Magnet

Hello Andy, This could be as simple as the folding mechanism needing some assisted lubrication - try a little WD40 as a start. if indeed you do have switch issues ( which would be unusual) then if you don’t have the knowledge or equipment to check that, then you would be best advised to buy an hour’s labour with a trusted local auto electrician. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlotte, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear of your issue. When you say the car won’t go more than 40mph, could you confirm that if you attempt to increase that speed, the engine revs. increase, but the car doesn’t accelerate - as would be typical of clutch slip. Also that the car will indeed go above 40 mph down hill, but possibly not even 40 -up hill. Others may confirm or refute, but I think I recall a similar issue with another forum member within the last 18months. What to do from here if it actually clutch slip:- Continue to badger Audi for a sensible resolution - which may include a partial payment towards the costs. Take a small claims court action against the dealer you bought it from. ( CAB should be able to advise). If these fail, then it could be a matter of biting the bullet and getting it sorted at an independent - possibly using the far cheaper LUK aftermarket parts. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Zack, Simple things first:- The lower the profile ( the 60, 45 etc. bit) the harsher the ride will be, and to increase your wheel diameter the you are going to have to lower the profile, so that the outside diameter of wheel plus tyre remains the same as your current 60 profile 185 15 inch wheels. You can work it out by adding 2 x (60% of 185mm) to 15 inches - converted to mm. (1 inch = 25.4mm). Audi have really worked it out for you, in terms of acceptable larger-wheel alternatives, which you have listed. Messing about with alternative tyre sizes because they are cheaper ( due to popularity) can be a recipe for disaster and seldom works out, either economically - since you have to buy the larger wheels, or comfort-wise, due to lower profiles, or indeed with the insurance implications for fitting non standard wheels and tyres. In answer to ‘...will 205 be too wide..’ No, since Audi list up to 225. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Zack, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. You raise a good question, since simply swopping wheel and tyre sizes is not at all straightforward in terms of acceptability - and that’s before you consider the insurance liability by fitting such non standard critical items. Can you start by letting us know the current tyre size, and confirm this is a listed size for your model. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Andrew. Indeed -‘ full of it could be.....’. As in wheel sensor s! Sorry, I couldn’t resist that. Again on a can’t resist it basis:- ‘35 years’ then. I’ve got brogues older than that, and I’m still learning! Apologies and kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Andrew. I think you’ve summed it up with ‘.....always check wheel speed sensors first’. Problem is which one (without the recommended diagnostics in this case -in caps) and how do you check it - or all four - without replacing them? Kind regards, Gareth.

I too share the view that diagnostics is not the be all and end all - and I’m pretty sure Cliff shares that viewpoint. Again, I have stated on here (as Steve now quotes) that the cause-and-effect principle is (very) often overlooked at the owners peril and cost. Having said that, in cases like this, it certainly is a valuable tool which allows you to home in towards a particular component/wheel. Yes, it’s OK to state ‘it was component x’ on my car, but it infers that it will then be component x on the poster’s car - this is of course no more than (a potentially expensive) assumption. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and I think you are wise to question this, since it’s not at all uncommon for owners to fit smaller capacity batteries on a so called cost saving principle. Apologies, but I’m not making much of the photo, so perhaps we can get back to first principles:- Have you asked the owner to check under ‘Technical specifications’ ( or whatever the section is called) in the owner’s handbook? This should give you the recommended Ah and CCA rating for the battery - under Petrol engines. It’s not uncommon for battery compartments to accommodate a ‘standard’ size battery, and a longer battery ( higher rated) normally fitted to the diesel variant, and the physically bigger battery can usually be fitted to the petrol engine if desired. Equally important as the battery capacity, is the battery quality, and personally, I only buy Varta/Bosch with a minimum of 4 years warranty - buying on line from specialist suppliers, at best prices. Battery Megastore, and Tayna (there are more) have been used to good effect. Tip:- You should find they sell on EBay with free delivery, but usually charge delivery if ordered direct! Why?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Craig, If the garage thinks it’s the water pump, then I would be tempted to look for another garage! Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Andrew. Indeed it could (in caps) be a wheel sensor - but which one - if any one?? It could also be a weak signal from a hub - so diagnostics should at least point to the offending wheel. Strange but we are not hearing from the original poster despite visiting the forum less than a few hours ago. Kind regards, Gareth.

