spartacus 68

That's unfortunate. Did you verify the mileage with a additional check through Car Vertical or such like. That might be worth doing, just to see if there's been accident damage in the past. Seems unusual for prop shaft bearing to go at just 60k, unless this car has been subjected to some abuse. There's also VAG Technic - they are based in Dudley and know Audi inside out, so you could get second opinion there before you start stripping out gearboxes.

Might be leaking rocker cover. Assume 2.0TDI? Check the rubber seal on the oil filler cap. Clean up the oil misting with brake cleaner and watch for any further signs. Hasn't been serviced recently - as in oil spill on refilling?

No reason t go to Audi, you're looking at £200 a hour plus they will probably run a diagnostic scan, so you're probably best part of £350 and they won't have lifted a screwdriver. Search out a Bosch electrical technician or fit a new relay. Double check part: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/4H0951253A/skoda-4h0951253a-relay

In my experience, using bushes is only cost effective if you're doing the work yourself. As you mentioned, labour is the killer. For convenience, replacing the entire arm is the way to go. The suspension arm needs to be completely removed, the old bush pressed out and the new one pressed in. On lower arms, some vehicles may have hydra bushes fitted (filled with a liquid). Once it's all done, the vehicle tracking geometry should be checked. Personally, I'd have chosen a random MOT centre and put it through. You might get some disparity between the two checks, but it should be minimal, as the garage's MOT certification is at stake, so it's in their interests to be honest and impartial. Visual inspection is only part of it, the tester should put a pry bar on those joints to check for flex.

Long shot, but check out LLL parts and look at parts diagrams for your particular model based on the work done, or register with erWIN and pay to view. You can download relevant information, so its not wasted.

Avoid the roof lining. Having had the roof lining down on my old B8 A4, I know my way around. The interior as Matt mentions is easily marked. You need a special tool for the interior grab handles, assuming you don’t break the clips or they ping off. If you do go down this route, disconnect battery at least 30 mins before attempting. There’s airbags behind A pillar and curtain airbags. The B Pillar trim is straight forward, but it’s things like rubber door seals.

Could be anything. Not all OBD readers are the same. Needs a full VCDS scan. Could even be battery related.

Speak to Audi parts and just order via them. Oil is the most expensive item, but you know will be correct specification. Autodoc are hit or miss once it gets this specialised.

Not related to A3, but B9 A4. This is a great video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4u2n1RIkcY I’m planning to do this later this year on my A4 Allroad over a weekend. Have genuine camera, access to VCDS and know my way around trim removal after coming from a B8 where the panoramic sunroof was normally in bits. The other option, and something to consider is to consider buying access to ErWin. If specialised coding still required, and I’m hoping you don’t need it, then main dealer will have access to ODIS software. From memory, Audi main dealer wanted 8 hours labour to do this job. Good luck.

Modern cars are very susceptible to energy fluctuation, so a battery on the way out will throw up all sorts of errors, never mind cold cranking amps to turn the engine over. Sometimes it’s not just starting the car, but the battery under load. As mentioned, it does need coded. Get the best you can afford, likely to be AGM.

Not sure if you can find a smoking gun so-to-speak. VCDS scan would be diagnostic tool of choice, and if error was previously logged but DTCs were not cleared, then that historic data will be there, including instances. I think that’s remote, but never say never. I assume this is brake servo pressure sensor error? Audi onboard computer says keep driving but seek service centre. Reality is that damages ABS as you’ve found out. Other avenues, speak to Audi to see if fault was previously logged with them on digital history. For VCDS to purchase, check out RossTech via Gendan. More details here on issue via Dave Sterl.

Probably blocked EGR valve. Code is P2002. If it’s under warranty, I’m assuming this is not main dealer but independent garage. Blocked EGR valve not necessarily reflective of previous owner, but start stop short run journeys won’t have helped. If EGR doesn’t sort it, then you might need DPF flushed. Full VCDS scan will reveal more as it could be a DPF pressure sensor or blocked AdBlue injector. To be honest I’d investigate further and check air intake manifold. The garage in question will need to spend a little time on labour and a gasket, but that’s belt and braces approach.

We’re not talking main dealer here. Jeez, they pick up on worn wiper blades! At 100k miles you are going to have suspension related issues at some point. Check service history for what’s been done to date. Meyle HD or Lemforder, torque with weight on vehicle. At the very least I’d expect this to show up as an advisory on previous MOT. You’re right to challenge it.

