Sid2020

Had random problem occasionally over past few years where power tailgate would close, appear to catch but slightly pop a few seconds later, the tailgate could then just be lifted open. Couple of days ago the problem happened again and has remained, so I decided to strip it down. Found abit of a design flaw which while not permanently fixed it can be easily be reset to work again. Remove the plastic cover on catch secured by 3 Philips screws once open you will find a motor driving a long worm gear, on the there will be a rubber sleeve and a spring. the rubber sleeve moves along the gear and gets jammed preventing the spring working and jamming the catch open. just slide the rubber sleeve back away from the spring towards a section of the worm gear that is smooth it should then work again

update, clutch been feeling and working a lot better since master cyclinder and fluid change, gave it another pressure bleed during lunch break today just incase any trapped air or incorrect dot 4 fluid was still present, fingers crossed this is it fixed

If you want to replace this before putting it into Audi for a service the following should be correct for the varies b9 variants . We replace a lot when repairing rear damaged vehicles, there often installed to soon after cavity wax is injected into the tailgate or boot when new and it seals them.

They can become blocked with sludge on the doors but the tailgate should not get a ingress of water as everything fitted to it has seals and the rear window is bonded into place so something has failed

My apologies, for some reason I thought you had a petrol

Have you removed and inspected the diverter valve as different to a turbo actuator

Map/Maf just read my error

Quickest solution is to pop the tailgate trims off the inside, torx screw driver is only tool required and abit of gentle pulling of the trims. Ask a mate to use a hose on the rear roof/ tailgate while sitting inside with a torch, the leak usually becomes obvious very quickly but pin pointing the exact entry point can take abit of trial and error, we don’t use power washers for finding water ingress as the pressure forces water past seals that function perfectly good in the real world

I work on lots of different manufacturers so can’t say for sure about your exact model but the diverter valve is a common failing and usually the diaphragm inside it that fails and they throw fault codes typically to do with low boost or map/mad out of correlation, worth removing and doing a visual inspection

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience Steve, my pedal feels a lot better this time round, Just hope my slave cyclinder has survived the misadventure as don’t fancy taking the box out again. When my new clutch got covered in gearbox oil a old friend advised soaking it in full fat coke for 10 minutes to clean it, seems to have worked as that was 18months ago and of all my problems, slipping hasn’t been one

Master cyclinder fitted today, syringed out most the brake fluid in reservoir to save mess and also just normal Dot 4, pressure bleed using Comma Dot 4 esp/Lv fluid so time will tell now, got a few pictures of the mounting plate incase anyone benefits from them

Great tip Steve thank you, il be off out to get some before I start, looking back this makes so much sense, when I replaced the clutch the original master bleed fine but failed a few months later, replaced with Audi unit, gradually developed a dragging clutch and couldn’t bleed thru the master either direction, replaced with febi unit and exact happening again, pulled 2 of the failed units apart and what was obvious is that the rubber in the check valve had swelled preventing fluid from the reservoir entering the cyclinder piston, it was trapped behind it. this clearly didn’t happen to factory installed unit with 90k until I replaced the clutch and used different fluid and have continued to use different fluids since

My only guess is that as the Clutch pedal would be against the A pillar instead of the transmission tunnel so it must be mounted differently, the master cyclinder twists into a alloy bracket bolted to the firewall/bulkhead from what I can see so is likely this would be different for LH and RH drive cars

LHD version v RHD, longer is LHD

Sourcing hydraulic hose at this time of year has failed so reassembling it tomorrow, have replaced the main seal in the master cyclinder and fitted a new check valve which is the cause of not being able to pass fluid past master cyclinder and thus preventing bleeding, got the seals by ordering a LHD version at fraction of the price, everything seems a exact match except length of the push rod but this part is not being used. Il be bleeding with a pressure bleeder and will repeat a few times giving the peddle a good work out in between bleeds. Il update on how this goes

Totally understand, only raised the battery issue due to a previous post, I carry out electrical and programming/coding repairs every day as part of my job and often use the phrase @ im sure” instead of saying “i know” as it often comes back to bite, I know that the BEM battery code is a VAG system but wouldn’t rule out a another vehicle manufacture adopting the system, sorry for any confusion as only won’t to provide help or direction to users

The BEM codes makes it simple to setup, pretty sure its only on VAG cars as have never been asked for it on any other manufacture car. not all batteries come with them either

It’s not coding, it’s a basic battery,, it supply’s no information to the car just a live and neutral. your changing the parameters in the cars computer to let it know you went from EFB to AGM, would have also had amperage information needed, nothing to do with overcharging the new battery as alternator max output can be absorbed by the battery all Day, just like they have for years and years. The battery information is so the start start system has more information then just what voltage it detects. If you don’t supply the new information the car just doesn’t work at it’s maximum potential, it still works thou

Regarding new battery programming, a battery can not be coded to a car, it’s just a battery with 2 terminals, the process involves editing the cars software to inform the car what type of battery cell technology you have fitted and what amperage the battery is, when this is done the battery must be at almost full charge as this is what the software is expecting, this then allows the alternator and start stop systems to work at there optimum efficiency and measure the battery’s health

Had a customer come in with very similar problem years ago on a Renault megane, after probing wires and running every diagnostic test possible we came across that the engine ecu was temporarily disappearing from the can network when the fault happened. We sent the ecu away for repair and luckily that fixed the problem. Diagnostic tests on faults like these are hard as if the ecu is dropping offline it won’t log a fault as it’s simply powered down so as far as it’s concerned everything is fine, if your lucky other modules mainly immobilizer coded ones like steering lock/ instrument cluster and main body module will show a missing message fault

The fans will usually come on and off if you have AC switched on to cool the condensor regardless of engine temp, from memory I think it’s a serpentine belt off and alternator moved out the way depending on exact engine layout to change the thermostat. If you haven’t already done so it’s a good opportunity to change the alternator pulley as they are known for failing with age

Common Good practice is to carry out a pre repair diagnostic health check to A protect the garage from pre existing faults and B to give the customer pre warning to faults that they may not be aware of, I can see this from both sides that to put your car in for a new DMF shouldn’t result in a undrivable car being returned but also changing a DMF while a time consuming job is relatively straight forward. Are the Audi dealership that replaced you DMF saying that the previous Audi garage have a record of another fault saved against your car, if so request proof of this as it’s your vehicle should be accessible to yourself upon request

So pin 1 is a earth and pins 2 and 3 are live feeds for the bulbs and missing pin 4 is redundant on this model of car, have you check that your getting a feed to each bulb and a continuity check from the earth track to a ground on vehicle chassis

So the black and white wire going into the plug doesn’t have a contact connector inside the plug and the bulb holder has no pin either, never seen thing that’s the case and would suggest it it possible it’s corroded and arc’d to the point there missing as the wire would need the connector on the end to hold it in the plug, could strip back the wire and jump a lead from the wire the the track on the bulb holder and see if that solves your problem

Just make sure you reset the system in the mmi everytime you change the tyre pressures but yes your right the rear will now rotate ever so slightly more then the front at high speed on a decent drive , the system is very clever as takes readings from the steering angle sensor to compensate for for the differential in front wheel turning rotation.