jdragon

Stock S Line there's a crome strip running across the full width of the bumper, and from a distance it kinda raised the front, so I've covered it with vinyl wrap - very subtle.

No prize but what's different on the front bumper (honeycomb grill excluded) on this S Line compared to a stock S Line? 🤔 😃

I had this on my A5

Resolved by increasing the button press time to 2 seconds with VCDS

I think default was something like 600ms lol

Have you considered connecting your phone via Android Auto/Apple Play and using Google Maps instead? 

I went through Michelin, Pirelli, Khumo and other bands on my A4 B9 before staying with Goodyear Eagle AS3 (now 5)

I got 17-20k miles on the front and they feel great.

My A5 came with a brand new set of the GY so I've got something to compare ahead of replacing.

This could help. I'd say it's in exactly the same place as the attached manual extract 

Second the MPG comments here 😀

I'm getting high 70s from my A5 190 Ultra over a 40 minute drive of A roads

My Audi is Daytona grey and there were a couple of things that I didn't like with the overall look; for this topic it was the rear diffuser colour and asymmetric exhaust tailpipe.

Ideally I would have fitted a twin exhaust pipe to create the symmetry, but that's not possible without an AdBlue delete which I didn't want to do. So, I decided to have the rear diffuser painted gloss black and the tailpipes too, so to lessen the imbalance.

The diffuser was painted professionally at a local body shop.

I did the tail pipes myself by first leaving them overnight in a litre of Hydrochloric Acid 35% to remove the chrome plating, washed them with a detergent and brake cleaner, before spraying with a can of Simoniz Gloss Black Engine Enamel. 

Very pleased with the outcome.

On 8/5/2022 at 4:08 PM, Khan229 said:

Hi, i have been quoted for over £1000 for both front and rear discs and pads by Audi. I see on Euro car parts they are much cheaper. Need advice if I should go to Audi or get it done myself? A couple of people said go to Audi and some said do it yourself, so kinda confused. I thought the best option would be to ask for advice in here. Also, if I was to get it done myself what brand of discs and pads I should go for? Thank you 

I'll summarise, otherwise this thread may be more confusing:

Audi prices will always be more expensive, so unless there's a warranty concern, find a recommended indi and save yourself some money.

The "better and Best" from the list I posted are all made by TMG friction (apart from Pagid), so buy whichever brand suits your budget.

6 hours ago, Magnet said:

Interesting Jon, but who funds the trial on your posted link?

With appreciation of being blown out of the water, it’s always been VAG pads for me ( bought at discount) - except one deviation - when the pads were changed back to VAG.

Obviously a personal view, but the efficiency of the braking systems of all other family cars are compared with the Audi, and rated to that being the top. 
Ferodo, Mintex, etc. (the industry standard at one time) are now bought-out brand names. 
No more responses from me on such topics! 
Kind regards,

Gareth.

Who funds what? 

I'll call the garages next week to see what brands they use these days, as most of their VAG parts come from TPS.

I must be lucky because 'Ive used Pagid for over a decade with not one issue.

Why are they not considered ok?

Found it!

Post in thread 'Mintex or pagid' https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/index.php?threads/mintex-or-pagid.175907/post-1723091

The VAG specialist I go to (in fact the other garage I use too) both fit Pagid. 

I've used them on our cars for over a decade and never had any issues.

Fitted Brembo once because of availability but they didn't yield any noticeable benefit for the extra cost.

Edit: I fitted a set of Pagid discs and pads to my brothers BMW F30 a few weeks ago from ECP.

I had something similar on my A4 B8 and it was one of the many lower suspension bushes.

In my case it wasn't dangerous (just annoying) but definitely best to have it looked at just in case it's something more sinister.

Definitely not taken as a slight. If it's useful then great, if not it might as well be removed so not to confuse/mislead anyone.

I wasn't expecting a reduction after the repair, but I'll continue to log this data for a few months and will post for reference.

Good point re driving pattern and style though, I'll add now.

Nothing more than sharing the data I collected, as I considered it would've been useful to have found a similar log when I was trying to gauge if my values were typical.

Feel free to delete the thread.

I have the 2.0 ltr 190 ultra.

From VAG: When the load condition reaches 1.59 ounces (45 grams), service regeneration is no longer possible. Because the danger of destroying the filter is too great with this load, the filter must be replaced.

Automatic(active) regens should happen approx. 483km/300miles

My driving pattern is a 70 miles round trip for work (3 days/week) of A roads, and several 15-20 minute trips of again mostly A roads. We typically use my wife's car at weekend, otherwise I'll do another 60 miles round trip (minimum) drive on A roads.

