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Avoid going to Halfords, I mean that genuinely. For some things, especially batteries then the main dealer is more reasonable than you think. Likely an AGM battery, and it needs coded to the car. On a B8 model, I’d say it still needs coded to the car. This can be done if you know someone with VCDS.

Hi, do you have any parts left?

Hi, It's almost impossible to hear it when driving, I only really hear it when the car is ticking over, so I'm not sure. It only seems to start about 20 or 30 seconds after I start the car as well, not as soon as the engine starts.

That link shows exactly what to do, and yes, it is the front calipers, apparently Audi knows about this. I used a wire brush that is used for cleaning pipe fittings before soldering to get all the crud out of the caliper, and really greased the bushing and where it installs in the caliper to try to keep the water out. The shake/wobble on my car was so severe I thought that people around me would notice!

Hey all, I am looking to replace the single din Concert radio unit in my A3 8PA 1.6 to a Pioneer MVH-S420BT, however I’ve seen that I may need to do some wire cutting and buy extra looms? Can somebody explain to me very simply how to do it myself? Or is there a way to buy a plug and play with no extra work? (See attached images for exact unit models and numbers)

Sorry, what is s or D mode?

Evening Cliff, yes I’ve seen that post and I’ve requester all paperwork such as registration document V5 and Certificate of Conformity completely sorted, luckily I’ve only put a deposit down so hopefully they get the paper work sorted before the 7th which is when I said I’ll collect the car. Thanks for taking the time to reply 👌

Ill get it plugged in thanks

Ideally scan the car with VCDS to see if it identifies the module that’s not communicating. There’s a Bluetooth module, but I’m guessing. An auto electrician is probable a safe bet with access to diagnostics. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/RS4C/605/0/035/35010 Not sure if this unit is under passenger side seat or in boot given cabriolet could be a different set up given potential for the interior to get a soaking.

Ethan. Your frequent refilling and short journey make me confidant there has been no damage. No guarantees of course, but I would not be concerned if it was my car.

Fair enough. I can't help sourcing another engine, but I would be wary of a secondhand unit unless it is supplied with a cast iron guarantee. You and your mechanic have probably considered whether repair of the existing engine is feasible. Rattles and misfires could be anything from timing belt to crankshaft position sensor, while low compression on one cylinder could be just a sticking valve. Any of those would be a lot cheaper than another engine. Having metal shavings in the fuel is odd. Rust or grit I could understand, but not shavings. Any idea how that happened?

Thanks Ian, You now need to start testing for voltages and good earths using your multimeter. Regards, Gareth.

Cliff Many thanks for the information, I will have a look to see if this can be disabled. It does not really cause any trouble; I was a bit worried when I first saw the error but I now know that the car will charge with no issue. The MyAudi app for the Q4 is not as good as the app for my previous car A3 8Y, at least I could lock the car if I was away from the vehicle not available in the Q4 version.

Thanks for the update Tony. Note that the job is not trivial so it would be worth renewing the water pump at the same time while the engine is apart. The pump life is similar to the belt and requires the same effort for access, hence the recommendation to do both at once. We have noted before problems with forum access when done through Google. I don't know the details or whether a solution was found.

Yes the squeal is most likely to be the release bearing. Adding that to the high bite point confirms that the clutch is defective and needs to be renewed. Others here may be able to recommend a source for a new clutch.

Was the reply of any help Gerry?

I definitely think you need to be asking the importer to contact VW Japan as they clearly can communicate in the language. If you owned it less than 30 days you can return it for a full refund

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 It's definitely not an old man car. Regarding forums you'll find most of them will show the horror stories, as people don't come onto them when everything is working and good.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Hi can anybody help with instructions on how to remove the A6 C8 Avant Tailgate Trim ? The rear washer water is exiting through the rear camera instead of the washer jet, so assume pipe is disconnected or damaged. Bought the e copy of Haynes manual but not a lot in there to be honest thanks pete

Hi guys I know it not a vw but I have audi a1 66 plate I bought the car last year before I bought the car the left headlight there was an issue which they repaired it was ballast costing 410 after 3 months i had the same warning light come up head light malfunction dipped beam, so scanned it with obd2 nothing came up so we bought a cheap ballast for 25 and it worked then failed after 2 days so as the orginal part was from audi we put that back in the car and it worked perfect which is weird as it had failed it worked fine for 5 months solid and tonight it decides to fail has any one experience this? I replaced the bulb too still same also also done a check on the other headlight to make sure if not electrical but nope that worked perfect it a total mystery...I'm trying to look solutions as I can't think what it could be I mean every post I looked at they said they taken cars to audi and they don't see a problem or they say it the ballast if it the ballast it failed twice the part is under warranty for 2 years and I think if I take it there and they put a new one what saying that won't fail too... If any one can suggest or had this experience and fixed it I would love to know... So here what we done so far Scanned for codes and run test on obd2 No errors Check fuses all fine It has new ballast Check wiring all looks fine New xenon bulb

I did another test, drove a little bit in city to raise the engine temp to 90, parked, checked the radiator fans they were blowing hard, then shut off the AC and the fans stopped as well even though the engine was at 90 and it didn't drop... it seems like only after i drive on highway is doing it.

i am considering the same. But my actual daily has to go in for repairs. Ill have to see if i can afford an electician.

It has now. Thanks for the update.