cliffcoggin

You are legally entitled to reject defective goods so take it back to the dealer and demand a refund.

Well Mohame, was the advice you asked for of any use?

Thanks Terry.

Rob, sorry I got your name wrong. I was thinking of another member at the time of writing.

Thanks for letting us know.

An internet search for "EPC fault" showed me several possibilities that would be worth investigating, though I must add that I have no direct experience of it myself.

David. Did you investigate this matter any further? An update would be appreciated.

Tom. 110 psi seems a bit low for a modern engine, so I think it likely your valve stems are bent. The only way to be certain is to remove the heads and valves, then roll the stems on a flat surface. Any bend will be immediately obvious. An increase in compression after putting some oil in the bore usually indicates a busted ring, so your problems may be worse than you think.

Tom. That's logical nonsense. If there is nothing wrong with the car it must start, therefore there must be something wrong. Diagnosing unexplained electrical faults should always start with the battery. Without a decent battery no amount of testing will get you anywhere, so please tell us how old the battery is. Bear in mind that a dying battery may be able to crank the engine, yet be unable to supply stable enough power for the car's electronics to work.

The process on my wife's Skoda is: - press the LOCK button, all doors and boot lock, - press the UNLOCK button once, only the driver's door unlocks, - press the UNLOCK button twice, all doors and boot unlock, -press the BOOT button, only the boot unlocks. It relocks itself on closure.

Regarding the passenger door lock: it is common in some VAG models for that door and the boot to require a double press of the key fob. It's a security feature to prevent unwanted strangers jumping into the car.

Trevor. I have merged your duplicate topics into one. Please don't create duplicates, it will not gain you any more attention.

The wiring damage may not be visible externally. You could have: a break in a conductor inside intact insulation, a poor contact in one of the connectors, a short circuit inside one the components, or possibly other faults I have not thought of.

I'd say the problem is electrical, so I suggest you get the battery and alternator tested professionally as a first step. It doesn't matter what voltage you measure, the battery may still be defective enough to interfere with the ignition system.

Thank you. I hadn't heard of that one.

It looks like a Torx fastener. They come in a range of metric sizes and are available at most tool merchants.

Thanks for letting us know. I shall lock this topic to avoid it being revived in the future.

What's that?

Wouldn't the simplest solution be to ask an Audi dealer?

If I had not seen the picture I would not have believed six bolts could shear off. Thanks for letting us know.

Please do.

If all else fails you could weld a nut/bar/socket on the locking nut in order to remove it. Of course that will ruin the locking nut and you would need to buy a new one. Protect the wheels from weld spatter if you do try this.

Colin. You are flogging a dead horse old chap. This topic expired seven years ago. Better to start your own topic. Locking this topic.

Steven. It would be worth looking at the relevent sections of the forum for the models you are interested in to get an idea of the pros and cons.

I have never heard a gearbox make the sort of sound you describe, but if it is the box it is probably too late to do anything about it. Nevertheless for peace of mind it won't hurt to get the oil changed.