£4k, that’s daylight robbery. Get the car recovered from the main dealer to a trusted Indy. Main dealer labour will be expensive, and depending on the actual turbo, then this company are supplying new stock that Audi would basically fit, whether Garrett, etc. https://turbo-diesel.co.uk/audi-q5-turbos/ Importantly, the oil feed line needs to be renewed, insist on it, as the union nut weeps. In addition, new gasket on exhaust manifold. Oils and filter change as a matter of course.

You need a full VCDS scan first, then you can see the specific error code regards engine management light. This could be a wire break, which is an auto-electrician job. Removing the bumper, takes 30 minutes - so don't be freaked out by that. Dash out is a different ball-game and I personally wouldn't entrust with anyone other than a specialist (non main-dealer). Working clean, space in workshop, anti-marring tools, etc.

Take a photograph of the build sticker, normally located in boot in spare wheel well next to space saver. Try the site https://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx Type in codes followed by ; and [space] to separate. Codes will have numerical 0, not O for Oscar.

Forget all-season tyres, even full winter tyres are no match for ice. Throw a few bags of sand in the boot - pity it's not a quattro. Studded tyres are illegal in the UK anyway. I would still change the gearbox oil. By all means check the drained oil, but after 200k miles, go on the assumption it's original. Nice working space by the way. Also worth brushing up on your knowledge of low-emission zones in Sweden. Like anywhere in Europe - their transport infrastructure will be excellent, so leave the car if you need to head to some of the big cities.

No experience of that box, but speak to Darkside and see what they suggest. Does the car have DriveSelect? What I’ve read suggests leaving the car in dynamic mode to get the best from the engine and gearbox.

Speak to Audi direct. It will be GL4 or fully synthetic GL5. Takes about 2.3 litres, probably 75w-90. Always release the fill plug before releasing the drain plug. On the subject of bushings, any knocks or clunks, deal with them here. Usual suspects are upper arms, drop links and ARB bushings. Fit Meyle HD or Lemforder. Budget for a full set of winter tyres. Can recommend Kumho WinterCraft tyres. As recommended, change your antifreeze. Timing belt is due every 60k miles or 5 years. Include water pump, tensioner pulley and genuine thermostat. No fun braving a winter with a dodgy thermostat. Headlight conversion kit too.

The B8 used to have a sunglasses holder, trouble is they only fit the likes of Ray-Ban and not your average set of Oakleys. On the B9 I suppose you could get a felt pouch for where the charging point is, or better still - does your car have the storage compartment on the right-hand side. It's possible to retrofit.

White worm corrosion, so lacquer lifted and oxide corrosion on the alloy. Certain acid-based wheel cleaners are known to be too aggressive, especially if you don’t wash the car yourself? Couple of options, get them diamond recut, can only be done couple of times, or opt to get them powder coated. Powder coated is more hardwearing. Another option, and probably more expensive is get a winter set of wheels. Road salt kills diamond cut wheels! So use them during summer only and wash by hand with a neutral PH shampoo and avoid car washes or drive throughs where you have no idea what’s being used.

Not aware of any issues with C8 platform. Biggest thing is budget. 50TDI (3 litre) Quattro models are paired with 8 speed Tiptronic unit. These are regarded as bomb-proof. Gearbox is sealed for life, but in reality a gear oil change at 80k miles or 8 years is recommended. 40TDI (2 litre) comes with 7 speed S Tronic unit and needs serviced every 38k miles. On both cars, if I was doing high mileage, then Tiptronic box is the one to go for. That will eat up the miles. In addition, avoid long service regimes. Change oil and filter every 8-9k, which in your case is every 6 months. Extras I’d be looking for as standard given £40k + spend, LED Matrix headlights, rear view camera, adaptive cruise.

Never driven a 35 TDI (163PS) but sounds like it’s paired up with a 7 speed S Tronic box? There’s not many garages I would trust with modifying or remapping a gearbox. Obvious choice would be Darkside Developments (Barnsley). If it is the S Tronic unit it’s due a service every 38k miles. In addition, check with your insurance as remapping will be classed as modifying.

As far as I can see the PDC control (situated on right hand side in boot has part number 8P0919283D). The last letter may change, depends on versions. Double check yourself. It could be anything from broken wires, rather than a defective unit. This part new from Audi is £158, but quick check on EBay, they can be had for as little as £18. Ideally you want to scan the car with VCDS as it will pinpoint the error. More details here regards part search. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3/412/9/919/919020

Audi cut-backs. On cars with xenon headlights, then yes they are fitted as standard, however on cars they moved over to LED headlights and became option only. On cars with old school halogen - then there's no requirement for wash. LED Matrix will have headlight wash. Other cutbacks include removing oil level dipstick (moved to MMI display), reflectors instead of door open warning lights