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It’s having rear exhaust section modified in a few days so they are going to have a look at it. It’s not throwing any fault codes which gives me hope the engine is still okay. I’m guessing a lazy cam tensioner or a bad DMF. Will have to wait and see

Mark. A musty smell is always caused by damp, and as you have found those air freshener bombs (which are only perfume) merely cover the stink for a short time. You are right about the condensate drain from the AC being blocked if there is no water on the ground beneath it. Unfortunately I don't know where the drain is on your model, or how to access it. Have you cleared the AC air intakes of dead leaves etc. below the windscreen as a start? Can you remove the scuttle cover for a better view?

Same here. I've never had a car with so many chips. Tried repairing one. Didn't really work. They're not big enough to claim on insurance. Have to just ignore them

Jaguar XF where the app was very good, as is Ford's, the Audi app is awful. It won't actively send you any notifications if you leave it unlocked. I'm glad that I only took the month option. It tells me where the car is for free. As for the other £16 monthly subscription. Same. Don't. Fire up WAZE for satnav. It's brilliant and FREE traffic alerts.

Good morning I have a 2016 a5 cabriolet, when purchased steering wheel buttons and paddles were not working but the horn was I have replaced the control ring under the airbag after diagnostic said this was the fault, however since fitting my mechanic can't get the cruise control stalk to work which was working before the control ring was swapped, I ordered a new part from autodoc using the vehicle reg so I'm sure the ring is the correct oem part, any ideas or advice would be really appreciated

Thank you for your info the lights are not particularly dim but yellowish I thought maybe led would be the answer but not as it works out thanks again

I'm getting the feeling we won't hear from him again until he has another problem and needs some more advice Gareth. Getting all too common unfortunately.

Hey all I was just having a look at my inner cv joint earlier and I could see passed it to a sump , not sure if these is the main oil sump or the transmission sump , but I noticed it looked a bit damp around it , just wondering is this a bit of sweating , the car is driving well and have no oil lights coming on , it's been 45000km since last auto transmission service . The car is a 2015 audi a6 c7 s tronic . Thanks

Cars with Quattro drive will crab on full lock which might explain lurch. The A3 uses Haldex system so it’s basically on FWD unless speed sensors say otherwise. I doubt there much to worry about. If worried, get the car scanned with VCDS.

With apologies to Cliff for following on from his question:- I believe you can discount any association with the bonnet contact. If the wipers work, then this is serviceable. If it were mine, I would first be checking you are getting a good 12 v supply to the pump and an adequate earth. If you are, suspect the aftermarket pump, but I haven’t had any frequent issues with these. If you aren’t getting 12 v to the pump, you will need to check wiring back to the stalk - which could also be the culprit. Please let us know how you get on Martin. Regards, Gareth. p.s. Afterthought :- you are talking windscreen washers here, rather than headlight washers- ?

No, the tyre pressures are always okay when checked. It’s not saying that a specific tyre is low on pressure as it would if there was a puncture etc but that there is a fault with the system. I have found out that it is not sensors in the valves that monitor the tyres but a combination of the rolling circumference when set which is monitored by the speed sensors/ ABS system

We have sheep breaking the 20mph limit. Would an App cater for that!?

Evening everyone, newbie here. Just purchased a 2015 Audi S7 V8 450bhp petrol with 96000 miles, lovely car but has just thrown up the error on my ODB2 o2 sensor signal stuck lean; bank 1 sensor 2. Is this an easy fix to do at home, or a garage job? If it can be done at home where can i find it? Thank you.

Thank you I will do

Hello Does anyone know the part numbers for the red front brake calipers on the S6? From doing some searching I found the numbers 4N0615107AG and 4N0615108AG, but on some sites they are referred to as being for other cars like the SQ7 and S7. Are they the same part? Thanks

Hi All. Would really appreciate some support with an issue that has confused audi specialists. The MAF sensor keeps on blowing. When it does the car cuts out. Unplug the sensor, the car runs ok, but over fuels. Putting a multimeter on the ground pin in the wiring plug, the next to the middle pin I get 4.99 volts which I think is correct. If I them check the next pin I get 7.3 volts with ignition on and 9.5 volts with the engine running. I thought this was supposed to be considerably less? If that's the case any ideas where to start? Anyone know where I can get a schematic for the actual ECU? I'd like to track back through the loom and find where the excessive voltage is coming from. All help will be very much appreciated. Stu

Please let us know the outcome. Note that this is a forum in which information is supposed to flow two ways, so we do expect some sort of acknowledgement or response from members to those who having taken the time to answer without us having to nag.

Take it back to the dealer with your mechanic's report. The dealer will undoubtedly try to dismiss your problems with all sorts of excuses, but stand your ground and insist on either a refund or a full repair. It's your legal right.

Glad to hear it.

Yes stays at 90. When the EML comes on, if you stop then restart, that journey also stays at 90. But on the one occasion the EML came on and we didn’t stop/re-start, it went just above 90 and fans were blowing hard. That’s what made me finally book it in. Error code is P00B700

If that was really true don't you think Audi would have supplied their cars filled with a high viscosity oil at the factory? There are very good reasons for a specific quality of oil being chosen for a particular application, so it would be foolish for a novice to even consider changing to something different if it does not match the original specification.

Just because the casing or outer box is identical from one model to the next, does not mean the gear ratios inside are also identical.

I've switched from Tesla to Audi and have subscribed to Tesla Charging for non-Tesla EV's which seems to be the most cost effective DC charging option out there. Does anyone know how to plan a trip on the MMI to charge at those Tesla chargers open to non-Tesla EV's - I was just thinking about ensuring the battery is prepared for charging. Thank you

Recently joined this Forum and have found lots of useful information on MMI not working but unfortunately cant get mine to work yet. Car is a 2012 Audi Q5 2.0 TDI S Line UK Car. Steps so Far - Checked 5A MMI fuse front passenger side and 7.5A fuse in the boot - Checked Radio unit in boot and MMI head unit at front both have power and ground supply - Used an optic bypass on the radio and head unit - Charged the battery which was reading 13v on multimeter after charge and also coded in using VCDS - Changed the centre console panel - Used VCDS Optical Bus Diagnostic which showed 19-CAN Gateway, 5F Information Electr.(High/D3), 56 Radio all ok both electrical and optical - VCDS also could not reach 5F or 56 when I ran an autoscan which seems to contradict the information above? - VCDS also showed a 00384 - Optical Databus fault which I'm assuming is part of the problem? The only other thing I can think off is order an MMI head unit from Ebay and try that but any other ideas would be appreciated

Hi Did you ever get this sorted out ? I’m having exactly the same problem?