Magnet

Welcome Charlotte, and thanks for joining. Back in Oct. 2023, Paul outlined what the offending part was on his ( in caps) car. Could you please outline the exact issues you are getting with your car. To save asking again, how old is your battery? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Joy, Just doing some system tidying up and wonder whether you can now update us please.

Hello Stephen, Such expenditure regrettably puts anyone into this ‘spend or get rid of dilemma’ - sorry to hear you are in that situation. It would seem that the deal-breaker here is the labour time, since the parts prices seem to be more reasonable than I would have expected for a DMF inclusive clutch kit. Even at a very very modest one-man-band labour rate of say £50/hr. it’s going to work out at over £1200 I guess. As a matter of interest, why ECP, particularly now that they no longer have their high % discounts on so called retail prices? Seldom find them to be competitive. My go-to supplier is now Parts in Motion ( no connection), who have provided me with competitive prices on good brands ( they do cheaper brands as well, but…). I always check what their charge is before looking for the same brand elsewhere. Good luck with whatever you decide to do Stephen. Kind regards, Gareth.

Good for you to question this Kev. Lee2 posted on 14th June., last visited on 20th June, and has ignored 2 requests to state a price. Not good form, and if the forum doesn’t receive a response to today’s comments , then bans on further posts may be implemented.

So not a genuine (Audi) one from Autodoc then Barry?

Any further comments then Chris?

Good morning Paul, Wondered if you are going to return to the forum to read the response to the question you asked-? Many thanks, Gareth.

Hello Tom, Are you going to return to the forum to read the help you have been given?

Hello Daryl, Have a look at LLL Parts website. You should be able to obtain a part number from there, then cross reference to the appropriate aftermarket part - I take it you are buying aftermarket-? If so, also try Parts in Motion at Exeter ( mail order) - they maybe able to identify the correct one for you. Could you let us know how you get on please -? Kind regards, Gareth.

Could members who own these please shared their experiences with Jamie -? Many thanks, Gareth.

Thanks Barry, Do Autodoc sell genuine VAG ones then? Thought they were all aftermarket. I bought an aftermarket one from an EBay seller, and it was even embossed with the correct Audi part number. Seemed a bargain at less than £20 compared with VAG of nearer £120 each. Experience:- works well in dry conditions, not so in wet. Kind regards, Gareth.

Did you buy genuine or EBay Barry?

You make your own decision Brian. It’s your car and your chances. Just give the posts a good read, and make your decision either to follow VAG’s current recommendation - which it seems you favour, or Vag’s earlier recommendations. You are a free spirit and can decide what suits you.

So are you and A5Black, one and the same person. Same location, same year and model, exactly the same post wording! Strange or suspect-?

Indeed, as we would say around here Brian - except VAG stand to make very little money from selling you a cambelt kit, but belt snaps, bang goes your engine - beyond economical repair - and VAG entices you to buy another one at great expenditure to yourself, but don’t worry, think about the profit you will then be giving to VAG. To me, it’s still every 5 years, but we are all different. Expensive item to replace is a 2014 A6 with previously much wear left in it.

Um! Bless you, and anyone else who puts their trust in Lion batteries. As I’ve said on here before, if I were to compile a list of batteries I wouldn’t own - even if given to me- Lion would be top of that list. As I understand it ECP are now re branding them to Starline - another ECP sole brand. Nothing to do with the reputation of Lion, of course! If this car were mine, I would be sending it back, and buying a sensible brand one. I’ve bought Exide from Tayna at reasonable cost ( no connection and there are other suppliers). Kind regards, Gareth.

I do believe it’s one out all out Barry, but I could be wrong. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry John, it would prove very difficult to diagnose the issue without inspecting the car, although someone might just have had a similar experience. Can we take it the noise is/isn’t there when the car is stationary and the engine is revved? I fear you will need to get this car to a garage since even if the offending part can be detected, it doesn’t seem as if you could replace it yourself. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Brian, Do you know why it’s now c140k miles, and do you know this is as a result of more recent changes of policy with VAG? Perhaps you can follow the advice given to Mr T on 13th June, - I.e. read the previous posts, and let us know what you decide in your particular case. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Mark, I’m not sure about a code for your entertainment system, but you can buy a ‘code saver’ device which will maintain some power while the battery is switched over. What you will need however, is to have the new battery coded to the car, otherwise the alternator will treat it as the old battery, and could cook it - and the alternator. What brand of battery are you buying, and from where? Kind regards, Gareth.

I’m with your logic. Never heard the likes, but Stevey Y is your man with the knowledge of these things, and I’m sure will have the proper reason. £100 for oil? seems to be near dealer charges unless it’s pretty special - which I would doubt due to its age. Anyway….. It will be job done.

Perhaps so Roderick, but questionable and arbitrary on a 14 year old car I guess. Still, job done. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Gary, For me to get my interpretation correct:- When you say the heater comes on, you actually mean the heater fan comes on - yes? Is the symptom any different if the heating is set to ‘Auto’, or indeed the whole system switched off -if possible? Any different if switched to air con? Any different if switched to fast demise/defrost? Just to get the full story:- does the coolant temperature reach 90 degrees in a sensible period of time - say 3 miles - and constantly holds steady at that? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks both, Yes, I heard of this - high temperature silicone in effect. What I can’t and still don’t, understand, why actually replace (in caps) the sump if it’s only the sealant which has broken down? Easier to charge the owner for a new sump pan, than to spend a small amount of time properly cleaning the old sealant off -? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Paul, Glad we could help. New (EBay international’ or secondhand?