jdragon

Sure, but you've changed the MAF sensor and still have a problem. Coil light typically indicates glow plugs. If you have/know anyone with a multimeter it's a 10 minute job to check them.

You'd need to check the battery Amps

It was worth a try 🙂 The reason I suggested is that when my friends A3 (2011 model) was ready to be replaced pretty much every light came on in the car as a result, even after replacing the battery. The local garage did a manual reset and everything was OK after. Seems very strange VCDS won't communicate with the car. I'd start a thread about that and post a scan (if you have one) on the Ross-tech forums to see what feedback you can get. Have you checked the alternator? Perhaps taking the car to an auto electrician is the next step?

Glow plugs?

Google "how to reset audi ecu" There are several ways, I wouldn't like to suggest one over the other 🙂

If the starter is turning well, I'd try manually resetting the ECU 🙂

Reposted here

Your approach to loading and safety is worth recognising. You'd get on very well with the guys from the company who manage our airport runs.

So I did the drive. Car was loaded with me and three others at around 420kg combined mass, plus short stay luggage in the boot. No handling issues to report 🙂

DVLA thought my previous B8 was an automatic 😀

Have a look at the thread 8 down in this section.

Had similar in my previous A4 but left it because it didn't make any difference to the AC In your case, it depends which motor has failed. I think there are five, and have varying levels of complexity. I'd also reconsider your "specialist" and look elsewhere based on that assessment.

I like this method of checking the battery: leave the car unlocked and bonnet open (preferably overnight) and measure the voltage across the battery terminals. Check against this table. If you have VCDS, the measured voltage can be compared with that too.

Glad you have seen an improvement. I passed that little gem forward from @Stevey Y The next thing I was going to suggest was giving the MAF sensor a clean with the stuff from Liquid Moly. This too made a huge difference to my previous car, when I had nothing to go on from the scan. I'd also recommend using Archoil fuel additive.

Might be worth checking the glow plug caps are well seated too. Sometimes problems can be resolved by the most simplest interventions. To give an example: abs light came on my in-laws dash. Garage quoted them £400/1000 to fit a used/new part respectively. After a little Google and 5 minutes looking at the car, I discovered it was a blown fuse.

Run a bottle of cataclean through it. Quickest and cheapest option right now. And be sure to drive it until you're display is showing 50 miles left, so it takes more through the system than the recommended 15 minutes on the bottle. Report back the outcome.

Best it to a garage.

How many miles has it done? What's your driving pattern? Assuming from driving like a dream it's responsive. There could be a lot of causes; blocked fuel filter, dirty MAF sensor (was cause of my old B8 lumpy idle), engine mount. some will produce other symptoms e.g. bad injector and black smoke. More info would help.

Were they brand new/in date batteries? It's important to rule this out. My old A4 B8 started having an issue with unlocking/locking, and after some investigation I found the car battery voltage was around 12V so changed that anyway, and the initial problem with the fob went away too.

What brand of battery did you use? Guy at work had this exact issue, put the duracel in his fob from mine, and problem solved.

You can get what's know as a Stage 1 Performance remap that will get you approximately +40 BHP and 90 lb/ft torque without needing to change clutch etc. In my opinion the best in the business are REVO and would be worth travelling down to Cambridgeshire to get it done. Checkout Quattro-Tech in Peterborough or St. Ives

Thanks for the update - glad it's sorted.

For what it's worth, the spinning knob thingy for the screen in terms of ergonomics and functionality is great. I "simulated" touching my screen this morning and didn't approve 😄

Grill from TVP https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255374205676?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=n92ZltjHS0i&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=BbKs5X6FTgi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY The badge from your existing grill will not fit. You'll need the 285mm version. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324622950888?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=d3MvoEJ_T86&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=BbKs5X6FTgi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Here's a useful video: https://youtu.be/9n9DAoWMXzs It makes me cringe when they peel back the arch liner because they are very stiff. I'd put some masking tape on the edge of the wing lip so to avoid scraping the paint off and rusty arches later. Or you could take the wheel off and remove it completely because they drop out once all the fasteners have been released. You can stop the video at 15:47 The interesting part is under that foam crash bar cover will most likely be a flexible hose for the 'pedestrian protection system', so you can't remove it. Instead, you will need to cut the foam to suit the geometry of the new grill, and add cut outs for the parking sensors (and camera if you have one). A long super sharp knife, heat gun and patience are required. If you mess it up, it's only £30 for a new one from Audi. Some people have reported issues with the camera angle on some grill designs, so be sure yours is OK before getting heavy with the glue. And lastly, don't forget to plug in your parking sensor to the loom on the car.

Welcome to the forum. Nice example you have coming, especially with the 19s. Is this the kind of grill you have in mind?