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A pity you did not mention that earlier to save wasting our time. Error codes always have to be interpreted in the light of experience, rather than taken literally. So it was not flippancy to ask for them as you wrongly assumed, rather it was an attempt to get some of the basic information which you initially failed to provide. In view of your attitude I shall not add any more to this discussion, even though I have a strong suspicion about the cause of the problem. Good luck.

Hey. Thanks for the response. So the car was mapped and modded by unicorn and puts out 428 lb ft. Unicorn stated an OEM clutch so LUK can handle that, so was going to fit a standard clutch and flywheel. To be clear my partner cooked my clutch on a hill, it's not because I've been track day/heavy abuse etc. Clutch is slipping now so I can get an OEM so LUK clutch kit and flywheel fitted locally but was wondering seen as it's being done anyway what are my recommended options for uprated clutch kit and flywheel etc and is this absolutely necessary given what unicorn said.

Sorry, yes, there was a good reason I didn’t return to the forum…I sold my A3 shortly after, as a result of not being able to resolve this issue and a few other problems I was having. Main dealer tried multiple times, and recommended I try a third party auto electrician. My suspicion was a weak/broken DAB antenna, as I assumed the GPS signal was also received through that. Or a software issue. Figured the main dealer would have caught both of those issues, though, so I really don’t know. Sorry I can’t be of any help, Dan. It’s put me off of VAG cars completely, after only driving them for 20 odd years.

Hi the idea of publishing the codes you have is to narrow down the components that may be causing this, you say that the vehicle was laid up for two years and you have blown two HPFPs therefore I would suggest that the high pressure side is in overrun which is eminently checkable on live data, my guess is that its the fuel pressure regulator playing about, this meters the fuel pressure within the rail and is electro mechanical therefore it can stick slightly and cause insufficient fuel to the rail causing flat spots or stick wide open and the HPFP tries to keep up with what it thinks is demand, the return system just loses what it won't use, using live data check the rail pressure at idle and then through the rev range and see if the figures add up, don't know what the rail pressures should be ideally on the DETA engine you have but I know if the lift pump in the tank is high around 600lpm you have a problem further up. Steve.

Hi Gareth, Thanks for that, I'll try PM. How's your Audi? Dan

I apologize if I came across rude. However often times over the years I've found some less than helpful people think they are helping by saying just run the diagnostic scan and basically don't bother us until you've done such. It's an obvious statement that helps no one. However the diagnostic scan can be both very telling and very misleading. As for the diagnostic scan, of course several have been done and it is kicking out every bad fuel pump code and fuel related code and then some. Nothing that would narrow down the problem. From misfires, to running lean to it doesn't matter as we know the fuel pump isn't happy and none of the codes has led us to a fix and believe me we've chased every code down. In my instance I have what they are referring to as a "New engine" it probably didn't come down the official Audi line and might have a few remanufactured or aftermarket parts. I'm not here to quibble but it sure is pretty and appears to have never been used. All I know is it was bench tested and fired up and run before it was shipped and my problems do not indicate the engine itself to be the problem. So hence the problem. How do I find someone to respond to my question with something other than a flippant read the codes response who couldn't even be bothered with reading the detailed words I wrote (the person I responded to is obviously not going to be the person to be able to provide any meaningful help) I know we all want to help, but sometimes posting when you don't know much can actually derail a discussion and get in the way of getting the very real problem solved. I guess I'm posting and looking for someone and people input that can say hey that's weird and here is how I overcame something similar. It might be when my buddy installed an engine this is what was done wrong or we overlooked that other thing that then gave codes and caused the fuel pump to not work right. Cars are complex unfortunately codes are not always the holy grail solution that weekend backyard mechanics think they are. What happened to being able to have a meaningful conversation and discussion sharing of experiences etc. without being fixated on code reading.

Hello Dan, The OP has not returned to the forum since a few days after he joined. It would probably be better to send him a PM, in the hope he retains the same e-mail contact. Regards, Gareth.

Following the sale of our A3, I have a pair of new Febi curved rear suspension link arms (not handed) for sale. These fit a range of years, and models, from A1 to Q3 and even TTs. Cheapest prices on EBay for non Febi are around £23 each. £25 + p&p will be accepted for the pair, and I will throw in a set new anti roll bar rubber bushes and saddles - current price £17.50. Curved rear links arms are Febi 32543. Anti roll bar kit is Febi 23606. These will also fit many Skodas, Seat and VW models. Please check EBay for suitability for your car. Please PM me if interested. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Marsden1206 I seem to have the same issue with my A5. Did you find an answer on here please? Cheers The Mint

Well you would say that wouldn't you. You may not even be aware of possible malware, so sorry again, but I am not going to watch it. I suggest a decent photograph uploaded to the forum with your reply. The forum software will eliminate most nasties or prevent uploading.

