cliffcoggin

It looks like a fuel filler nozzle so I guess it means low fuel level. What does the fuel guage show?

If your battery is original it may well be the problem here.

Congratulations on getting Audi to behave responsibly. I hope for a similar outcome to everyone suffering a similar problem

You won't get an answer from dominic, he has not bothered to return to the forum since posting his question. Search recent forum history and you will find similar topics with a lot of useful information.

Try this company which dealt well with my A3 for years and I thoroughly recommend it. Michael Summers is reliable and honest. Nearly as important is that you get to speak directly to him. Whitstable to Biddenden is more than an hour of travel, but desperate times call for desperate measures. https://msautoservices.com/

I hope I am not muddying the waters here, but I wonder if this topic is related to yours which also concerns the "mild hybrid".

Thank you. Politeness is a rarity here.

Check the CV (constant velocity) joints in the drive shafts. It is likely they are worn.

Tell the insurer. If the insurer tells you it makes no difference to your policy and premium you have lost nothing.

This is the fourth time you have posted the same message without any explanation, which to me looks like spam. Either you post your solution on the forum or I will ban you.

A few more details of the car and your asking price would be useful.

That's a good idea, but let me add a word of caution. Many of those products contain caustic soda which can wreak havoc on many metals, paints, and fabrics, as well as human tissue, so flush it well afterwards with lots of water.

Andy. You're right, the turbo should last a lot longer than 5000 miles. Possibly the oil feed is not sufficient, though I would not know what to do about that. A question for you first: has the car or engine modified in any way for better performance?

Now we are getting somewhere. If I understand correctly the right front & rear door locks always work, the left front & rear door locks sometimes work, while the boot lock never works. The drivers door lock is the important one here as it controls all the others. I suspect there is a fault on that lock and suggest you get it tested either by an auto electrician or by Audi. It is not an uncommon problem.

If you can get into the car I presume that means the doors do unlock. Correct? And is that both doors or just one?

If I recall correctly each sidelight has a separate fuse, so the problem is more likely to be the switch. Fuse and fusebox locations will be in the car handbook if such things exist still.

Thanks for letting us know.

I am not sure what is not working so please clarify whether you mean the electronic fob, the metal key, or the central locking mechanism within the car.

Fair enough, but if you don't mean a delayed response what do you mean?

Perhaps I am misunderstanding what you meant by "taking a while to get some bite." Please explain.

The springs (there are several of them,) separate the two lumps of metal that constitute a DMF, thus providing some rotary cushioning between them. The arangement is similar to those in a clutch friction plate if you are familiar with one of those. When one or more springs break, the two lumps of metal (the dual masses in other words) smash against each other, which is why you hear a rattle initially that soon becomes a knock as more metal disintegrates.

Which is precisely why neither pads nor discs should need to be changed. If you have a delayed response when pressing the brake pedal I suggest the fault is elsewhere, such as an air lock, a partially seized caliper, a defective servo etc. Be sure what the cause of the problem is before throwing money at the car.

It's possible a spring has broken in the DMF, though other possibilities should be considered before booking it for repair. It's a common fault in old DMFs, and will inevitably get worse. It would be worth getting the clutch done at the same time, even though it will add a lot to the cost, much of which is the labour charge involved in removing the gearbox.

Is it a manual transmission with a dual mass flywheel?

Light scoring should not affect braking effect once the pads have bedded in. Are you sure you don't have a soft pedal caused by air? Or perhaps a faulty servo? It would be worth taking it back to the dealer who sold you the car for rectification before the guarantee, such as is, runs out. If you are concerned about the degree of wear you could measure the disc thickness.