Magnet

Many thanks Mark. Do you know if your model is on an ‘intelligent’ charging system which needs an AGM battery? Sorry, I’m not sure. The fact that the battery is in the boot, should not practically affect the enthusiastic nature of how the car ‘turns over’. Audi would obviously not have designed the car with that issue. If this were mine, I would be double checking that the battery is of the correct type, and not simply the biggest that fits, and as you say, carefully inspect all wiring ( and earths) associated with the starting and charging systems. Although 14.0 volts is slightly below the mid 14s I would expect, it should be adequate - all else being as it should be. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Steve, and indeed a happy Easter to you and yours, and to those who look after this forum for the benefit of us all. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry A - whoever you are - personally I’m not too happy about the lack of detail with you profile, but obviously, I will leave it to Admin to decide whether they consider it to be adequate or not. I guess you know you can PM the seller for further details and a contact number, rather than ask him to show his phone number on an open forum.

Hello Mark, Apologies if these are daft questions, but does your model year require an AGM battery, and if so is that what you have fitted? I raise this since sometimes owners simply replace like for like with what was currently there. Not good practice since a nice previous owner may have retained his near-new battery when selling, and put an old anything-that- fits battery in its place. Also make of your new battery? Having said all that, your theory sounds worth investigating. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lee, Could you please let us know where you have searched so far? Kind regards, Gareth

Hello Gordon, Sounds like it’s worth getting a second opinion on this - with their permission. Many dealer purchase? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Annette, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. I think we are really back in your hands on this, and we need to know what the first recall was for - tyres or something else?? If knowingly for tyres, then I would assume that you would have had a look at them, prior to taking the car in, so you would have been aware of the amount of remaining tread and any uneven wear. Perhaps you could come back to us and clarify. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Was the recall perhaps specifically in relation to the OP’s North American details?

Hello Gordon, When did you buy car - and from a main dealer? You might still be in a position to reject the car as being unfit for service - which it must be if it won’t start! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ciaran, Personally, I think you have made the right decision. Also if it were mine, I would certainly change the water pump as well - if driven by the Cambelt ( sorry I’m not sure with your engine, but someone will advise). I’ve always stuck with Gates kits if I’m not using VAG, and I’m sure they are an OE supplier to VAG anyway. Worth checking with your independent what they will be using. I have found that VAG seem to be much cheaper with water pumps than they used to be - particularly with a bit of discount. As an insurance, I would also renew the auxiliary belt ( driving alternator, air con. compressor) at the same time, since this has to be taken off to do the cambelt anyway, so should be virtually zero additional labour cost. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ciaran, Audi’s recommendation is correct in terms of 5 years or 140k, but the important thing is - whichever comes first. Your car is now approaching 6 years old, so changing the Cambelt assembly is now overdue. You can take a chance and delay it, but a chance it will be, and looking at it logically, you are going to have to pay to get it done at some point, so why not now before it goes too long out of schedule. Kind regards, Gareth.

You are very welcome Ryan. Hope you have some luck in sorting. some expertise around these parts. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry Mark, but your friend’s and your reasoning, just doesn’t lead to reasonable justification to me. Being polite, it might just be me, but…. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry, don’t understand in relation to manual.

Hello Ryan, I may be barking up wrong trees here, but I recall some non-VAG cars having accessible wearing 5th gear cogs easily accessible without major gearbox strip downs. That was sometime ago, but maybe worth keeping in mind. Are you at Bridgend, S. Wales, ( rather than Scotland etc)? If so, many years ago there was a gearbox specialist known as John-the-box on the outskirts of Swansea. Maybe worth asking around the trade if he, or his successors might still be operating. Kind regards, Gareth.

I’m very surprised that this is a ‘manual’ speedometer. By manual, you mean not electronically controlled?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, I this post meant as some sort of advert or promotion for this device? Otherwise, very much as Steve says!

Many thanks Dave, Unfortunately the original poster chose to join the forum, post his plea for help, and has not visited the form since posting, so advice has either not got through, or has not been appreciated - or both. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Edward, Have you tried EBay, registering you want on the on line breaker search links etc? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dudley, Many thanks for the bit of additional information you have provided as an aid to selling your car. It’s not just me then Dudley, but if detail is a key to generate interest, then as the old school report would have said ‘ Could do (a lot) better’! Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Incase it helps - In addition to Joe’s suggestion:- Extent of service history and when last serviced? MOT expiry? No. of owners, and how long you have owned it? Price? Whatever else you feel you would like to add to generate an interest.