Hi the engine could well have been new or classed as such under American consumer law despite being classed as refurbished in the U.K. , the other key bits of information such as milage of the original unit would affect the value of bolting well worn parts on to a new bare unit, my suspicion is someone has used a faulty/old gasket in the system or fitted parts incorrectly, this particular poster seems very reticent to provide answers to simple questions that are simple building blocks towards diagnosis, why these people come to this forum requesting help and then abuse the person trying to help is beyond me, they expect a solution with the minimum of Information and then throw their toys out of the pram when they don't get what they want to hear, he has probably run out of sites to abuse in the states, so now its our turn, lucky us. Steve.

Hi tried to watch the video but it won't play maybe a photo would be better? Steve.

The video is fine to watch its from my phone! Nothing dodgy but many videos are saying its a flange but i feel its a pipe video really helps

Are you really looking for an upgrade, which implies a performance clutch able to handle upgraded engine power, or do you mean a standard clutch at lower than LUK prices? Sorry to ask but some folk here think upgraded equals renewed.

Hey. First time posting here. Looking for manual B8 S4 owners clutch and flywheel upgrade recommendations. About to drop a painful amount on a LUK clutch and flywheel kit, running 430 lbft. has anyone had any good experiences with upgraded aftermarket clutches/flywheel upgrades in the U.K.? very little about what's available in the UK online as I know manual S4's are pretty rare. Thanks in advance.

Sorry Nelly, I won't download files from untrusted sources so I have not watched your video. However if you can see where the leak originates, that is the part that needs to be replaced. Have you taken it to a garage yet, or got opinions from anybody else?

It's true I can not help you Josh if you are not prepared to either do any testing or provide suitable information to aid a possible diagnosis. If all you want is speculation and guesses then you don't need my help. After all you claim to be "fairly car literate and I'm usually able diagnose and know the problem..." I looked up Power Engines and saw the company supply new and re-conditioned engines, so can you be sure the engine you received was genuinely new? The company lists this for your car: https://powerengines.com/collections/all?filter.p.m.custom.make=Audi&filter.p.m.custom.model=Q5&filter.p.m.custom.year_multi_selects=2016 The price of $3199 is impossibly low for a brand new engine, even before it is shipped from Germany, so what do you conclude from that?

HI all, Please help me i have a coolant leak that my coolant bottle leaks within 5 mins the heating still produces hot air and found a leak from a pipe wrapped with heat shield above the turbo slight left.. the drip is leaking onto the turbo if that helps i also have a video .. please help me with what part needs replacing Regards friends, Nelly IMG_7372.MOV

Good morning Josh, Let me start by pointing out that you are in grave danger of discouraging others to help and advise you due to the unfortunate attitude you display in your last paragraph. Only you know the absolute facts about the circumstances you find yourself in, and other’s interpretation will be based solely on your ability to clearly convey those facts in a written form. The use of capitals (and particular bold capital) in the context you use them - on this forum and most others are taken as a demonstration of frustration against those who are trying to be constructive, and that is both rude and unacceptable. You emphasise NEW ENGINE (your caps), and Power Engines, but don’t quantify what you mean by ‘new engine’. Could this be totally ‘new’ à la ex VAG, stripped and fully reconditioned and fully bench tested, or simply removed from a scrapped vehicle, given a power wash down, wrapped in clingfilm and sold as ‘new’ I.e. new to you. I think it would be worth you walking back to the first bus stop Josh, and giving yourself a chance to reconsider what you write. Thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Cliff ill keep the forum updated on any developements

You missed the part that it’s a NEW ENGINE. with just fifteen miles on it. So obviously no engine modifications have been made. Nor could oil consumption be noted. Furthermore having the fuel pump blow the bolt off and the next deform. All within the first fifteen miles. Clearly "YOU" will not be able to provide any assistance. But thanks anyways.

Good luck with your project. It's been decades since I had any engines re-bored & re-shelled, and would not know where to get such work done now.

OK, then do so, and tell us the results of such things as compression tests, injector tests, CO emission, and oil consumption. It would also help to know of modifications that have been made and ECU mapping. The only actions you have mentioned are three fuel pump changes without telling us the reason. Was the fuel pressure tested before changing the pump?

thanks cliff,i suppose your suggestion makes sense,ill check it out and see where i go from here,a lot to weigh up,thanks for the reply

That’s very helpful, thank you.