Magnet

Hello Daniel, It’s probably just me, but your persistence to ask advice then ignore or reject it, is wearing a bit thin. Brake light switch:-‘ Anyone know where this part might be?’ Worth trying to put a Please in there somewhere??

OK Daniel, now things are getting more informed, and indeed meaningful. Again, I’m not claiming this as the culprit, but if I was to compile a list of the battery brands I would not have - even if given to me - Lion would be the top of that list. ECP’s best!! I believe they are now branding them Starline ( another of ECP exclusive names). Nothing to do with the reputation of Lion of course. So, buy cheapest and you get to the buy twice syndrome. If it wasn’t the cheapest, then that’s an even greater shame. Make note, the electronics on modern cars are demanding - particularly on batteries. Alternator output:- unknown. Parasitic drain :-unknown. Your issues may have nothing to do with any of the above, but from the school of eliminating cheapest option routes first, then I would have wanted these checked, before cluster investigations, brake switch etc. It looks like you are going to have to wait some weeks then.

Ok, this is getting difficult, since we are not getting the answers to questions asked. Yes, you can go ahead with your assumption that this isn’t battery associated - and it may not be - but it remains an assumption until proven. To go ahead with that assumption, points you to the expensive route of getting the cluster assessed. Not my money, but if it was, I would need answers to:- Make of battery, since some brands are notorious for poor quality-? Alternator output check? Parasitic drain on battery check? I am not claiming your issue is battery associated, but simply to confirm whether it is or not. Only when I had eliminated these factors, would I move on to investigating more costly options. Questions are asked, and advice offered, but of course we have no control over the responses received against either. I really cannot offer any other first-line advice, so I can only leave it to others to offer their advice, based on the facts which have been tendered.

Not as simple as that that then. Alternator output checked? Brand of replacement battery?

Last two posts crossed. I suppose it now rests with the economics of seeking further legal advice.

Really sorry to hear that David, particularly since Audi Customer Services now?(not sure when that was written) seems ‘prepared to talk’. Press, media? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Peter, Feeling a raised edge with your nail, really isn’t proof that the paint has cracked. Equally a local layer of lacquer has been removed - as Cliff suggests. Normal car washing regime Peter? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks David, And if you agreed to withdraw that ‘action’ - how far would you anticipate they would be likely to stretch to? Kind regards, Gareth.

This poster has been warned for ‘Post and Run’ tactics, and any future posts will have to be authorised before being displayed.

Any answers or comments for us Peter?

Any further forward Dan?

Hello John, I believe the rear camber is adjusted by the ‘off centre’ outboard wishbone bolt, which rotates on its off-centre axis, to adjust the alignment. The adjustment is of course very fine. If I’m understanding it correctly, you feel the offender is the original wishbone ( and of course bolt), whereas you feel the newly replaced wishbone ( and bolt?) is satisfactory. Odd! Obviously, more critical than the bolt and its correct rotational position, is the bush in the lower section of the hub carrier. Was this renewed when the wishbone and spring were replaced? Have you checked the near side bush? Any amount of DIYing adjustment will be fruitless, so just forget it. Way forward as I see it:- Check outer ( and inner in fact) bushes for wear. Buy and fit new adjusting bolts - usually listed on EBay as genuine VAG. Get the car realigned on professional equipment. In case it help:- I use my local ATS folks, since they seem to know what they are doing, and more importantly, you can talk to them. Yours? Beware of claims of super systems. I find that the equipment is indeed sophisticated, but the operator’s knowledge of how to use it, may not be so sophisticated! Could you come back to us with the answers to the questions John, Kind regards, Gareth,

So cheapest option to start, will be getting the new (how long has it been on there?) battery coded. Can we take it you fitted a good quality battery, rather than one bought on price? Kind regards, Gareth. Our 2006 doesn’t need coding, but…

2007 might be a little early to need new battery being coded to the car, but worth a check. Think Clifford on here has mentioned issue with dashboard cluster in the past. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Zahir, Apologies re KF - misread you use them for servicing. Can now see you use independent dealers. Are we talking independent VW/ Audi specialists? Searching:- I would suggest you use Google, then when you have narrowed it down then start asking around for opinion. Kind regards, Gareth.

Possibility Harv - but just only that:- Finance taken out in June? Possibly last owner. Car now back in stock due to rejection. Car owes the dealer beyond its tradable value, so trying to retail it again ?? Just between-the-lines guess work though.

