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So I’m having some problems with my turbo actuator on my 2015 Audi a6 2.0 TDI….read a lot of places these can be adjusted however the one I have and the replacement one part number doesn’t look as though it has any adjustment capability. im advised the actuator should read 3.6V with power on (tolerance 3.3v to 3.9v) engine off and 0.76v with engine on at idle. my readings are currently 3.2v power on, engine off and 0.72v with engine on at idle. the actuator itself has not nut/bolt to allow adjustment. have ran turbo adaptation on VCDS but no change to readings. basically my cars running like rubbish especially 4th, 5th and 6th gear as if it’s struggling. No EML, not fault codes. if I were to replace the actuator I take it that it would just be a straight swap over. image of actuator

Still available Now reduced to £600

Thanks for coming back on this Alan. My (jaundiced?) view on ‘fancy large wheels’ is that they may appeal to some onlookers who take any interest in looking at car wheels, but such people can be rare to come across. They will also appeal to owners who want, or expect, others to fancy their large wheels, and if that is what turns anybody on, then that’s fine too. The practical and downsides:- So that gearing etc. is not affected, the total diameter of wheel + tyre has to remain constant, so the larger the wheel dia. the lower the profile ( sidewall height) of the tyre has to be, and dictated profiles can be reduced to silly levels as with your current 30. The lower the tyre profile, the much harsher the ride quality the driver has to suffer, for the ‘benefit’ of being able to view the static car with the large fancy wheels - which can’t be seen by the driver when using the car! Does that significant disadvantage add up? I guess, yes, to some owners. Convertibles are for enjoying with the hood down, with a nice comfy ride, while you take your time to smell the flowers along the way. Just one person’s point of view, and very much open to debate. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks for the update Paul, In addition to Cliff’s queries, I think I’m reading it correctly, that you changed the actual bearings in the original hub casing- correct? If so, any particular reason why you chose this labour intensive route, rather than renewing the hub assembly - complete - already fitted with new bearings? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Gareth, I am in the same position. Did you ever get to the bottom of this. Regards

Well, fancy that! Many thanks Cliff. Great shame you weren’t able to be one of the S. Wales’ valley academics who got me into this bad habit. I like the ingrained bit - this certainly has been exactly that with me over too many decades to recall. Kind regards, Gareth.

It is an S4 Avant B9 but I imagine the dimensions are the same. My partner has a 62 plate S5 and that also works but the low sloping glass window at the very back does require more fiddling. Mind you these are road bikes (42cm wide handlebars). With the wheels off, it should be much easier.

As far as I am aware, the 2.0l 35 and 40 TFSi share the same engine. The 2.0l 35 replaced the 1.4l petrol engine. My first Audi was an A5 35 TFSi. It was a good car but I found it to be a bit sluggish for want of a better word. It was almost like the factory tune was restricting things a bit too much to get it down to 150ps. It tended to hesitate before accelerating. Both of mine were DSGs and I found that if I put the foot down, even in sport mode, the 35 would just rev away in neutral when I tried to overtake anything before finally selecting a gear. Usually by which time the opportunity to pass had gone. The 40 is so much better in my opinion and accelerates much more freely. If you can find a good tuning place then they only need to remap it to be similar to the 40 and it will become a better car and still well within the tolerances for reliability etc.

Thanks Gareth. I've taken your advice and emailed Audi customer services. They are a tad slow to respond though. So far they've only responded to say that my issue doesn't sound right 😯 and asked me for my VIN and address. Given that I have now found dozens of threads on forums all over the world complaining of exactly the same issue I have, I'm not sure what they are going to be able to do for me. TBH all I need is the ability to change it to "late" like I was able to in my last two A5s and I should be ok.

One of my cars Is an 8J TTS I Sometimes get a little water coming in the passenger footwell from the bottom door seal. I CBA to replace the whole door seal so I just leave it. As I have custom rubber floor mats it just creates a tiny puddle on random occasions. But if it is leaking badly you should look into it. Also worth checking the frameless windows are seated correctly as this can cause leaks. Also there is a drain hole on the bottom of the door which sometimes gets blocked, as the door is designed for rainwater to run down the glass and though the door not over it. Regularly applying rubber conditioner and cleaning the seals helps prevent issues. Something like liqui moly gummi-pflege works very well. (especially during winter when the rubber can freeze) If you think water is coming in via the HVAC - you could first try removing the pollen filter which is super easy - no tools required and see if it is damp.

Hi all, my car is jerking heavily sometimes when let’s say driving out of a roundabout picking up speed from 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th.Also let’s going through a town around 30-40 km/hr. No hassle taking off from stopped, idling, motorway etc. Automatic gearbox. Can’t get help or answers locally. Dunno what to do. All help graciously accepted. 🙏

Does anyone have any knowledge of the what the turbo actuator voltage readings on a 2015 2.0 TDI 190 should be? with ignition off mine is showing 3.269v or 3269.0mv, with engine running and at idle it shows 0.7294V or 729.4mv

Thanks Steve as always I appreciate your knowledge and help.

There you go then Allan.

I was referring to cambelt quote Lance.

Ok. Read and understood

Helicoil is more than strong enough for the job, BUT you do need to accurately centre the drill bit and keep it square, which rules out a hand held drill unless you have a fair bit of experience in using one.

Well worth a go, although I would suspect your visit to the first dealer will be recorded in the car’s on-line history.

Many thanks Sophie for sharing your experience. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello all. New member. Soon to be replacing my 2014 B8.5 A4 Avant 2.0L TDi Technik SE with a newer 2017 B9 A4 Avant 2.0L S-Line SE. Familiar with forums, have been using them for years - mod on a Jag forum (can I say that without everyone going Jaaaaag?) Looking for information and help where I can.

All you guy's that have changed all their Hoses for Silicone ones did you change the Heater ones 8D0819371G AND 8D0819373H If so have any of you still got them hanging around your garage...Thanks..

Definitely a been-there-doing-it snap shot Anton, and repeating, it’s like the penalty premiums for new drivers! I’ve got an elder brother, and I do the annual comparison site etc. trawl for him, so I get advance notice of what’s due to be coming my way. At least it minimises the surprise factor! . Kind regards, Gareth.

You will need cut before rear box and weld S3 box with 4 tips onto it.. and plus u will have to get new rear S3 bumper or if u wanna mess with difuser removal get just that

Hi I have purchased and fitted a similar device and connected via Bluetooth but I have no way to start playing. If I select CD it simply says No Disc

Hi guys I have just purchased and installed a Bluetooth adapter to my A4 B7 Concert radio. I can see the Bluetooth transmitting and can connect my iPhone to it. I cannot select it from the radio. I assume it emulates being a CD multi changer but if I select CD it just says no disc. Do you think that somewhere, maybe VCDS, I have to tell the car it has a multi changer? Lost at the moment. Waiting for reply from supplier. Any help would be appreciated.