jdragon

I had the start of similar in my A4 B8 diesel manual gearbox at around 140k miles.

The garage I take my cars to poured a bottle of Slick 50 in there and the noise went away, and didn't return.

I sold it at 243k miles and still no issues.

Worth a try.

To remove the inevitable shine from leather, I use a magic sponge very lightly and wipe dry with an ordinary towel.

I've used a couple of different products over the years to protect the leather, but they've finished with a shiny look.

My question is, has anyone used a product to treat/protect leather seats that doesn't leave them looking shiny?

And now the huge silver trim has been covered 😎

In my opinion, it looked out of place running off centre through the middle of the car

I considered doing this for my A5 B9 but discovered Android Auto (or Apple Carplay for the others 😄).

Works seamlessly with Google Maps.

My friend bought a 3rd party box for his A4 B8 that essentially adds the Android auto function to the MMI.

I'd second what magnet has suggested, and report back as part of key programming can be done with VCDS.

2 hours ago, Steve Q said:

Looks great! Might be worth seeing if there's a market for it 😉

Hahaha well, if anyone would like to try it out I'd be happy to print one out if the postage is covered.

One of the first things I noticed about the A5 interior was the gap from the front of the arm rest and the edge of compartment underneath, so I decided to do something about it with a 3D printed effort.

Quite pleased with the outcome - I might tweak the width so it's closer to parallel with the sides but that can wait.

Thanks guys.

I've asked the question re coding on Ross-Tech and will follow up with the outcome.

The headlights only work when the dial switch is on auto, and they have been told this module is the cause.

I'm only supporting this activity with my VCDS

Thanks Steve.

Do you or anyone else know the procedure?

When replacing the HRM 5M0907357G is it simply a case of swapping it, or is there any coding required?

1 hour ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi my fault forgot to put the 1 in front of the 21,500, I will let you know as soon as I come up with a suitable catch tank as some I have viewed have an immediate design flaw as there is a vent on top to relieve pressure/fumes but are a primitive design and will also allow air in after the MAF which will cause no end of problems as its just like having a built in air leak which will promote excessive regenerations thus knackering the DPF in record time, I wish both our engines were as simple as the A4 but unfortunately the SCR system is a whole new ball game, you have to do the research before indulging in any mods to the existing system, just been looking for them on the net. My engine is a CNHA but believe me they are very similar with only subtle differences.

Steve.

Steve.

I sense a new thread coming on this catch tank topic 😎

The VAG specialist firmly advised against doing an AdBlue and/or EGR delete. They said it's ok initially but when you hit the 15k mark, all manner of problems occur because the system runs hotter.

1 hour ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi I am up to 21,500 and no sign yet although I am considering changing it as I have heard good reports of extra power and drivability, got a seven hundred and fifty mile round trip in mid June so I will be making my assessment from there, yes we have gone from Euro 4 to 6 in about fifteen years and in saying that the EGR technology has improved in leaps and bounds but we still live with the problem of the sticky tar that is produced by the crankcase ventilation system I am currently researching the benefits of a Catch Tank system which apparently removes 90% of the water vapour and a lot of the engine oil solids, the only pain is draining it every week.

Steve.

21,500 isn't a lot. Changing what? The EGR valve/cooler?

My A4 always ran better after I had cleaned the EGR valve.

How's your other car running with 120k miles? I think you said that's a DETA like mine.

Do you have a link for the catch tank system?

Understood, thank you. Hence the name Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve.

It's appalling 😄

All being well I'll get more than 70k miles out of the next one.

12 minutes ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi your regeneration intervals are spot on, with regard to the adblue its not made of pigs urine which would require vast amounts of purification before use, its made of a component in the fertiliser industry which when mixed with de ionised water creates a synthetic ammonia, when subjected to extreme temperature the greater water element turns to steam and along with the ammonia turns the nitrogen oxide particles, Nox 1 into a inert particle Nox 2 which degrades rapidly in normal atmospheric conditions.

Almost all the branded adblue sold in todays market are the same and unlike fuel do not suffer with blending differences, the consumption of adblue is very dependent on fuel/oil quality I.E. if you use supermarket fuel and cheap engine oil the regeneration factor will be increased as the amount of soot produced by both is accelerated and the DPF blocks more rapidly as the soot particles will be larger and physically more dense, therefore if you use good fuel and any Quantum spec low SAPS oil you are safe, with the additive going into the fuel as long as it has a Cetane booster that raises the burn quality this promotes much smaller soot particles which burn of more comprehensively from the core filters on the DPF.

Steve.

Superb explanation as always, thank you. 

The only diesel I use is Esso. And i'm using the Archoil now instead of the Millers.

Oil is either Comma Prolife 5w30 or Castrol Edge 5w30 ll. I typically change oil (drain from sump plug) and filter every 6 months, which is usually around 8-10k miles.

What are Audi referring to as "reducing agent" and if it's the AdBlue, how is that even getting back to the EGR cooler???

5 hours ago, Envy said:

Not sure how DEF would directly affect EGR as it is applied in the DPF way down stream in the catalytic process. I presume ineffective regen of DPF and subsequent blocking could result in backup of particulates but this would normally be flagged by more frequent regnerations.  

That was my thought, however the Audi TSB suggests it is, along with a special driving profile which I assume means short runs.

How frequently should a DPF regen occur? My research indicates ~300 miles, and I'm seeing this around 280-320 miles.

TPI_2050077-7.pdf

Turns out they are much the same:

https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/460/

I've recently discovered Meguiar's G15812EU Ultimate Black Plastic and Trim Restorer which, I have to say, is actually very good. I used it on my old A4 before it was handed over to the new owner around 4 months ago, and the plastic still looks great. This product is also for use on rubber, but I'm not overly fussed about looks, more just preventing degradation issues as they age (which this product likely does anyway).

However, does anyone care to much about treating the window seals, and what do you use?

In my experience, 'open circuit' can mean anything from a broken wire to quite simply a failed component. Or maybe I'm thinking of 'short to ground'? 😕

Reviving this thread for any recent views on which type of AdBlue to use, especially with it being a contributing factor to the dreaded EGR cooler blocking aka P2002 00

My car specifically is A5 2.0 190 Ultra (DETA).

Interesting read. What is the fault code?

Out of interest; what were you sold as the benefits of the AdBlue delete? And the consequences on the rest of the system?

Steve is right, the EGR cooler is likely at fault here. Your soot values are a little higher than mine, but the limit is 80g for the A5.

Don't keep trying to force the regens, because you risk cracking your DPF.

Before you worry too much, I'd attempt a G450 sensor adaption and monitor for a few weeks.

Not forgetting the Cataclean treatment!

If I were doing this, I'd either look at the other wing mirror and take one of the screws out to see if I had something similar, or see if erWin manual lists it, or lastly phone Audi parts.

1 hour ago, coupe4 said:

hi jon,thanks for all these tips ,there very helpful as ive purchased the vcds only lately so ill have a fiddle around with it at the weekend.thanks again.greg.

It's a great tool. I originally purchased it several years ago to code a new battery on my A4 B8, and I've since learned by reading posts from other people's experiences.

There's a lot of questionable info regarding coding, especially the battery change on the A4 B8s and A5 B9. However be assured what I've posted is 100% working (apart from turning of the super annoying 'engine running' alert 😄).

And this is my way of paying forward, so thanks for the response. Google search captures most, but the Ross-Tech forum is definitely the best place to start.

I'll check it out 😂