jdragon

I've bought a sensor from eBay to keep in the car 😀 

I'm not going to tempt fate by messing around with something that isn't broken.

It doesn't appear to be the 'A' version however for £15 it might prevent a bigger issue.

Edit:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334119302412?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=uI6ymBN1QH-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=BbKs5X6FTgi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

2 hours ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi Jon you wont be disappointed, only other thing I would suggest is as you are rebuilding the rears clean the callipers off with brake cleaner and a Scotch brite cloth then mask off the rubber boots on the carrier pins and give it spray with some Halfords calliper paint, did that with my daughters Q3 when I did her pads and discs and it makes it look like new, still look great a year on.

Steve.

I did exactly the same thing (different paint 😉) to the callipers, brake disc drum and brake shields on the wife's Golf, only because the discs can be removed without removing the carrier as I didn't have a large enough bit.

Glad you mentioned it - I feel less particular now 😅 

11 hours ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi Jon you wont need to replace the carrier bolts as these have a coarser thread as well as having grip washers on the bolt itself, as you will find out when you undo yours which requires a fair bit of grunt and a breaker bar, as for your wife's situation that is weird as they all come with the anti squeal pads already fitted you just have to peel the plastic backing cover off, not trying to teach my grandma how to suck eggs but another common mistake is copper greasing the backs of the pads, that will make them squeal as the idea is the rubber pad on the back with heat will attach semi permanently to the piston and support faces of the calliper.

Steve.

Hi Steve, thinking back to when I rebuild the callipers on my A4 I didn't replace the carrier bolts then, and as you say, they had the grip washer. I just cleaned them with a wire brush and added a few drops of blue loctite.

I was also surprised about the pads not having the backing on. I've seen it multiple times on various brands I've fitted over the years. Unfortunately ECP didn't have another set in stock to compare. Perhaps QC missed that batch 😄

I'll be going ahead with the full Brembo setup, and will report back on progress in the coming weeks. Thanks guys.

52 minutes ago, Magnet said:

Plus 1 for Brembo pads as a in progress trial on a family member’s non-Audi, which are impressing so far, compared with earlier main dealer pads. 
Plus 1 also for Parts in Motion, and I guess Steve has to spend with them more often than I do! - bless him. As we have both said before, P in M offer good-brand aftermarket parts at very competitive prices - never faulted their service so far. 
Nothing too critical Jon, but why ECP? Not trading on their ‘impressive’ % discounts on so called retail prices any more -? 
Possible additional source worth keeping an eye on is Simply Car Parts, trading on EBay, as P in M do. Seem efficiency and competitive. 
Kind regards,

Gareth. 

Hi Gareth, I tried Parts in Motion but no luck on these brands for my car this time.

The full Brembo setup from CP4L is £149 with the wear sensor and for no other reason than I pass the ECP store every Sunday where I can do a pick-up from 🙂

Thanks for your notes on experience with these also.

1 hour ago, Stevey Y said:

Hi Jon, having run just about every combination of discs and pads over the last million miles I can honestly say that Brembo are excellent, both discs and pads BUT the ATE discs will last longer as the carbon content is far higher, Bosch pads are very good used with the ATE/Brembo discs, most other brands Febi/Mintex/Delphi are good but tend to wear faster, if you re use the old bolts 20nm torque is about right as these are stretch bolts and ideally you would use new bolts but absent new bolts you wont want to put to much pressure on already stretched threads, most kits worth getting have new bolts and a wear sensor as if you don't replace the sensor yes the old one works but fails in a short space of time leaving you with a dash warning light, you can phone TPS but have a Defib unit handy, then do the sensible thing and go on parts in motion web site or eBay I have just bought genuine ATE front discs and a Bosch pad kit with sensor cable and new bolts for £170, its all there if you search and the rear discs and pads are always cheaper by about 40%.

Steve.

Thanks for the feedback and advice Steve - much appreciated.

