jdragon

Sure, but you've changed the MAF sensor and still have a problem. Coil light typically indicates glow plugs. 

If you have/know anyone with a multimeter it's a 10 minute job to check them.

You'd need to check the battery Amps 

It was worth a try 🙂

The reason I suggested is that when my friends A3 (2011 model) was ready to be replaced pretty much every light came on in the car as a result, even after replacing the battery. The local garage did a manual reset and everything was OK after.

Seems very strange VCDS won't communicate with the car. I'd start a thread about that and post a scan (if you have one) on the Ross-tech forums to see what feedback you can get.

Have you checked the alternator? Perhaps taking the car to an auto electrician is the next step?

Glow plugs?

Google "how to reset audi ecu"

There are several ways, I wouldn't like to suggest one over the other 🙂

If the starter is turning well, I'd try manually resetting the ECU 🙂

Reposted here

On 8/25/2022 at 8:48 PM, Stevey Y said:

I would like to point out that its two different models with two different size wheels and definitely different brands of tyres that are experiencing the same sort of problem, because my tyre pressures are checked every ten days by my local tyre supplier who's inflation devices are calibrated every month I have total faith in their accuracy, this is rubber stamped by the amount of miles I get out of my mid range tyres, so far 26k rears and 8k fronts half worn which on a cab is legendary, on Vinces advice I have always run the pressures at two pounds over pressure cold 38 pounds rather than 36 as this equates to an expansion rate of 42 pounds for motorway/loaded work but has the added benefit of not allowing the edges to wear prematurely because of wall roll due to frequent cornering, this advice comes from a tyre shop where the owner has over forty years of experience, [Hands On] and has a vast experience of many tyre brands and will tell you whats good and whats not even to the point of recommending a cheaper tyre over a top end tyre because I would get better milage for my type of work, thats why he has had my business for twenty years, I am in no doubt that many other Audi owners will have had the same problem and never noticed, most people who use these vehicles don't know a lot about steering etc, its just a lovely form of transport and the only time they ever get really alarmed is when something goes badly wrong, you said it yourself the car tries to tell you something, most ordinary owners only notice when whatever it is fails, I wish I had the time to have a schematic drawing of the boot and weigh each suitcase to place them in the precise location for optimum load level but I just use the old formulae heaviest/biggest over the rear axle and cabin luggage at the tailgate end, loading and tyre pressures have already been worked out before the car is sold to the public as have the wheel cambers and steering/suspension bush deformation rates under Max/Minimum loadings, which only leads to one conclusion its the road surface, same loading on tarmac does not produce the same results as ancient crumbling concrete.

Steve.

Your approach to loading and safety is worth recognising. You'd get on very well with the guys from the company who manage our airport runs. 

On 8/23/2022 at 8:19 AM, jdragon said:

I'll be on the M25 in a couple of weeks, and will report back.

So I did the drive. Car was loaded with me and three others at around 420kg combined mass, plus short stay luggage in the boot. No handling issues to report 🙂

DVLA thought my previous B8 was an automatic 😀 

Have a look at the thread 8 down in this section. 

Had similar in my previous A4 but left it because it didn't make any difference to the AC

In your case, it depends which motor has failed. I think there are five, and have varying levels of complexity.

I'd also reconsider your "specialist" and look elsewhere based on that assessment.

I like this method of checking the battery: leave the car unlocked and bonnet open (preferably overnight) and measure the voltage across the battery terminals. Check against this table.

If you have VCDS, the measured voltage can be compared with that too.

5 hours ago, Redsfan2008 said:

Hi, sorry it’s been so long letting you know. I had too much fuel in the car and had to use it before putting the cataclean in.  I have now used the cataclean and the difference is quite remarkable. Much smoother at idle and mpg is better too. Good advice thanks. I intend to use a bottle about every 3 months. Cheers. 

Glad you have seen an improvement. I passed that little gem forward from @Stevey Y

The next thing I was going to suggest was giving the MAF sensor a clean with the stuff from Liquid Moly. This too made a huge difference to my previous car, when I had nothing to go on from the scan.

I'd also recommend using Archoil fuel additive.

Might be worth checking the glow plug caps are well seated too.

Sometimes problems can be resolved by the most simplest interventions.

To give an example: abs light came on my in-laws dash. Garage quoted them £400/1000 to fit a used/new part respectively.

After a little Google and 5 minutes looking at the car, I discovered it was a blown fuse.

Run a bottle of cataclean through it. Quickest and cheapest option right now.

And be sure to drive it until you're display is showing 50 miles left, so it takes more through the system than the recommended 15 minutes on the bottle.

Report back the outcome.

3 minutes ago, Rimmy said:

Brand new. But it couldn’t be the battery if both battery’s are behaving in exactly same way, be that working or not working at exactly the same time. 

Best it to a garage.

How many miles has it done?

What's your driving pattern?

Assuming from driving like a dream it's responsive.

There could be a lot of causes; blocked fuel filter, dirty MAF sensor (was cause of my old B8 lumpy idle), engine mount. some will produce other symptoms e.g. bad injector and black smoke.

More info would help.

Were they brand new/in date batteries? It's important to rule this out.

My old A4 B8 started having an issue with unlocking/locking, and after some investigation I found the car battery voltage was around 12V so changed that anyway, and the initial problem with the fob went away too. 

3 hours ago, Rimmy said:

Changed the battery this morning but still the same issue. 

What brand of battery did you use? Guy at work had this exact issue, put the duracel in his fob from mine, and problem solved.

20 minutes ago, Pablo 1 said:

It is a 2ltr Diesel. TDI Ultra

You can get what's know as a Stage 1 Performance remap that will get you approximately +40 BHP and 90 lb/ft torque without needing to change clutch etc.

In my opinion the best in the business are REVO and would be worth travelling down to Cambridgeshire to get it done. Checkout Quattro-Tech in Peterborough or St. Ives

28 minutes ago, Pablo 1 said:

Jdragon. Thank you so much, that has worked a treat

Thanks for the update - glad it's sorted.

For what it's worth, the spinning knob thingy for the screen in terms of ergonomics and functionality is great.

I "simulated" touching my screen this morning and didn't approve 😄

Grill from TVP

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255374205676?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=n92ZltjHS0i&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=BbKs5X6FTgi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The badge from your existing grill will not fit. You'll need the 285mm version.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324622950888?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=d3MvoEJ_T86&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=BbKs5X6FTgi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Here's a useful video:
https://youtu.be/9n9DAoWMXzs

It makes me cringe when they peel back the arch liner because they are very stiff. I'd put some masking tape on the edge of the wing lip so to avoid scraping the paint off and rusty arches later. Or you could take the wheel off and remove it completely because they drop out once all the fasteners have been released.

You can stop the video at 15:47

The interesting part is under that foam crash bar cover will most likely be a flexible hose for the 'pedestrian protection system', so you can't remove it. Instead, you will need to cut the foam to suit the geometry of the new grill, and add cut outs for the parking sensors (and camera if you have one). A long super sharp knife, heat gun and patience are required. If you mess it up, it's only £30 for a new one from Audi.

Some people have reported issues with the camera angle on some grill designs, so be sure yours is OK before getting heavy with the glue.

And lastly, don't forget to plug in your parking sensor to the loom on the car.

Welcome to the forum.

Nice example you have coming, especially with the 19s.

Is this the kind of grill you have in mind?