My driving style to work is either conservative (avg. 57mph to get 76mpg+) or less patient where the economy drops to 64mpg. The shorter runs are less consistent 😃

I only use Esso or Shell fuel with a dose of either Archoil or Millers Eco Max.

The data can be found in VCDS under: 01-Engine > Advanced Measuring Blocks > Look for particuate values in the pop up menu

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Monday,11,April,2022,18:22:38
Mileage: 113739km-70674miles

  IDE00430-ENG57549   Particle filter: field regeneration request status-Bits 0-7 0 
  IDE00432   Particle filter: time since last regeneration 4.287 H
  IDE00434   Particle filter: soot mass calculated 17.77 g
  IDE00435   Particle filter: soot mass measured 4.76 g
  IDE00436   Particle filter: kilometers since last regeneration 277.2 km

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Attempted to regen by driving at 2000-2500RPM for 20 minutes to no avail
Forced regen by VCDS
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Monday,11,April,2022,19:52:56
Mileage: 113808km-70717miiles

  IDE00430-ENG57549   Particle filter: field regeneration request status-Bits 0-7 0 
  IDE00432   Particle filter: time since last regeneration 0.086 H
  IDE00434   Particle filter: soot mass calculated 5.48 g
  IDE00435   Particle filter: soot mass measured -5.90 g
  IDE00436   Particle filter: kilometers since last regeneration 0.0 km
  IDE06059   Particulate filter: oil ash mass 27.3242038 g
  IDE06060   Particulate filter ash load limit 80.000 g

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Car did an active regen on 19th April idle afer a 10 mile journey
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Wednesday,20,April,2022,19:10:25
Mileage: 114294km-71019miiles

  IDE00430-ENG57549   Particle filter: field regeneration request status-Bits 0-7 0 
  IDE00432   Particle filter: time since last regeneration 1.322 H
  IDE00434   Particle filter: soot mass calculated 9.49 g
  IDE00435   Particle filter: soot mass measured -0.67 g
  IDE00436   Particle filter: kilometers since last regeneration 105.8 km
  IDE06059   Particulate filter: oil ash mass 27.4332197 g
  IDE06060   Particulate filter ash load limit 80.000 g

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Monday,25,April,2022,20:06:45
Mileage: 114587km-71201miiles

  IDE00430-ENG57549   Particle filter: field regeneration request status-Bits 0-7 0 
  IDE00432   Particle filter: time since last regeneration 5.650 H
  IDE00434   Particle filter: soot mass calculated 22.12 g
  IDE00435   Particle filter: soot mass measured 5.39 g
  IDE00436   Particle filter: kilometers since last regeneration 395.1 km
  IDE06059   Particulate filter: oil ash mass 27.4953320 g
  IDE06060   Particulate filter ash load limit 80.000 g

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Tuesday,26,April,2022,18:25:59
Mileage: 114725km-71287miiles

  IDE00430-ENG57549   Particle filter: field regeneration request status-Bits 0-7 0 
  IDE00432   Particle filter: time since last regeneration 1.049 H
  IDE00434   Particle filter: soot mass calculated 7.55 g
  IDE00435   Particle filter: soot mass measured -2.93 g
  IDE00436   Particle filter: kilometers since last regeneration 64.4 km
  IDE06059   Particulate filter: oil ash mass 27.5283779 g
  IDE06060   Particulate filter ash load limit 80.000 g

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
New EGR Valve and Cooler fitted at ~75k miles
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Saturday,30,July,2022,08:16:18
Mileage: 120925km-75139miiles

  IDE00430-ENG57549   Particle filter: field regeneration request status-Bits 0-7 0 
  IDE00432   Particle filter: time since last regeneration 3.596 H
  IDE00434   Particle filter: soot mass calculated 16.09 g
  IDE00435   Particle filter: soot mass measured 1.77 g
  IDE00436   Particle filter: kilometers since last regeneration 262.0 km
  IDE06059   Particulate filter: oil ash mass 28.8149848 g
  IDE06060   Particulate filter ash load limit 80.000 g

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

This P2002 00 code (as far as I can tell) was first logged on Oct-27 2021 at 69669 miles according to the scan I had done when I purchased the car in March with not many more on the clock

The MIL first came on in April at approx. 61k miles, and again in May at just over 72k miles

From that point it came on every 170-200 miles so I was clearing it each week

There was the familiar white smoke deposited on the exhaust pipe, which became much more noticeable after the MIL light came on for the first time

I had both the EGR valve and cooler replaced a few days ago at just under 75k miles as indicated by TPI 2050077/7

My new EGR valve was not adapted

So just to clarify there is no need to consider your DPF for this code as I did initially, however before you rush in to having the parts replaced, check your G450 sensor voltages because it could be that at a cost of around £80

The warranty company requested photos, so I kept the parts and have uploaded them here

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to the thread, and my learning - I hope someone else finds it useful

V339_low pressure.pdf

On 6/16/2022 at 11:00 PM, Lynx said:

Gents!
So I have noticed that when accelerating to motorway speeds, as I pass about 45/50, There is a whining sound, almost like a whirring/medium pitch humming sound that increases in pitch as speed goes up.