Hello Eddie, Thanks for joining the forum and for posting your want. I trust you have tried Ebay for a serviceable secondhand one, advertised your want on one or more of the on line car breaker search websites, and enquired at your local commercial vehicle hydraulics suppliers, who should be able to make you one from your pattern. Perhaps you would be kind enough to come back to us and let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dudley again, Would you now be kind enough to provide a description of the car. It’s apparent that you’ve been back to the forum and read the response, so it would be great if you could follow up on the request made. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ivars, So coil springs not air then. The garage’s description of ‘both rear coil springs dead’ seems rather strange to me (unless you have been continuously carrying heavy loads or heavy passengers) since in my experience coils seldom (suddenly?) develop weaknesses. Snapped springs are certainly not uncommon, but ‘dead’ ?? Re. replacement being too high? We take it you have had the car for some time since you say ‘..used to be able…’ so you will now be experienced in assessing the new ride height against the old pre-problem height. Choosing the correct springs can be a minefield, and aftermarket suppliers can confuse, and indeed may not even cater for some variants - say the Le Mans - and yours gets lumped in with most other variants, and you end up with the garage fitting the springs their motor factors supplier lists, which may or may not be the correct ones. I really don’t like the comment ‘ these are the springs they gave….’ - not very convincing. Positive action:- you will need to Google the correct ride height for your model. The ride height will be quoted in mm. as measured form the wheel centre to the underside of the rear wing ( make sure you adjust all tyre pressures to the correct pressure, and the car is sitting on level ground). Simply compare your actual ride height with the specified height and please let us know the variation if any. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dudley from the Homeland, Apologies for the hopefully constructive opinion, but if you are really hoping to sell the car from your post, then I don’t think you could have been more brief, in your non existent description! Could you please describe the car, it’s mileage, it’s ownership history, it’s service history etc. etc., and the all important price you want for it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kai, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum, and now that we have more valuable information, it’s justifiable that the forum has sympathy with your plight. Obviously there is isn’t any doubt that the car is under warranty, and it understood that the issue was indeed brought to the dealer/manufacturer’s attention while still under the manufacturer’s warranty, which proceeded your extended warranty. It is indeed justifiable to believe that a clutch should last longer than 25k miles, and certainly 21K when first noticed - with the caveat, as Cliff points out - you don’t have any experience of how the car was driven in the 17k miles before you owned it. The hard fact to swallow is that clutches are not covered under the manufacturer’s warranty since they are rightly claimed to be wearing parts. I guess you would need to prove that the issue in your case, is not one of wear, but premature failure of a critical component - impossible without stripping down, and even more difficult to prove (in caps) at that time. Yes, you could challenge the warranty, but that can be costly in terms of specialist advice/inspection reports, appearances at court - all of which adds up and will certainly be time consuming in vehicle-off-the-road time. You don’t share with us, the (subsidised) costings which the Audi dealer has agreed, but it might be worth you considering that VAG clutch component prices to buy, are very high, so the ‘they pay for parts, you pay for labour’ may be a better compromise that the vice versa situation. OK, pessimistic overall view, but this may be the best deal you are going to get, without engaging in protracted battle, but of course, it’s up to you to decide whether you wish to compromise ,or put up a reasonable fight. Perhaps you could let us know what you decide Kai. Kind regards, Gareth.

OK Mike. I can now better interpret your concern, and the consequence of renewing the flexible hoses - which will result in the ends of the metal brake pipes being ‘destroyed’ by trying to separate the two. Not meaning to cause offence, but it’s clear to me that you are not going to rest easy until you have renewed these serviceable hoses, so really, the general opinion of the forum is not what you want to hear - and that’s OK too. I fear it’s not going to be any consolation to your way of thinking, but in 60 years of motoring, I’ve never experienced an unexpected and catastrophic failure of what appears to be a serviceable brake hose, following normal inspection at service intervals, but I might have been lucky -? You say, these could fail at some point, even when abroad, but why not be positive, and think they won’t - following your normal inspection. Sods Law will point to component B subsequently failing when you are worrying about the potential of component A failing! Again, with my negative hat on now, this could turn into one of those jobs where you wished you had left well alone! I really hope it doesn’t, but… Apologies Mike, but I don’t feel I can offer any more meaningful advice with this. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. If you are minded to still go ahead with this - and I’m sure you are - is it worth getting a fine intense heat source and heating the hose to pipe connection in the hope that may help free the two from one another? Nothing lost if you still have to replace the metal pipe as well as the flexible.