d think 3 days labour start to finish. I would also change the water pump which is at the front of the engine as these a common for Leaking and easy to do while engine is out.

Do you have a fault Code as may help as there will be many different types of antennas on your vehicle

You may just be easier going to a dealer or TPS if you have a local one as there are many different versions depending on equipment level and they will advise using your vin number. The squib ring you need has component protection as I found this out when a customer supplied there own second hand

Wouldn’t recommend using a pin on the newer type washer jets as the spray pattern can be damaged easy

Could Also be the pump partially blocked as screen wash can build up into a gum like texture and block the gauze on pump inlet. Pop a pipe off one of the jets and give it a hard blow if compressed air isn’t available. You should be able to hear the bubbles in the washer bottle quite easy. If that is the cause then the bottle will need a good clean out as the blockage will fined its way back to the pump

All bolts that pass thru a control arm bush should be torqued to spec with the hub at the same height it would be if it was sitting on its wheels to improve ride quality and prolong life of the bush, wouldnt expect a major difference in suspension stiffness but worth getting slacked of and retorqued if in doubt

I would hope they have tested the module for a power and earth feed on the plug. Canbus can be checked for resistance or with a oscilloscope and all being good it points module having failed

That fault code and the fact they can’t connect to the module would mean a loss of 12v feed or earth or complete-module failure, canbus wiring fault seems unlikely as would expect to see communication missing faults in other modules.

Yes a calibration would be required if a sensor is changed, it ideally would be performed after changing suspension components as new bushes can change how the car sits slightly and a part of the calibration process is inputting ride heights for each corner

If I remember correctly Audi released a service bulletin for problems with the relay on the air compressor pump, gave instructions on removing relay cover and checking for burning or arcing that gave intermittent faults so might be something worth looking at

Found this, not sure it’s exactly the same as Factory handle but the one I fitted fits and works the same, picture quality exactly the same also

You would need to strip down the unit and find the component number and use a company like RS components to try to source a replacement. Another option would be a AliExpress handle with camera and either use complete unit or strip down for parts.

Can’t view video but if the tensioner is bouncing at idle but runs smooth if a slight throttle is applied then it’s usually the clutch in alternator pulley failed, these can be replaced without removing the alternator if the correct tool is at hand

Can only presume you mean the part number casting that’s usually above the exhaust port, after the numbers you get a letter. B supersedes A and C supersedes A and B and so on upto the designation that Audi are currently distributing

Modern keys have 2 types of function, if your key does not start the car when held up to the designated area then the graphite immobiliser component has failed which is extremely rare. This component has a preset code that cannot be changed and the cars ecu gets taught the code when keys are programmed in. the second part of the key is for entry to the vehicle, this is what the circuit board and battery on the key does, this works on a rolling code basis and can lose its programming but on many cars this can be recalibrated with special diagnostic tools. keyless start cars use the battery in the key to extend the range of the graphite chip and extra antennas in the vehicle pick this up. That’s why if the battery in the key fails you can still Start the car by holding the key close to its designated place. what function of your key does not work

I’m not sure about a particular year but the letter after the part number is a reference to what version you have, the higher the letter the newer the version so A would be first version on that engine and B would be a revised version and it just keeps going like that. When coding injectors the diagnostic tool usually just says 1 to 4 or higher if more cyclinders and you enter the individual code on cyclinder 1 injector into box 1 and so on, never seen a tool wanting them entered in firing order so may be worth redoing them, the codes can be hard to read so just double check you get them exactly correct.

I’m not confident in your independent either, for a crank pulley to just come off id say it wasn’t put on correctly, it also just wouldn’t drop off it would come off with a lot of momentum and possibly damage other items. And even if the crank was slapping around in the casing i would expect it to chew up the belt first and the knocking would be of more concern.