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Thanks for the feedback. I'll try both, but it'll likely have to be after I've got to the holiday location, or possibly when we get back. The scenarios you've suggested don't sound terminal in the short term though.

Please don't even consider re-drilling the wheels. Moving the holes 6mm outwards will cut into the offset web, weakening them considerably. Try the spacers if you must, and accept the risk of fouling the bodywork, but realistically your best option is to sell them.

hi all, i made a post not to long ago about refurbing some wheels, which some may remember, and after thinking about the comments i took them to a professional refurbishers. £240 later, got them back yesterday,they are georgous and i couldn’t wait to get them on my car. turns out they don’t have the same bolt pattern. as much as it’s my fault for not being careful enough, i had asked the guy i bought them off if they were 5x112 and he confirmed they were. they are 5x100. just thought I’d come here to see what my options are, as i’d love them on my car. best option i’ve seen so far would be 5x112 to 5x100 adapters but most of them are 20mm or 15mm in width which i believe would cause me some rubbing. looked at redrilling but that looks quite expensive. also, i know my best option is probably to sell them and start again but i really want these on my car. i know that may not exactly be possible but i want to try before i think about selling any help is greatly appreciated thanks frank

It may be a control problem or a vent motor fault. A diagnostic scan on a professional machine should identify it.

Bear in mind there could be a variable gas leak at the compressor depending on whether it is running or not. That would not be unexpected on a 15 year old car. I was offered some sort of additive for the gas in my car that was supposed to reduce leakage, but as a cynic about such things I declined the offer. I have no idea what it is called so you would need to research it yourself if interested in trying it.

Good afternoon all. Does anyone know where I can get a set of floor mat for my A3 S Line. I want to keep my car as original as I can. The floor mats have the S Line monogram on the side, with red piping,as in the picture. 2010 year. Thanks.

Rhubarb. Rhubarb. Rhubarb. Can't hear a word you are saying Gareth.

Yes thanks, not what I was hoping to hear..was waiting for any other comments..cars in for it's MOT 11th so good to know that it could be the electronics so I can expect that Thanks

Only thing that did concern me was the new sensor having no sort of serial number or writing on it, it was just blank. It came in a Mahle box but obviously that’s easily done. I just didn’t think much of it until now seeing as the sensor change had altered something and was then working.

Many thanks, You should be OK with genuine Mahle. You will find there are a number of sellers linked to Autodoc. ‘Didn’t concern me that the shipping cost was £8’ You are not Welsh then! Just let us know when high shipping costs become something you can’t live with and we can suggest other places to try - if it helps. The no leaks found/ now leaking confuses, and I think you are wise to suggest rechecking the sensor fitting. Please let us know how you get on Xavier.

Blinking heck Colin, the detail is dribbling through like a dripping tap! As has been said, low profile (35) tyres will give you, and the car’s suspension, a hard ride/time. Are these 35 profile tyres XL or not? It’s now for the sake of asking again, but what was the profile on your 17 inch wheels, and were they XL or not?

Hi Gareth, It was a MAHLE brand sensor 🙂 The exact website I bought the part from was OnlineCarParts and I didn’t know they were an AutoDoc “reseller” from what I know, only found out when I got the shipping details saying it was coming from AutoDoc. Didn’t really concern me that shipping was £8

Welcome Xavier, Before moving on, what brand of sensor did you buy from Autodoc? Regards, Gareth. p.s. Any particular reason for buying from Autodoc with their delivery charges?

Welcome Nick, What you can do:- Take the car on a 20 mile run and drive it straight to Halfords (shop) and get the battery efficiency checked. I would get the alternator output checked at the same time. You could get yourself a can of WD40 ( put your fingers in your ears Cliff! ) and get an assistant to do turn the steering wheel from left to right with the engine running. Put you head under the bonnet - take great care with moving parts, and look for the steering shaft turning. Give the joint a good WD 40ing where it goes into the steering rack. Please let us know how you get off on both fronts. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Sam, Potential buyers will search all the sites you have mentioned. You are of course very welcome to post it on here and I would suggest you include as much detail as possible, together with a couple of photos, and the price. Advertising on forums? Maybe too much of a generalisation, but forum members are mainly owners rather than potential owners, but worth a try. Have you tried EBay? As with all internet adverts, you are at the mercy of time wasters, but… WBAC will give you a bottom line sale price, and strangely I was talking to someone this morning who is about to use Motorway. They will give you a basic price, then put your car on a one day auction. You will then receive the highest bid, but you not obligated to accept it. Not sure (please check) but it might be free to list it. Please let us know whether you intend to advertise it on here or not. Regards, Gareth.

