cliffcoggin

I realise that. I was agreeing with Steve Q's suggestion that the heater matrix might be blocked, and commenting on the likely cost of renewing it. The water pump and cam belt would never have cured lack of heat in the cabin, though they may well have been necessary for other reasons. Count yourself lucky the job was so cheap at only £500; it would have been half as much again at most places.

Why would you try such a thing? It's a car, not a boat.

I consider myself lucky to have paid no tax, (or Road Fund License as I still think of it,) for three years so I am not unhappy. Roads need to be paid for, and if it was not Rayner taxing us it would be another Chancellor of any political persuasion you care to name. Sorry chaps, but I shall continue to discretely laugh up my sleeve at you unfortunate fellows paying exorbitant prices for liquid fuel plus duty plus 20% VAT, while I refuel on cheap overnight electricity plus 5% VAT.

I see many reports in the forums of Adblue problems caused by crystallisation that normally require expensive replacement of tanks/pumps/sensors etc. As a chemist and a chemical enginner I know that the main component of the stuff is urea which is very easily soluble in water, so in principle it should be simple to clear any blockage by flushing with water. Has anybody tried to do such a thing? I realise it would need some sort of electronic interface to the car to force open valves and run the pump and so on. That sort electrickery is well beyond my competence, and as my A3 predates Adblue I have no experience of it, hence my question here.

Please let us know the outcome.

Unfortunately a private sale leaves you little chance of recompense. It's strange a modification has been done on such a new car. Did he use it to tow caravans by any chance?

Hundreds of pounds sound about normal for new heater matrix. Look up similar threads on this forum for more detail.

Nice result Mark. Any idea how many hours of work it needed?

Sorry Mike, I meant to write independant VAG specialist as opposed to Audi dealer. It was getting late in the evening.

I have read of the same trick elsewhere. Not much use to me as mine is taxed from February.

Glyn. Did you buy the car from Edinburgh Auto or from a private vendor?

Have you eliminated wheel balance and tyre wear as a first step? If so, I agree bearings or brakes are most likely, but don't dismiss CV, steering, and suspension joints as possible causes.

That would depend on which engine is fitted, which you have not mentioned.

Edd. The normal amount of water to be expected in oil is none, zero, nil, nada. That you have had some emulsion from the time you bought the car 18 months ago indicates the engine was defective when purchased, so it is not surprising it is now a lot worse and is in urgent need of attention to avoid complete seizure. I suggest you stop using it immediately. Head gasket failure is the least probable cause of the problem, and would usually show itself with other symptoms.

You were lucky to keep the car running for two years with a defective battery. You would not believe the number of members here who will not accept that a battery can be faulty if it starts the car or still has over 12 volts. Possibly the fuel pressure message is genuine. Consider taking the car to a VAG specialist rather than an Audi dealer for diagnosis and repair.

That's unfortunate. I can't make any other suggestion except to engage an auto electrician.

Please do tell us what the hole is intended for, and what needs to be done about it.

If threats fail Tony, try beating it severely with a rose bush. It didn't work for John Cleese, but you might just be lucky. Nevertheless I'd still take it in for testing.

Sorry, the black dot in your picture looked like a plug. Is the hole round or rough? Threaded or smooth? Parallel or tapered? Is the metal around it cracked? How best to repair it depends on what the hole leads into.

Search for EGR (exhaust gas recirculation).

That it leaks more when the engine is running suggests it is the shaft seal. Speculating further, is it possible the crankcase ventilation is not working properly? I am wondering if excess pressure in the crankcase is actively blowing oil out.

I have no personal experience, but from what I have read the problem is caused by crystallisation. That being so it should be possible to flush the system with water to dissolve the urea.

Years ago there would have been individual setting levers in the edge of each door. I don't know if that is the case nowadays but worth looking. Does the handbook mention anything?

The days of regarding Audi as prestige cars have gone. The company is just another manufacturer fighting to gain market share by any cost cutting means possible.

If it is the crankshaft seal that is leaking, there is a distinct possibility that after 240000 miles the sealing surface on the shaft is also worn to the point that a new seal will not stop the leak. That would be a very expensive fix, and to cap it all you won't know until the engine is stripped.