Sid2020

A few variants but hope this is helpfull

Fair points. when it cuts out if you press the clutch and wait a few seconds does the car restart as thou its been a stall as my A4 will restart itself without me touching anything else.

Reading thru the posts a common thread is that most cut outs appear to be when slowing down and turning and a general poor state of battery. If any members are electrically minded it would be interesting to monitor the amperage draw/spike as a slowing alternator with electrical steering input and batteries that don’t seem to ever fully charge for some reason could result in a shut down especially if it’s a result of poor ecu parameters. Just a thought as feel for you all

You may be in luck that it appears to be a part VAG sell separately, the photos below is of a A3 but would expect it to be available for a A4 also. Removing and refitting the camera on the screen usually stipulates a recalibration if following the text book but that’s upto yourself

Windscreens usually always have a small heating element built into the area around the screen camera to help with condensation. If you remove the trim around the rear view mirror you will Electrical plugs for the camera, rain/light sensor, rear view mirror dipping. You’re looking for a small plug that plugs into a fixing on the screen that appears to be a blank, this will be the heating element. Some manufacturers sell replacements but usually part of the screen

I would try unplugging it and scan again and see if you get a open circuit fault or something similar

Can’t say for certain but I would think it maybe the motor circled in the photo

Unfortunately moisture and modern LED headlamps don’t mix, on insurance damaged cars that come In our bodyshop that have any moisture present or been exposed to the elements it is usually automatically a new light and every module attached to it as it may be okay for A while but always fail within a few months. We even see fault codes stored for lights that visually are working fine.

I did look into it myself but just fitted the reverse camera as by far the most usefull

Have you tried a different phone, removed phone case or any thing else attached. When you place a phone on the wireless charger there is a handshake between the phone and the charger which determines if it’s safe to charge and how much power required and also when to stop charging. I’m unsure if this is all done in the charging mat and phone or if the charging mat uses a module in the car to help which could then also be a possible issue. Does the charging mat show up on a system diagnostic scan as I would think that if it does not then it is a self contained device with a basic power supply from the vehicle

I believe that a new module is required for front camera as it’s part of the 360 system that would add mirror cameras also, never came across a Audi with the wiring in place for this that doesn’t have cameras factory fitted, rear camera can be installed without any new module though

It’s possible you have a electric booster for your brakes instead of using a vacuum,

I would look between the intake under the scuttle trim and the interior fan motor. That would be a typical location the sensor you are looking for would be situated. Will be a very basic 2 wire sensor. -50 usualy means sensors has failed/disconnected or broken wire. You can use a jumper wire to quickly test for a change in readings to ascertain it’s the sensor needing replaced

Ideally you need someone who can look and understand the live data readings that a good diagnostics can provide and try to get the fault to occur while doing this to see what changes

2 types of auxiliary heating available, common was a electric heater that goes inside heater box behind dash that gives some heat until the diesel engines warm up, other option is a diesel heater that keeps the cabin warm when engine is not running, first type is most common and can’t see why this would cause a aircon problem.

Will Definitely need to Drop the bumper corner which is not to hard a job, I would source a 2nd hand light as while getting the headlamp Lense of is physically possible it is almost impossible

When was the last time you got it recharged, you might be right on the limit of ac pressure sensor shutting down the system, remember the system turns from liquid into Gas and back again so a change in pressure is inevitable

The clutch’s are pretty reliable

With the aircon turned on the aircon pulley has a centre section of the pulley that is controlled by a electronic clutch, it will operate for 20-30 seconds then disengage for 20-30 seconds, you will here a click when the clutch kicks in

How have you fixed this. you could swop ballast and bulb from side to side and see if the fault moves with them or remains in the same headlamp. If the fault remains in the same headlamp then it narrows it down either a wiring fault inside the headlight which could be checked easily, failing that it could be a signal fault from the cars module to the headlamp which would require tracing wires from plug to module

This is a example of what I mean

If you have the plastic tube in the back of the foam then it must be kept as it’s for the active bonnet. The foam is also there to protect pedestrians from the crash bar as part of the active bonnet system. Some older Audi’s had a thin textured plastic cover that covered the foam behind the grille so this might be a good option

I cans access your files but The evaporator is the main ac component behind the dash and changes fluid into gas to generate the chilling effect and is usualy silent, I have came across noisy heater boxes when ac in engaged but nothing to load. Too much gas in the system can cause a grinding noise from the ac pump at higher revs but this would be very noticeable