How are you getting on with the Bosch pads? I bought a set for the wife's Golf rear a few months ago, but they did not have a friction pad and squealed loads, so replaced them with ECP cheapest brand and they are doing great.

Do the carrier to hub bolts need replacing?

Hi all, it looks like it's time to put some shiny new rear brake discs and pads on my car.

I've always opted for Pagid discs and pads however there seems to be mixed thoughts on them these days. The only negative of the setup is was they create a lot of brake dust, but I never had an issue with confidence in stopping the car.

With the dust seen on my previous car in mind, I am looking to move away from the Pagid pads at least.

ECP have Brembo at around the same price as everything else these days, and people seem to rave about them but I have no experience using them. Having a quick read on here, ATE come up as recommended for discs and pads. Can anyone share experience on either Brembo or ATE or something else?

I have a full OEM setup currently, so will be calling TPS on Monday to see how their prices compare.

As for the procedure, I understand the calliper to carrier bolt torque is 30 Nm (and the same bolts can be reused if not supplied with the pads if blue threadlock is applied). The carrier to hub bolt torque is 196 Nm but they MUST be replaced.

Do I also need to replace the wear sensor? It's not worn. The car is on the original discs and the second set of pads, the issue is the discs are pretty much at the minimum thickness and the lip is about 1.5mm away from rubbing on the calliper. According to my verniers, the discs are close to the minimum thickness, so grinding the lip off isn't worth doubling the effort.

Thanks Steve; I appreciate your thoughts and advice.

I'm up to 93k now......I should probably get this done 

Gearbox oil change is an interesting topic. Audi and the specialist I take the cars to say for my A5 B9 manual, it's a sealed box and doesn't need changing.

The specialist however did say if I'm having issues, and if not, leave it alone. 

My old A4 B8 had a slight issue at 140k so the oil was changed and slik50 (I think it's called) added and it's now on 265k with the new owner and trouble free.

Have the glow plugs been checked, and MAF sensor cleaned as suggested in my last post?

I had this on my A4 B8 2.0 diesel at more miles than your car has covered.

As posted elsewhere on this site (search my posts), I did something like:

Cleaned MAF sensor

Checked glow plugs resistance (all ok) and checked caps were seated properly 

Might have been something else but I can't remember just now, but the problem went away.

When was air filter changed? 

Cataclean would be something else to try.

Throttle valve could also be an issue if the above does no solve the issue.

That's how it leafy it looked in my car, but with a cleaner filter that had been changed at 59k 😄

I think Audi only have a hoover in the valeting bay...

If it were my car, I'd go to TPS for the shocks. They will cost you around £90 each but for piece of mind, it's worth the little extra in my opinion 🙂

Edit: a garage I trust do however rate Sachs. They fitted Sachs rear coil springs to my old A4 B8 with no issues over the 20k I had the car following or for my mate who now owns the car.

On 7/31/2023 at 7:38 AM, jordanmc321 said:

I think where I live I'm probably not going to get much better to be honest, I live in a valley so as you can imagine lots of ups and downs. Also think that the Quattro version that I have is never going to be as good as a FWD that I'm assuming you have?

It has full Audi service history and 1 owner from new so the Audi dealer servicing the car was always the same one as well. I've ordered all the service bits to do it on Saturday but will have a look at the air filter this evening to see whether it has been changed. According to the schedule it should have been done at 60,000 and Audi last had it in at 62,000 but it doesn't mention the air filter. 

Edit: the previous owner had never reset the long term trip computer and over 67,000 miles it only averaged 38. It has risen now and did on the way home the day I bought it, obviously I've reset it now as I had updates done to the VC. 

Just for completeness; I checked the longterm trip this morning and it showed 64.6 mpg over 8300 miles.

I realise the difference as yours is Quattro but I wanted to better quantify / validate my earlier post of the MPGs I'm seeing 🙂

13 minutes ago, jordanmc321 said:

Wish I'd gone for the FWD knowing that they get that good MPGs 🤣saying that come winter I'd probably be regretting it if I had. 