Sounds good Zahir. If it were mine, I would do the same, but it’s not my position on here to make decisions for members - only to provide alternatives for them to consider. In case it helps :- For external water pumps, thermostat housings etc. I’ve used aftermarket parts by Febi to good avail, rather than main dealer parts. Independents may want to use main dealer parts, so worth checking what you are getting for your quote. If using aftermarket parts I tend to favour on- line mail order motor factors Parts in Motions down at Exeter. ( no connection). Kwik Fit for servicing ? Um!? Not for me, I like top branded filters etc. not ones from possibly ‘own-brand’ parts suppliers. We are all different, but whatever, it’s always worth fostering good relations with whoever you use, be it an independent or a local garage. Last resort for me is having to deal with front-of-house service receptionists rather than those who are actually much closer to the tools. Just let us know if we can help further. Kind regards, Gareth.

Some good experience there Harv, and many thanks Frank for sharing it for the benefit of others. Sounds a good motoring career Frank. I hope we are at a turning point with the forum, and shared experiences will become more of a norm. I guess we’ve all had disappointments when realising vehicles may not be all they look to be, but I think it usually works out in the end. Yes please Harv - keep in touch. I have an affinity for Shropshire - my great grandfather’s family hailed from Wem. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Frank, don’t boast (only joking) about being a youngster!

Thanks for coming back Zahir, All of this can only be guesstimates, but it’s quite possible that the parts bill might be halved by buying quality aftermarket parts. Further, I would be surprised if your London Audi dealer’s labour rates are less than £140 + VAT/ hr..Again, this might be halved at a local garage, so you can do the maths, and adjusting by the £140 (+ VAT?) for inspection, plus the transport costs ( if currently disabled) to get it to another small garage. I have to say this as I think ( in caps) it might be:-you must be knowledgeable of the added cost of engaging main dealers in looking after this 13 year old car, so larger than average bills must be the norm to you. If so, it might be a case of ‘carry on then’ with this job, rather than perhaps shopping around in the future to get better value for money. Perhaps you could let us know what you think. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for letting us know Harv. Homework is king, and if you treat any claim for any good points as being fictitious until the evidence is shown, then it should minimise your risks. First port of call for me is always MOT history, followed by DVLA vehicle check to see when the last V5 was issued. Good clue to how long the last owner has had it, but can be misleading if the new V5 was issued due to cherished number sorting. Ask the seller to e-mail you a copy of the service history, then contact the servicing dealer/s and confirm/ get additional info there. Enquiries via. VIN might be necessary if it’s been on cherished numbers. Ask the seller to let you have remaining tread levels on all 4 wheels, and tyre brands would be good to know. All of this homework, and more, can now be carried out from the comfort of your arm chair, before viewing. Viewing without having first done this homework can be dangerous, due to falling in love with it - and what does love do to your eyesight? Last thing:- If I was buying in that price range then I would invest in an independent inspection before agreeing to buy. It’s a small amount of extra funds to pay for reassurance. Check out local independents around the area the vehicle is for sale in. Perhaps you could keep in touch as things develop Harv, and please come back to us anyway if you think we can help. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Zahir, As Cliff says really. Can we take you the original mechanic didn’t want to do the job because it was too complex to get at?? If so, I’m surprised you took this 13 year old car to a main dealer - probably the last place to go to show respect to your wallet. Still, regrettably, you are stuck with it there now, and I guess you will just have to await the verdict. Alternatively, you instruct them to hold fire - pay their labour costs so far, and pay to get it transported to another garage of your choice. Sorry, I can’t see any other alternatives - as harsh as that might be. If it were me, I would be requesting the main dealer to keep you updated on cause and cure, before agreeing. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Luke, Good old EBay?, Aliexpress? PM to Sean? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gary, Such issues are normally as a result of a sticky solenoid in the flap release. Worth doing a forum search, since this been raised in the past. Meanwhile give it a good squirt of WD40 , while you search. Quickest way to get it open ( before fitting a new solenoid) is to leave your fuel level drop to under a quarter, and call out your breakdown provider. Kind regards, Gareth.

Well I’m passing my thanks on to Dave, but it does give us a lift when efforts on here are known to be appreciated. Our thanks to you both. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Gavin, and thanks for joining. Having now done what would be considered comprehensive, you now need to get the actual oil pressure physically measured by a garage who has the equipment to do so. This test should be carried out straight after a run of at least 10 miles. Beware that if you leave your car at a garage they are likely to test it just when they can! - and unlikely will have taken it on a run beforehand, so the pressure will be higher than the running actual. Having changed what you have, it might not have solved the wear which could have taken place during earlier low oil pressure, so bearings maybe worn. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.