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The culprit finally started revealing 20250620_211359.mp4 20250620_211359.mp4 itself , front passenger side wheel bearing noising when wheel spinning with traction control off, so was able to spin wheel fast enough . It is the same side that the cv joint was done on last month . Weather the bad cv damaged the bearing or it was damaged when the cv was being installed, either way I finally found the problem , its being changed in 2 weeks , just have to limp on until then . 20250620_211359.mp4 20250620_211359.mp4

One tenth of Audi cost is a good result indeed.

So I noticed! lol I ended up purchasing the coolant lines from the Audi dealership for $60 and went to a mechanic my father knew, who charged $60 in labor to replace it. Total $120 + tip, instead of $1209.41, and still OEM pieces

Hello Man Audi TT, Can see you have returned to the forum earlier today, any reason why you cannot have answered Clifford’s question?

You're welcome. Please keep us posted on how you get on 🙂

Many thanks. I'll contact them on Monday.

Here you go 🙂

You're welcome. Thats a shame. If you put your reg or vin into parts websites you might find the correct one. Not sure how long you've had the car but if you've bought it within the last 30 days from a dealer then they should fix it free of charge as you're protected under consumer law. As you can reject the car for a full refund within the first 30 days from sale.

Cheers, I hope so. I cant imagine it would be anything else. No, there was too much corrosion/dirt on the back, even after cleaning it up with some cleaner the camera couldn't pick it up 🙄

I think you're diagnosis is spot on. Have you managed to scan the QR code?

Reply to Steve Q: Thanks for your further comment. I clicked "Latest Club Discounts (See All Discounts)" but got "Sorry, you cannot view this discount code or offer details because you are not a premium member."

Don't forget to try the company advertising on this forum as they should be able to help.

If confirming ok isn't working then it makes me wonder if there's an issue with the system. You could do a factory reset of the MMI to see if that helps. Alternatively you could get a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up as to why the ok button isn't responding. This is also linked to the my Audi app. Have you looked in the app to see if there's a way round it?

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 sounds a nice A4 🙂

Hi, I am unable to remove the message on my screen so any suggestions would be most appreciated. I have tried every option on the touch screen but nothing so far.

Thanks for your interesting comments. I have bought very little on eBay and never from a foreign supplier, so I am very wary of doing so. However, I'll investigate further and probably contact the supplier to see if I get a professional response. I'll also have to check on Monday how long the garage is willing to hold the car.

So my EML light came on the other day, decided to attach my diag to is and its showing two error codes.. P023B00 - Charge Air Cooler Coolant Pump Control Circuit Low P023A00 - Charge Air Cooler Coolant Pump Control Circuit/Open I located the pump and actuated the pump via my reader and it seems to be working and you can hear it when you unlock the car and open the bonnet. You can feel it working too. However I did notice that the A/C pipe that runs under the pump looked like it was wet, indeed when I got under the car and checked it looked like there was a very small amount of coolant coming from the pump around the connector area it was enough to moisten the tip of your finger. Looking at the hose attachments they seem dry, but it seems the leak is coming from the pump body itself or around where the connector attaches to the body. When clearing the codes the EML light went off but the P023B00 remained. Then when driving the car, switching it off and then starting the car again the EML light comes on and the P023A00 code is back. I'm guessing that even though the pump is working its pulling too much current/shorting as its leaking coolant through the body and throwing these codes. has anyone else come across this before? I mean to me its pretty conclusive as to what the issue is but its always good to ask other opinions.. Also the pump doesnt seem to have a part number on it, just the Audi logo, a QR code and made in Italy (Typical) I did look it up but there are a number of different pump part numbers for this is there a specific one I need to use for this? So far I have found 4H0965569A which seems to be the one.

HI all, I thought id' introduce myself first, I live in Southampton and have recently got a 2016 Audi A4 Avant as the family wagon as we have two children and a whole host of things to cart about for family holidays etc. I've always wanted an Audi as a family car, We used (well still do) have a Nissan pathfinder which was great for family trips and could tow my race car, but as it was getting a bit old and I was going to hit 40 I was thinking of getting something like a 2017 SQ7 but then life happened and then I ended up having to purchase a new kitchen 🙄 we had a small electrical fire which resulted in having to take the kitchen apart and when we did it was apparent that the whole kitchen needed a full rewire and the cabinets were just falling apart when taking them down, so that took my budget for something family, fun and practical to tow with. So in the end I've kept the Pathfinder for towing and decided on getting an A4 Avant. Apart from a couple of niggles, I am very happy with the A4. its the Sport Ultra, so doesn't really have many options, I mean my wife will mostly be driving it anyway and she doesn't like all the technology these days anyway so I guess that's good. I was looking through the history and see that its had a stage 1 re-map, which I wondered why it felt a bit quicker than others I test drove. I do have some niggles with the car I wanted to ask the forum about, but I'll keep that to the technical section. Many thanks, I hope to stick around for my Audi Ownership.. I'll try and help where I can too.

A bit more info for you mate. Efficiency mode is a mode designed to optimize fuel or electricity consumption and maximize mileage. In this mode, throttle response is subdued to reduce power consumption, and the AC system is put in ECO mode. Throttle, transmission, differentials, adaptive cruise control, and even climate control parameters can be managed to reduce mechanical resistance and improve efficiency. You can use Drive Select to pick Efficiency and get the most efficient group of settings, or use Drive Select to select Efficiency MODE, turn the car off and on, and you will get "Not Quite As Efficient Efficiency Mode".

Thank you very much,I was just bit baffled with it.

It's the DIS Efficiency Programme light, nothing to worry about. It just relates to things the effect your MPG, stuff like using your AC etc.

Yes,I can't find any answers.

The green symbol, sorry, question mark not working on keyboard.

Hi there Could someone tell what this light means that has come on please?

Good idea on the rolling road, hadn't thought of that.