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You’re right to flag it. Something isn’t sitting right once the suspension or brakes were reassembled A single clunk could be pads moving in the brake carrier. Were the garage lazy and simply buzzed it back on? A strip down, blow out with compressed air and light smear of ceramic grease would bed everything in. The final torque on the hub bolt is with the wheel still raised, and there’s a sequence. Any other associated suspension links that were dismantled should be checked too.

Often a battery on its way out will trigger faults. Don’t put yourself in the position by trying to kick it down the line, it will let you down. If money is tight, then any AGM battery, VARTA, Yuasa, etc, same cold cranking amps as the original. In terms of coding VCDS if you know someone or OBDeleven. Fitting is straight forward. If you have scan software, then don’t bother hooking up battery trickle charge to points in engine, just take it out, importantly remembering to photograph the code and connect the vent tube. Code it in and forget out it.

Was your problem ever resolved Cooper? We have found ourselves with the exact same fault with our A1 (68 reg) and the car was sold to us by Audi used dealer with a ‘makeshift earth repair’ on one side which has now burnt out again and the other side is heading in the same direction. We’ve only had the car six months and have an Audi extended warranty for another 6 months. Not sure if it can be fixed under that. But if the fault reoccurs it leaves me nervous.

Try speaking to these people about what you want to do and what you'll need Car Stereo Car Audio | Dynamic Sounds | Car Stereo System ... They seem to be very good and not too expensive.

I will wait for the Vid..

Last bit :- vital that you do in my book Andy, before committing. Please do not be mislead into thinking low mileage is any assurance from potential issues, since if you consider such low mileage is usually as a result of short journey use, with numerous gear changes etc. along with stops and starts, and braking. Always worth reviewing the broader picture of pros and cons of low mileage compared with the same car covering high motorway miles at optimum operating conditions. Regards, Gareth.

The car is now sold

Gonna get it checked by a VW specialist first, the dealer will likely try to bodge/cover it up etc. I'm sure a pro will just drive it for 5 mins to see the issues. I'm kicking myself, British roads so bumpy I couldn't tell in the test drive so many potholes I want to be armed when I go back, main dealer I got it from,17k with warranty.

I have to agree with Cliff I suspect it's the amplifier. I'd recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up

Yep a c8.

Please keep us updated on how you get on

I'm near Leicester. I used AC motors on wanlip road in Syston. They're very good. You also have vee dub in Queniborough but I've never used them. Chapmans independent audi specialist in Wigston but again not used them.

I have the same on a Q3 sportback 2024. Audi have had it 3 times and have now told me that’s what it’s supposed to sound like. I said what Audi have purposely added a really annoying noise on an expensive car as standard. They did change the activated charcoal line in mine as that is a common issue as they split but it has made no difference. I have had other mechanics say it could be transmission, turbo, air intake timing belt/chain or electrical. I said to Audi what I don’t want is to come back when it’s out of warranty and then be told I have a big problem and it’s going to cost me a fortune. The thing is quite a few people have the same issue so there has to be a problem.

Hi - had the same problem and my local garages did not the soft ware to unlock the unit. However I found a local auto electrian who had the software and he successfully unlocked it.

Many thanks Richard for your help. I have dismantled both front brake calipers and though the pads and discs are as new, all was really dry of grease. Using the ceramic I greased all as appropriate. Just done a road test the rattle has basically gone. Only a little rattle over pot holes which should avoided anywhere. New caliper springs and gease up -job done. Thanks again.

Thanks Tavi - this worked for me.

Please keep us posted on how you get on

Keep us updated Gustaf. Does anyone know if the brake calipers are the same on all models? I've got a 2015 BiTdi Allroad so trying to identify the correct parts for it. Thanks

So as I thought no screws in the slide out panels or under the triangle, just a load of push in clips that need a bit of gentle persuasion. I used a trim tool bought in readiness, Wetado 8 piece £9 on Amazon, to get the right hand side off first then just gently work all the clips out. The light and boot switch have a small push down clip to disconnect the wiring plug. The adapter for the wiper washer, picture attached is blocked

This thread will now be deleted.

Hi, do you have any parts left?

Hi, It's almost impossible to hear it when driving, I only really hear it when the car is ticking over, so I'm not sure. It only seems to start about 20 or 30 seconds after I start the car as well, not as soon as the engine starts.

Ideally scan the car with VCDS to see if it identifies the module that’s not communicating. There’s a Bluetooth module, but I’m guessing. An auto electrician is probable a safe bet with access to diagnostics. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/RS4C/605/0/035/35010 Not sure if this unit is under passenger side seat or in boot given cabriolet could be a different set up given potential for the interior to get a soaking.

Ethan. Your frequent refilling and short journey make me confidant there has been no damage. No guarantees of course, but I would not be concerned if it was my car.

Thanks Ian, You now need to start testing for voltages and good earths using your multimeter. Regards, Gareth.