cliffcoggin

It's true I can not help you Josh if you are not prepared to either do any testing or provide suitable information to aid a possible diagnosis. If all you want is speculation and guesses then you don't need my help. After all you claim to be "fairly car literate and I'm usually able diagnose and know the problem..."

I looked up Power Engines and saw the company supply new and re-conditioned engines, so can you be sure the engine you received was genuinely new? The company lists this for your car:

https://powerengines.com/collections/all?filter.p.m.custom.make=Audi&filter.p.m.custom.model=Q5&filter.p.m.custom.year_multi_selects=2016

The price of $3199 is impossibly low for a brand new engine, even before it is shipped from Germany, so what do you conclude from that?

Good luck with your project. It's been decades since I had any engines re-bored & re-shelled, and would not know where to get such work done now.

20 minutes ago, crashoverride said:

Real world trouble shooting and diagnostics has to occur

OK, then do so, and tell us the results of such things as compression tests, injector tests, CO emission, and oil consumption. It would also help to know of modifications that have been made and ECU mapping. The only actions you have mentioned are three fuel pump changes without telling us the reason. Was the fuel pressure tested before changing the pump?

53 minutes ago, crashoverride said:

Where do I start in trying to diagnose..??

Connect it to diagnostic code reader.

Gregg.

Any engine of that era is likely to have significant wear, so you would be better off trying to get yours re-conditioned.

2 hours ago, Zacy2566 said:

The A/c has stopped working.

That's not a symptom; that's supposition.

2 hours ago, Zacy2566 said:

If it’s a hot day it just blows warm air regardless if it is set on cold.

Is it the same temperature from every vent, or just one? What happens when the temperature setting is raised to hot.

The cooling system of AC does not block up. It commonly loses its gas through leaks, or the compressor can fail, or the belt can snap.

Perhaps it is an air duct that has been blocked by a failed flap motor. Please give some symptoms of the problem.

I have never heard of them. Would you provide a link to the equipment please?

3 hours ago, vr6bro said:

it has a bent steering arm so drives like it has a really bad alignment, gets good drift angle though, tyres r shredded to bits after i couldnt help my self but drive. i think theres no other option but to bend the hinge, dont really care about the other stuff its not as major as this for me.

A chassis or steering misalignment will make the car unsafe to drive, so you really should care about it.

Presumably NZ has some sort of compulsory road worthiness test? If it is anything like ours the car could fail the test.

Bryce.

What was the point of asking a question here if you do not return to read any replies?

If your reserve of 10 litres truly equates to 30 miles of range I reckon the gauge calibration is faulty.

Believing the rings are worn is not the same as having evidence of it. In your position I would carry out a compression test before making any decisions.

Bon voyage. Do let us know the ratio of working vs non-working charge points.

Does your car not have a CCS charging port?

For what it's worth my own car can only utilise type 2. I will not take it outside its home charging range because the majority of public type 2 charge points in Kent have been abandoned by their operators, and can not supply electricity. I have no reason to believe it is any different at your end of the country so I consider your proposed road trip to be very risky if you are reliant on type 2.

I have not the faintest idea what you are referring to, so how about giving us some details. We don't charge by the word.

Any update for us Wayne?

There is something I don't understand here. Why, if you bought it three years ago, are you now having to pay another £13000?

1 hour ago, cockneyrick said:

Stage 1 about 3 years ago.

Now you tell us! No wonder the engine is a wreck.

I suspect the sensors for the window travel are faulty, but I really don't know anything about them. A diagnostic code reader should be able to pinpoint the problem.

Richard.

Are you really referring to low coolant pressure warning? I suspect you mean low oil pressure.

The 1.4 TFSI engines of that era were notorious for their skinny piston rings causing dramatic losses of oil which would explain the low compression readings and failed sniff test. The only realistic solution is installation of redesigned pistons and rings at great expense. Whether the coolant loss is related I can not say.

Your first garage was right to suggest renewing belts and water pump at the same time because they would be due in 10000 miles and would need another engine strip down to install them, so it is cheaper to have the lot done at the same time.

In its present condition I doubt that the car is worth more than £1000. Do you love it enough to spend several thousand pounds on it?

A good result.

For your collection or for sale to your customers?

https://veridian-automotive.com/

1 hour ago, Magnet said:

Oil is cheaper than engines, or changing cars Ian!

Very true, but if the lost oil is coming out of the exhaust, either burnt or intact, it could lead to blockages and/or emissions.

16 minutes ago, Newa5fan said:

By the way what is .ogg?

It is one of many audio formats.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_file_format

Perhaps the Audi system does not recognise .mp4 format and you need to use an alternative such as .ogg.