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cliffcoggin

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Posts posted by cliffcoggin

  1. 9 hours ago, Stavros said:

    I have tried the re-programming approach to lower and hold for 10-15 seconds and then raise and hold for 10-15 seconds. But not sure if I am doing it right or if there is an authoritative source on the exact process? Maybe I need the ignition on?

    That is the right technique, but the ignition needs to be on.

  2. 3 hours ago, adama078 said:

    Cost me £150 for the car and £50 on repairs. More than happy to scrap it if it fails.

    A pity you did not mention that earlier. Given how cheap the car was, you must have wasted almost as much money on the new pedal and the new master cylinder. Money you could have spent on a slave cylinder.

  3. Realistically Dillon, and assuming you have shopped around for better prices, with your age against you all you can do is swap the car for an older, cheaper, less powerful vehicle, and park it in a garage overnight if possible.

  4. Evidently the matter is not doing Stuart's head at all as he has not returned to the forum since joining, and he has wasted everyone's time. Oh well, that's another one for the blacklist.

  5. The difference between front and rear is only the tyre widths, not the diameters, so in that respect they are safe. Whether they should be the same width in regard to wear and handling may be a different matter as I am aware that Quattros are sensitive to mismatching of tyres. I'll leave that for somebody more knowledgeable to answer.

    I too wonder why narrower tyres have been fitted to the front. Was it for economy or could it have been because the suspension has been modified to need more clearance from wheel arches? It would be worth investigating the suspension before spending money on new tyres.

  6. 2 hours ago, Stevey Y said:

    the bolts without the points will work you just have to start them carefully, the chamfered bolts were designed so any Whelk on the production line could blast the bolts in with an air ratchet,

    It wouldn't hurt to grind a small chamfer on the bolts to ease them into the holes.

  7. 1 hour ago, Kian said:

    Hi mate, a new battery was installed by a garage 2 weeks before the issues started as a resistor for the heating was draining the battery.

    And was it coded to the car?

  8. A dying battery can cause all those symptoms so the first thing to do is get tested professionally, not a multimeter voltage reading. If a new battery is needed get it coded to the car.

    Only after proving the power supply is sound is it worth investigating any remaining symptoms.

  9. If the Audi dealer found no faults at the first diagnosis how much reliance can you place on his second attempt? Then there is AI which has given you a list of possible faults, but no certainties. Are you going to spend money on that basis?

    I suggest you find an independent VAG specialist who can test the car with a decent code reader such as VCDS, and let him do the diagnosis before committing to any expenditure.





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