2014 A5 2.0TDI (134)
114k miles
0B1 6-speed manual gearbox (0B1 is the code Audi gave me so I could look into getting repairs)
 

I originally though it could be worn gear sets as the car had spent pretty much all of its life before I bought it as a motorway cruiser between B'ham and Bristol - However, I've noticed that as time/mileage has passed, the noise is appearing at lower speeds. Originally the sound was only made in 5th & 6th gears, but now I've added about 1k miles on it since noise started, I can hit high revs in 4th and hear the sound starting.
I have been told by a gearbox centre that the only time he has seen a gearbox of the type I have, it was the journal bearing at the end of the casing that couldn't be replaced due to Audi not selling the part needed and it being proprietary, meaning I'd need a new gearbox. Given the potential costs involved of what I've been told, I figured I would ask around on here to see if you guys have any insights, thoughts, or had a similar or identical problem in the past.

I was considering taking it in for a gearbox oil change and asking them to just add in a little extra as a few cars I've owned in the past did benefit from such a move - not to hide a problem.

Any advice or thoughts would be appreciated. I'll look into getting a video recording and hopefully it'll pick up the sound in the coming days, see if you guys know the noise.

Cheers Guys!

Have you resolved this?

I wasted more than half a day at my local F1 centre when they "did" the tracking on my old A4, just because I was already there having tyres fitted.

Never again.

I've read some issues occur with crystal build-up and wondered if there's any advantage in diluting the AdBlu by 5-10% with DI water?

1 hour ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi it was just the EGR valve I re adapted, go through the menu on basic settings address 6 on my version scroll down to low pressure EGR adaptation and press go watch the numbers going up and down when it stops wait two mins and press done.

Steve.

Thanks for that. I'll make sure this is done when mine is changed in a couple of weeks. Or I'll likely just do it myself anyway, as it won't do any harm if it's done twice.

I've also read the G450 sensor should be adapted too. What are your thoughts on that? 

18 minutes ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi sorry the EGR valve was VDO, the cooler was replaced off the back of p2002  and was a previously enjoyed unit from eBay which I super cleaned with carbon cleaner and Mr Muscle, its just unfortunate we have two EGR valves, the low pressure one in the DPF and the high pressure one on the intake manifold which I have never had a problem with because thats the easiest to change, Murphys Law.

Steve.

Thanks for the clarification. Great that you have it sorted and the car is running well. 125k miles is extremely good from what I've read.

What procedure did you follow to adapt the new cooler?

7 minutes ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi Jon well over a thousand miles and its behaving itself, I had to re adapt the valve on the cooler as that was new and that took about five mins its definitely got its MOJO back and I am getting good mpg even with the aircon going, still persisting with the Archoil as the way I am looking at it is if I got 125k out of the last cooler so chances are the replacement should do the same, I was wracking my brains as to why my one leaked and today I found the answer from a lorry fitter I took to a wedding reception, apparently they have this problem as well, it starts with the cooler blocking which then traps crystals in the cooling tubes the steam from the next spraying of adblue [35% Urea 65% distilled water] then dampens the trapped crystals and they start to rot the cooler tubes, I looked this up when I got home and sure enough adblue is harmless to the environment but will be corrosive to most base metals which is why the feed pipes are high quality plastic and the spray nozzles are high tensile steel which is chromed, I paid £120 for an O.E VDO valve just because it didn't have the VAG logo which is better than the £350 that Audi wanted, so if it all holds up barring the labour it was a cheap fix, still working on the catch can thing as lateral thinking says if you can stop the extra water getting in it will cut down on the steam supply to the cooler.

Steve.

Thanks for the info.

If I understand correctly, it was a leak you noticed which led to the cooler being changed?

Do you mean a EGR valve was VDO or the cooler too? My A4 EGR valve was replaced with a VDO and it clocked up over 100k, but was cleaned a couple of time as to be expected (and still going for the new owner).