Apologies vdm. Doesn’t seem like anyone else has had the same issue as you, and unfortunately it unfortunately looks like the forum isn’t going to be of any help on this occasion - unless someone comes up with something at the last minute. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Paul, but...... So we are still to hear from Chris - the original poster? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Paul, but do you go on spending on parts (and labour?) until you find the culprit? I know what I’d rather do, and I’m not a fan of diagnostics! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello David, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. Appreciating your daughter has returned the car to an Audi dealer on 4 or 5 occasions - without success? - Audi has to sort the problem under warranty. Worth trying another dealer? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Paul, It could indeed be the offender - along with a lot of other possibilities. Apologies for repeating, but other than simply replacing anything/everything , the only alternative would be plug it into the diagnostics - as recommended to Chris, the original poster. Unfortunately, Chris is yet to let us know how far he has progressed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Lawrence, Many thanks for being in touch, and good on you for hanging on to,and maintaining your 1996 A4. Specialist breakers of older Audis?? - but I would suggest you keep an eye on EBay for anything you want. This is always a good source. Have you had a look at ‘Modern Classics’ magazine? Again a useful source for being able to advertise for what you may want. Are you aware that your Audi should qualify for cheap classic car insurance? - subject to certain conditions of use. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Craig, The EML could be due to any number of issues - which will only be assessed on a diagnostic check. Heater issue - could be matrix, or other some issues associated with controls. Again can only be assessed on inspection and testing. Apologies, but you shouldn’t need to concern yourself about what is causing the problems, but just how they are to be resolved. ’......warranty company are asking me to take it .......’. My belief is that you shouldn’t have to be dealing with the warranty company at this very early period in your ownership - 2 weeks - but the responsibility for sorting it should first rest directly with the seller, not the warranty company. Be careful you are not being led down the wrong road - which I feel you might be! Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Craig, Thanks for being in touch with the forum, and sorry to hear you are having a little difficulty with your just-purchased A3. I think reasonable advice would be not to try to self-investigate the possible causes of the two problems, but simply return the car to the seller, and request they sort out the issues under warranty. Personally, I would be following up every communication with an e-mail, confirming the issues discussed and the actions to be taken. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ronny, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. I too can understand your initial frustration about the transmitter being the rear bumper ( although, apologies, but I cannot share your views on the abbreviated language bit). I guess on further thought, Audi are logically keeping your best safety interests in mind by not putting it in the front bumper, since if they did, they would be encouraging driving into the garage, and consequently reversing out on to the road - not good safe practice! I think you will find that insurers can actually lower premiums for car parked on the road as opposed to parked on a driveway - yes I know it sounds daft, but apparently there is a far greater risk of collision by reversing out onto a roadway - actually makes sense. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chet, We take it you are looking to buy secondhand parts -? If so, have you tried registering your ‘wants’ on the car breaker link systems such as Partsfinder? - there are more. You shouldn’t need the parts numbers. Kind regards, Gareth.

Wondered what questions you have about this 4 year old ‘For Sale’ topic Erick.

Hello Graham, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. Since you have only just bought it, why not treat it to an oil and filter change, using the correct grade and handbook-stated quantity of oil, so you know it will then be at the correct level, and you can monitor it from there. Start off from a good base point by using say, Quantum oil, and a genuine VAG filter. If not using a Vag filter, then I would only use Mann or Bosch as aftermarket alternative. Kind regards, Gareth.

As Steve says - with the emphasis on treating only one bush at a time. Otherwise you won’t know which is the offending one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Christopher, If 5w/30 fully synthetic is the handbook-recommended oil , and you have been using Quantum Longlife, why do you want to deviate from it? Is the car using oil? If you are insistent on deviating - since some suggest you do (will be advantageous?) then I would stay away from semi synthetic 10w/40 ( synthetic technology as some marketing executives wish to call it!). Appreciate there has been some recent debate about it on here, but I would prefer to maintain my opinion about using it - but that’s my opinion. Perhaps you could let us know why you prefer to move away from 5w/30 Christopher. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Wayne, If the car has been well maintained, oil and filter wise, then 162K should not dictate an engine rebuild. Noisy? Well worth getting the degree and origins of the noise diagnosed, before doing anything. Engine rebuilders (if necessary)? Comparatively few and far between these days, since engines last far longer than they used to, so you are going to struggle to find someone to do this - at any (considerable) cost. The only possibilities would be via. specialist classic car engine rebuilders - Google should come up with something if needed, but expect to pay well into four figures. Respray? If you are contemplating again spending four figure sums in this direction, then I would be approaching some local classic car owners and asking advice there. Body shops have generally developed into accident repair centres, allied to insurance companies, and they tend to turn away general full scale respray work on older vehicles, due to encountering the ‘unknown’. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Wayne. Kind regards, Gareth.