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cliffcoggin

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Posts posted by cliffcoggin

  1. I'd agree it is a fault in the linkage rather than the gearbox. The cable adjustment may have loosened at the gearbox end, or the cable mounting bracket may be loose. You will need to examine the whole linkage to find where the slack is. I have not done the job myself but the Haynes manual suggests a complicated juggling of springs and locking collars to detach the cables.

  2. Emma.

    I would largely agree with Jason that repair costs are going to increase as the car ages and wear accrues. So from a maintenance perspective it would make sense to get rid of it, but that takes no account of sentiment.

    On the other hand what are you going to replace it with? An expensive newer car will likely have fewer faults and lower maintenance costs, but a cheap old banger will be worse than your existing car. As the old adage goes "sometimes better the devil you know".

    It comes down to what you can afford to invest against the cost of keeping the A4.

  3. Alan.

    Are you sure it isn't a leak from the rear wash pipe, which is a common problem? The pipe can split or the seal in the wiper motor can fail, both of which can lead to water in the boot.

    If you are sure the lid seal has been permanently over crushed then nothing can be done to restore the rubber's elasticity. From what I remember the rubber does not need to make an absolutely water tight seal as long as it is close enough to guide water into the drainage channels formed by the shape of the steel lid and body. However I don't have my A3 any more to check this point so I can not be certain.

    One other thing occurs to me. Is the boot lid closing enough to make a seal? Has the lid been twisted recently or the latch moved?

  4. David.

    I am going to leave this matter in Jason's hands as he knows far more than me, but I will add two comments.

    I don't believe the statement that the reversing lights are on the same fuse as the aircon and something else. The whole idea of having multiple fuses is to ensure each circuit is independant of the others, so that failure of one does not affect other circuits. What is your source for this information?

    I am not a fan of computer diagnoses without careful interpretation, however yours shows two instances of short circuits at the bolbs which suggests to me that the wiring is damaged or there is still water present somewhere in the light unit.

    • Like 1
  5. My 2007 model had a permanently live socket. I don't know about later models.

    A permanently live socket was fine when used for its original purpose of lighting a cigarette: current only flowed for 20 seconds, so there was no significant drain on the battery. Nowadays it is often labelled as an auxillary power socket, and is used for all sorts of electronic gadgets which might draw power continuously. The consumption of a phone charger is small and will stop when the phone is fully charged, but there has been a case on this forum of a dashcam draining the car battery because it continued operating after the ignition was switched off.

    • Like 1
  6. Aram.

    Two possibilities to consider:

    A3 instrument panels are prone to failure, usually with flickering lights or the instruments simply die. I have not heard of such a fault causing the engine to die. The panels can be repaired by specialists at a much lower cost than a new Audi panel.

    A defective battery can cause seemingly unrelated electronic problems with, for examples, cruise control, radio, air conditioning etc. Again I have not heard of such a fault causing the engine to die. Even if your battery starts the car easily it does not mean it is in good condition. If it is more than perhaps five years old it would be worth buying a new one. Don't forget to get it coded to the car.

  7. 7 hours ago, Jonew said:

    as it’s out of time due to the tensioner breaking,I’ve seen posts on replacements etc but none show a broken chain etc 

    I doubt that you will. Chain breakage is something I have never heard of. Chains stretch enough to jump their sprockets or sometimes chew through the casings, but they do not break.

  8. 14 hours ago, Deborah said:

    My new car is a 2018 model and the independent specialist advised 5 years. I do around 80 miles a day to and from work, so will look at changing next year as advised, I was quoted £615 for Cam belt and water pump, so will also enquire re the auxiliary belt too so thanks.

     

    By my arithmetic that would take the car to about 67000 miles in 12 months time which does not sound unreasonable. If that cost of £615 includes VAT I would bite his arm off to get the job done at that price. Mine was a shade over £700 about five years ago.

    Many modern cars will remind you by a dashboard message to get the service done shortly before the appropriate mileage. Whether yours has that capability I do not know.

  9. Glad to hear it Deborah.

    Regarding the cam belt change, I don't know what the Audi recommendation for your model is. My 2007 model needed to be changed every 70000 miles. Note that it will be an expensive job, but should not be postponed because the consequences of a belt failure would cost very much more, i.e. many thousands of pounds.

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