Magnet

Thanks Paul, Even if it does turn out to be sub-standard, then it should be under warranty. If it’s serviceable then obviously you have at least eliminated it. What make is the battery by the way? Worth getting Halfords to do an alternator test at the same time. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stewart, Welcome, and thanks for joining. That’s one heck of a parasitic drain. Possible draining back through a faulty alternator? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, I think you will find that such issues could be linked to an inefficient battery, so my first port of call would be to eliminate or confirm that possibility. I would take the car for a 15 to 20 mile run, then get the battery efficiency check - Halfords can do this. Buying a necessary replacement from Halfords- ? Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Carey, Was you £3000 ono your opinion of what you think Andreas’ car is worth? If so, are you now wishing to withdraw that opinion? Kind regards, Gareth.

Have you e-mailed PinM and given them your reg. no.and VIN, and asked for their advice? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Graeme, Many thanks for the in-fill details, but it still points to Audi being to blame here - which of course they are - and little to do with how are we going to temporarily get out of this mess in a much more efficient manner than their initial attempt. Without meaning to be patronising, I feel for you and our Steve Y who are totally dependable on your vehicle to put bread on your table, and this boiled down to now having to help yourself. If this were mine, I would be spending my time trying to find someone who is capable of making a far more reliable temporary repair than your friendly local dealer are - end of, in my book - since I feel you cannot afford to do anything else. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Graeme, Obviously the situation is intolerable, but to me, the emphasis should be on obtaining suitable substitutes rather than concentrating on how/why Audi has allowed this situation to deteriorate - that is not being progressive. If this were mine, I would concentrating my efforts on inspecting the faulty component (pipe?) and thinking about some better mode of repair than resin goo. Surely a reliable repair/modification would not be beyond the scope of a small engineering shop. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Matt, I think we all genuinely feel for you, but at least you will have learnt from your bad experience, and I think we have all been there at some time. As I mentioned earlier, in future I would try to have an experienced person with you to actually tech you/ you watch them, before embarking on any other jobs. There will be a lot to learn, but you can get there. Now, how are you going to get this car to a garage without doing damage, since you have drained off some gearbox oil, and you live in hope that you have successfully replaced the oil filter and are confident you have it seated correctly and won’t have any leaks, and that you are able to confirm the current oil level is where it has to be. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Incidentally, what brands of oil and filter have you bought? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Matt, This concerns, since any oil which has been in the sump of a diesel engine - for even the shortest of time - will be black. So ‘clear’ will certainly ring alarm bells. Appreciating everyone has to start DIY mechanics somewhere, and I don’t want to make this too critical, but since you are asking if the sump plug is the same as the drain plug, it really does demonstrate that you are on A of the mechanic’s alphabet, and that’s fine, but I think you would be well advised to have someone by your side who has a bit more experience, and can guide you through. Now, clear oil might be expected from the gearbox ( if it has a drain plug) and one begins to wonder whether you have indeed removed a wrong plug. Having said that, 200/300mls would be a small quantity to run out of there, whatever angle the car is at, but to run out of the engine sump of a diesel engine just seems to ring alarm bells to me. Photos of what you’ve done Matt, so we can try to help? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andreas, If you are not sure on price, list it on EBay and let it find its price. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keith, Welcome and thanks for joining. Try entering your registration number into ‘Parts in Motion’ website, and they should come up with a variety of brands of parts. In terms of rear suspension bushes, just go for the complete arms - they are that expensive. Incase it helps, I’ve used Febi parts to good avail. I wouldn’t buy on cheapest will do. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I don’t have any connection with Parts in Motion, except having bought a variety of parts off them and had a good service and competitive prices.

Hello Vic, There are specialist kits, but I’ve always used Fabsil on my non-Audis. However, if the hood is dirty or faded then do not use Fabsil until it is clean and re-coloured. I think it’s Renovo who do the colouring kit, and probably the Fabsil equivalent. When applying Fabsil or similar ( and indeed dye) always start at one edge, above the door, and work towards the middle, then nip around the other side and continue from the middle to the opposite side. This minimises the risk of an inevitable tide mark if you start in the middle and work out to the edges. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Radu, Unfortunately, I cannot help you with this, but I would suggest you get a local independent specialist opinion without delay. Re. the Adblue delete:- does this render it no longer ULEZ compliant ?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Terry, You could also try listing your ‘want’ on the on line car breaker link sites such as Partsfinder ( there are more). With EBay - try their international sites. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Ellie, My normal first port of call is to eliminate any fractured wires within the flexible harness section into the tailgate/boot, but I feel your car isn’t generally oiled enough to suffer with this problem at this time. Worth an elimination though -?? Do you have a multi meter, and are you handy with it? If not, then I too would suggest you leave this in the hands of a trusted local auto electrician. Kind regards, Gareth.

Ok, I understand 120mA is far better than 1.15A., but still too high if everything has ‘gone to sleep’.

Hello Juan, So are you thinking .12 amp (120mA) is OK? I would have thought the ‘fully shut down’ current draw should be more like 50 to 60mA. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Carey, I take it my response to your earlier-today advert, in an attempt to minimise the risk of you being bothered by potential money making buyers, as opposed to finding the car a good home, was not well received. Please excuse my interference, albeit it was aimed at your benefit not mine. Kind regards, Gareth.

The simple answer to that Zaheed, is to just ask the seller to show it to you - you really don’t have to worry about where it’s kept. Having said that, it normally lives in the foam tray below the boot floor, where the jacket etc. is - providing it has a spare wheel rather than the pressurised goo. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Carey, Many thanks for posting your advert, and sorry to hear you are having to sell your pride and joy. I would stop ( in caps) at this point and reconsider the price you are prepared to take for this. My first impression is that it is too low, and although you might want a quick sale, I fear that you may well attract buyers who are only out make money on it, and may include folks who you might not want coming to your door. I’m not sure what We Buy any Car would value it at, but that could give you an idea of the absolute rock bottom price. I might well be barking up the wrong tree here, but I’ve taken the liberty of removing your price until you’ve had a chance to give it a second coat of thinking about. Trust you are OK with that for the moment. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Perhaps you can send replies me or one of the other Moderators, rather that through an additional post.

Thanks Dave, glad it’s sorted. Bearing serviceability ‘off load’ may give you the impression it’s OK. Under load - totally different! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Karl, Thanks for joining, and welcome. Where have you tried to obtain the part? A main dealer should be able to supply this part, but I would suggest taking the part along together with a photo of its location on the car. I would certainly do this via. a visit, rather than over the phone. Other options:- EBay for some suitable alternative that meets the basic dimensions. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry to ask for more detail Ellie, but which ones work and which don’t? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks David. Checked tyres for any abnormalities? - then swop back for fronts to see if noise changes tone-source.

Hello Dave, Sorry to hear of your issue. Re. the noise you think is from the gearbox:- Is this noise the same in every gear? Is it the same when you accelerate, and does it alter when you decelerate? Have you checked the gearbox oil level? All the above may be useful to be knowledgeable on before returning the car. As an aside, wheel bearing associated noises normally change as you go around bends, as the stresses are placed on or off the bearings. Good luck with sorting it out, but it would be a bit of a coincidence that the gearbox develops issues directly after the clutch has been renewed. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. It might be worthwhile to have an independent opinion on the issue before you return the car for checking.