Yes I hope so too but the fault code still hasn't shown up again. The last 30 litres of fuel I put in had a bottle of cataclean in just before it so hopefully it'll be doing its job by now. Also got Archoil to be put in as well.

Yes, it's why I avoided the Quattro but it sounds like you'll definitely benefit from it in the winter.

The Cataclean and Archoil are great for the fuel system and DPF, but for the EGR cooler the main contributer being the AdBlue so no amount of fuel system cleaner will negate that, but it should help delay from the perspective of the fuel contributers.

I didn't notice it is a Quattro, so the MPGs I'm getting is not helpful here.

At least you have the satisfaction of knowing the average over it's 67k so that rules out something more sinister too, so that's great news.

@Jaime A5 Quattro is yours diesel? 

Fingers crossed the EML comes on, so you can get the EGR valve and cooler replaced with some help from the warranty cover.

Paying forward a tip from @Stevey Y is run a bottle of cataclean through it, you should be very pleased with the outcome.

Those values, even the "improved" ones don't seem right.

I can cruise at 68mph along A roads for approx. 35 miles and achieve ~75mpg, if I push it, I still get ~65 mpg, according to the trip data.

My only gauge is I had a A4 BB 2.0 diesel and for the same amount of fuel and journey, I'm now getting ~100 extra miles per tank.

I only use Esso standard fuel with the required dose of Archoil.

There could be something more sinister going on there.

Edit: what's the service history? I changed the air filter and spray cleaned the MAF sensor shortly after getting mine, but I don't recall the MPGs ever being as low as you're seeing.

I also think my car has the latest version of software.

That's interesting. Do you know which version of software it was / is now?

What's you're typical driving and MPGs were you getting?

Why did you have the software rolled back? 

On 7/28/2023 at 9:05 AM, jordanmc321 said:

Thanks again Steve, I will be sure to find a reputable company to do the mapping and will leave the EGR and DPF alone. 

Just a quick update on my car, I've had the ecu software rolled back from the emissions update that Audi done and the guy who done this for me cleared the codes which still haven't come back on yet, this was done Wednesday (26th) and still nothing at the moment. I'm hoping either the DPF cleaner I used has solved the issue or I'm also thinking that the roll back may have changed the efficiency thresholds and thus not bring the warning back on. 

For anyone interested, the fuel economy seems to have improved a bit since the roll back as well. 

Jordan 

The DPF cleaner will not solve the issue.

The issue Is the EGR cooler, unfortunately.

On 10/27/2022 at 4:52 PM, Cassjam said:

Where’s this grill from?

On 7/26/2023 at 7:31 PM, Stevey Y said:

Hi the natural regeneration process is not affected by the low pressure cooler being blocked and will carry on regardless of this I assumed that the EGR cleaner when mine was going would keep it clear in the end I was using a bottle every week but unfortunately the outcome was the same, replacement as the cooler had rotted out and was feeding water into the tubes which resulted in water loss and the tailpipes going white.

Steve.

I still see the tailpipes going white, but I was wondering if the Archoil does this 🤔 

I forgot to use the additive and didn't notice any white build-up....I should experiment more with this.

I thought about this topic earlier when I heard the same noise coming from the neighbours new car when it started up.

It's a Seat Ibiza 2016 

Here's what I would do.

Revert the mapping so the car can see the EGRs

Run it. If light comes on (which it probably will) have it diagnosed and it'll probably end up needing a new EGR and cooler.

Accept that if you keep the car for several years, it'll need doing again but when exactly will depend on mileage, driving pattern, fuel quality.

On 6/3/2023 at 5:36 PM, AlanF said:

Hi I know this is an old thread but I have same car with same fault but recently found that my egrs are previously been mapped out? Do you have any idea why I would still be getting the fault? Is it the low pressure egr you replaced? Thanks 

@AlanF it's detailed here in the thread you've commented on 🙂