First post here so Hi! I have the same issue with my 2016 Avant. After researching the 'web' I'd come to the same conclusion as the OP and above - universal joint. I did have my car booked into my local VAG mechanics to check the issue, but I've had to cancel due to work. I am going to get this checked by the mechanic ASAP, but I have to take the car on holiday tomorrow for a weeks tootle around Wales and I guess I'm just hoping that the wheels don't fall off during the trip. I know that nobody can confirm this, but are there any other more serious scenarios which could cause the same symptoms? Thanks in advance.

Hi all, I’m hoping to get some insight on an issue I’m having and if anyone else has had the same/similar. So I bought my A4 B8 in May 2025 and the car was sold with the A/C not working. The button would work as if the A/C had no issues, staying on when pressed, etc. I had the system checked by Halfords who told me that the system had about 450 grams of gas in it and held pressure so they only topped it up 100 grams, but didn’t empty the system out and so on, just recommended replacing the condenser unit which I didn’t do after they quoted me £400. Fast forward to 25°C heats in June in Scotland and I thought I should get around to fixing it. I looked up the codes I got and looked through some forums and it all pointed to the infamous pressure sensor issue. I ordered the new sensor from Autodoc, replaced it, A/C still didn’t work but this time the button would only stay lit up when I held it, turning off as soon as I let go. One thing to note is when replacing the sensor, I didn’t get the little squirt of gas that everyone mentions. Eventually I dropped the car off with a mechanic who did a proper recharge, pulling out 70 grams, doing a leak and pressure test and filling it up with 550 grams. The system supposedly held pressure for 20 minutes and the A/C finally worked as it should. A week later, I was out with friends, A/C working fine, then overnight it was no longer working in the morning, but the button stays lit up like it did at first. So 2 days ago I left the car at the same mechanic who tested the system again and have now said that there is a leak in the system, but they did a bubble test and cannot find the leak anywhere and want to do a further investigation. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas or had the same issue? I don’t know if they tested the sensor for leaks (I’ve seen a couple forums where that was the issue) but where could I be looking next? The car is throwing up the same codes about the lower limit being exceeded and “No Signal/Communication” with sensor. Could it be the sensor has failed again for some reason and leaked all the gas? TIA everyone

Hi folks, After best part of 10 years of ownership of my RS4 (B8) I am now looking for a change. My question is where is it best to advertise your car for sale - I've put it up on a few of the forums I've been active with, but wondering wether Autotrader, Pistonheads or others are where RS buyers lurk? What are your thoughts and experiences? Thanks! Sam

Hi there guys i have a 2007 audi a4 b7 avant whith a very faded and nasty 4 spoke steering wheel. Im looking to retrofit a newer cleaner one. Im just wondering what my options are. I have seen people install roundbottom steering wheels from TTRS and RS4s. But they are very pricey. I like the steering wheels in audi a6 c7s. Im wondering if there is anyone out there who could walk me through what kind of wheels would be compatible with my a4. I'm looking to get something from a scrap yard, potentially. Any help greatly appreciated. Hugh

Sorry, the wheels were Original Audi Rotors with the correct offset for the car,no buckles or previous repairs. Tyre size was 255/35/20 all round,as recommended in the handbook. It may just be mileage wear and tear and bad luck.

The sourcing of low quality parts by manufacturers, and subsequent rebranding as OEM, has been mentioned a couple of times on this forum. I forget specifically who it was.

Hi magnet & steve Thanks for your responses. So the car stopped starting thursday last week. No issues before hand, i got the car lifted to the garage that weekend. The did an inspection and a diagnostic and found the starter wasnt engaging and the brushes had worn out. On the diagnostic report it had the code B200047 show up. They changed the starter over and it starts up fine. However the fault code is still showing and the steering has become heavy. They recommend the module change. I haven't had the car since its been in the garage. But before that it was regularly used and i had no noticable steering issues. I agree i don't want to throw good money at it if it can be resolved by a software update. Or sending the module for repair and putting it back on the car. The garage say its just the module thats the issue. I can share the diagnostic report if that will help. Really do appreciate the replys and suggestions.

Hi Optimus My car was delivered in late Nov 2019, but seems to be classed as an MY2020 model - I think? It has the Tour Pack which I use nearly all the time. Makes for a very relaxing driving experience as you will know. I’m surprised if they have made the FBSW mutually exclusive with the Tour Pack. Can’t seen any reason for this.

Hi Thank you for your reply. I have this car from June 2024, I cannot find any information on my papers about extended warranty. I have no idea how to find it. Just sent to the Audi Center a message referring to extended warranty bulletin I hope they will change it for free. The appointment is on 5th of August at Audi Center on Harold Wood London. Any suggestions, any help you can give will be highly appreciated. Thank you