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So how it started (no pun intended). Drove the RS4 for about 400 miles on and off and no dramas really. 1st problem - Starter partially engaged a few times (horrible noise) then started fine. 2nd Problem - Squealing poly belt on tick over (still working but annoying.) decided to take the car off the road for a few months and do both jobs. Anyone looking to do any of these jobs be aware it a little more work then your average. 1) poly belt, jack car up and take belly pan etc off. Then you need to slide the front of the car forward, (Audi S4 4.2l alternator belt and tensioner replacement DIY by Edge Motors) Fog lights out Bumper off watch the video! easy job but make sure you have a long pole or breaker bar to take tension off belt. NEXT Starter motor, (what a !Removed! of a job) Audi RS4 B7 - 4.2 V8 - Starter Motor change One of the engine mounts Allen bolts near the exhaust is a pain but doable. Stripped and cleaned starter motor. engaging shaft was all carboned up, cleaned and lubed and works like a dream out of the car. heat shield was put back on but maybe not as well as it was when i took it off due to its age. (Might be a problem) So poly belt installed and works fine Starter motor works every time ............................. When the car is warm after a run it wont start. Clutch pedal down (audible click) and no joy, Leave the car for 10/15 mins to cool down starts straight away! Assuming the heat shield may be making the starter solenoid overheat and not sure if it tells the car not to start if its to hot? Also if car now left locked up over night it drains the battery. 1) Charged battery and it hold charge fine. leave it disconnected over night and didnt lose any charge 2) did a parasitic draw check. car unlocked and drivers door open, drawing about 4 milli amps removed all relays from under steering wheel and no change to draw. car running battery doesnt drop so alternator is charging. 3) Once locked and left it drops to 1.6 milliamps is this bad? my thoughts are before i did starter and poly belt it was fine so its something i have done. Any ideas what may be drawing? Bad earth from starter? Bad cables from starter? Heat shield hot starter sending signal? bad earth or something not on properly attached? any help would be appreciated. Plan on getting the car back on axle stands and getting access to the starter again, check all the plugs and leads wrap exhaust near the starter and try and make a better deal with the heatshield. Hopefully i notice something!

Hi all. I have just bought an s5 that was sold as lumpy on cold start, But once warm its fine. It arrives tomorrow , but have seen many video's from the owner on start up and idle etc once warm. I plan to do a carbon clean on it. and as far as i know its had the plugs done. But i cannot verify this. I have seen a video where its rough on starting, very rough lol. spluttering and misfires But after 2 - 5 mins its ok. But still slightly spluttery as it hasnt been used in a while. No smoke or anything from the exhaust / engine If the carbon clean dosnt solve this issue. What would be any ones next point of action please. The carbon guy will be reading the codes etc tomorrow , may have a better idea then. But seeing as it gets better once warm, I wondered if anyone might know what that might points to or suggest. Many thanks in advance. Mark

Still shows as two broken play symbols on mine so just did two screen shots to show what it looked like.

If you are convinced the guarantee is for two years then it is legal advice you need, not technical. Good luck in resolving your problem. Do let us know the outcome.

I assume the large wheels will have very low profile tyres, an arrangement that is known to produce a much harsher ride than normal, so it's reasonable to believe that is what has knocked out springs and bearings. Not sure about the drive shafts.

Hello all Sorry to ask but my head is spinning with so many different answers regarding which GB oil is the correct 😓 I have a 2017 A6 C7 2.0 Tdi Ultra, DDDA engine with a manual RYS gearbox...I need some help finding the right spec oil please 🙏🙏🙏🙏 Thank you all and sorry for the trouble. Regards

Did you have the new battery coded to the car? It won't work properly until you do.

Wilburys

Offers welcome on these. Need them gone to buy something else. 😁

And back

I'd get this into a garage asap. Let's hope it's a chain and not the crankshaft etc.

This link might help with the sloshing https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/624964-Water-sound-behind-dash

I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up or get an auto electrician to take a look.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Still knocking, has been to three garages now, no one seems able to diagnose the issue just want to start swapping out parts which I'm not keen to do as it gets pricey, battery was diagnosed as faulty (replaced and wasn't the original), TPMS sensors seem to have a mind of their own.....TBH is feeling a bit flaky as a vehicle, had multiple BMWs before this and never suffered this many faults this side of 100K

Pleasure Glyn. We look forward to hearing of the outcome.

Non-manual choke? If so, could be the cold start/ coolant temperature sender which is at fault. This would be the sender which assesses the coolant temperature and signals the degree of fuel enrichment required. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Alan, If it were mine:- (1) Call in to your nearest main dealer’s Parts Dept. and enquire about the price and availability there. ( are there any electrical connectors very near/within this T piece? by the way?). (2) If they won’t give you the part number - which is quite likely - have a look on LLL Parts website, and you may find it there. (3) Thoroughly search EBay and EBay International to see if you can find one on there. (4) Register your ‘want’ with on-line car breaker link sites. Partsfinder is one of many. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Gareth.

As a quick update (which may or may not help others!) I ended up cancelling with Audi and reinsuring with them to kick this out another year within their expiry dates (which means I can hopefully also sort issues with my NCD out too!). Adrian Flux were well over £2k, eSure and Audi v similar around £1500. Interestingly the front end for UKI is Churchill and Directline, neither of which will underwrite performance cars!

I’ve got a 2014 Q7 and same happened to me last year in the Lake District, at 10pm on a Sunday night. Problem is, the pulley shouldn’t be rusting away like that, it a low quality part that Audi could easily have put right. My pulley was £350, from a local car parts place, VW were asking £550 at the time (parts - not fitted). If people can get them for £96 from ECP I’d recommend doing it as preventive maintenance as you can’t really drive without it. Shame really - I’d expect parts like that to fail on a Citroen C1 but not a Q7!

Could be a relay, also check continuity of the wiring if you can trace back.

Yes up to the max level then drops down past min but I tend to top it up before the warning light appears.

Hello, I am looking for A3 1.5 TFSI ED 1 or S Line with Bang & Olufsen 2020 onwards. Daytona Grey colour, budget is £20K thank you.

That the air flow reduces suggests an electronic problem. Best to get the system diagnosed.

Thank you