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It is very unusual for modern engines to fail like that unless abused or neglected. I would agree that metal fragments in the cylinders and the sump indicate the need for a complete rebuild or a new engine. Unfortunately I no longer know of any engine re-conditioners anywhere in the country so I can not help on that score, but you are right to insist on a proven track record in the work. Unless somebody has a recommendation I see no alternative but to go to Audi. Don't be tempted to buy a secondhand engine without having it overhauled first.

Hi All I have a Q5 Audi TFSI 2018 Petrol with around 72,000 miles on it. I bought it 4 years ago from an Audi main dealer in Epsom. Its has a full Audi service history. I requested a printout recently and its had 4 oil changes since new plus all other replacements you would expect. In June I was travelling up the A303 at around 80 mph and suddenly all the engine lights came on and I could hear a ticking noise coming from the engine. I pulled over maybe a mile later called AA and he took a look at it and said there has been internal engine damage. I had the car recovered to a AA recommended garage in Gillingham - they put a camera in and said there were metal bits in 3/4 cylinders and that they were not equipped to do a rebuild. Had the car recovered to Audi Basingstoke. They took the oil filter off and confirmed there were metal bits in the oil (£180 charge for that) - they then said it would be £1000 charge for them to take the head off and do a full diagnostic but they thought I would need a new engine from what they had seen and that is £20,000 fully fitted. I am now looking for engine rebuild specialists in Somerset/London or Surrey where I live. The problem is the internet is full of engine rebuild brokers who send you quotes and when you look up the companies they dont have websites or they don't have premises and all quotes promise free recovery and 12 Months or 12000 warranty's. Most have amazing reviews but no other way of verifying authenticity or track record. As I think most would agree this should never have happened to a car of this age and mileage but I dont want to spend the £1000 on Audi diagnosing it and then starting a fight I cant win (I lose the £1,180 either way) Just wanted to know if anyone on this forum had any recommendations of a reputable Audi engine rebuild specialist Many Thanks Karl

Set of four Audi alloy wheels fitted with Continental TS870P winter tyres 225 40 R18, tyres new last year. Free to a good home, new owner must collect (Derby area)

Hi my stepdaughter has a 2015 A5 it has come up with parking brake malfunction on the dash , handbrake works fine so obviously the module ,have tried clearing codes not worked so have seen a new module for the car but does anyone know if it is just a plug in an d go job or will it need coded to the car thanks

Hi it depends how near to the DAB aerial you have fitted any cable for the camera if you have run the rear anywhere through the head liner the whole cab needs suppressor units every foot, it also depends if you have hard wired the unit, which brand of camera do you have they all have their own little quirks. Steve.

Alan. Did this behaviour coincide with the fitting of the dashcams described in your other topic? If so, try unplugging them. https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/31745-dashcam-fitted-now-losing-radio-stations/#comment-133331

I don't know specifically about your car, but the behaviour you describe is typical of modern automatic gearboxes. If the changes up and down are imperceptible, and can only be noticed on the dashboard display, I would not worry about it.

Hi All, Thank you for the answers. Since my post and your replies, I've started reaching out to transmission specialists, and it's been interesting, to say the least. None of them wanted to do an adaptation, and since I'm afraid to do it myself, it hasn't been done. Only one mechanic was committed enough to take the car for a test drive. He mentioned that I might have a dual-mass flywheel issue, but at 30 km/h, he couldn't reproduce the symptoms. However, based on what I described, he suspects a clutch issue and suggested a full transmission rebuild. I contacted another guy who seems like a great professional and has a very good reputation in Hungary. He told me that they don't really do diagnostics nowadays, but he suggested flashing the factory software onto both the ECU and TCU, just in case the car has a previous aftermarket tune. Other workshops never answered my emails, so I guess I will need to call them. For now, I've put my car up for sale until September, and then we will see. What are your thoughts on this? Should I go down the software update route or the transmission rebuild route? I definitely love this car, but if I sell it, I would like to buy one with fewer miles and a much better trim (for example, the B&O system, because I can't stand this 8-speaker setup).

Hi I have just fitted front and back dashcams to my Audi q2 2023 and I am now losing some dab radio stations I have tried suppressions clips on cables with no joy. Anyone else had this problem and have some advice Audi say no idea

Hi I am new to this forum and have owned my q2 black 2023 edition auto for 2 weeks.never owned an auto before so still learning. When I put my foot on brake pedal and push start button sometimes the steering wheel will shake left to right and make a noise but not every time is this normal or do I have a fault Any advice very much appreciated Aw61

Cheers for the advice Clifford. Appreciate it, will give it a try and report back 👍

It's likely there is an airlock as a result of the work on the cooling system. A vacuum applied to the reservoir should clear it.

I’ll keep you all posted once I’ve found someone who can do an electrical test. Appreciate all the responses, thank you 😀

Hi all, New to the forum, after a little help? Have a 2014 a3 2.0 tdi. It seems to be loosing water but cans see any leaks but does it very randomly. It will be fine for weeks then the light will come on low coolant, if you unscrew the expansion cap it will gush coolant back up to the fill level. And be fine for a while. Had the heater matrix replaced and the expansion tank. Any help would be appreciated.

Ahhh this make more sense, a company claiming it is something when in actual fact it isn’t, sound about right, and even managed to get everyone on board calling it a CVT when it isn’t. Anyway, back on topic lol I have read the car with an OBD2 reader and have no faults, I’m to the understanding that it needs to be read on VCDS for more in-depth look to any gearbox faults

The Yuasa 9000 series are 12 volts so Rob must have a standard starter motor, not the starter/alternator of hybrid cars.

Just reset the fault. It’ll be fine. Did you stop when the pump clicked? Don’t overfill the tank.

How does the stop start work? Is it off the starter motor, or do you have BAS 48V system?

CVTs have what are effectively an infinite number of gears between minimum and maximum, hence the name Continuously Variable. It is misleading of Audi and others to falsely claim their boxes to be CVT when they have only a fixed number of gears, 7 in your case. Look up the gearboxes fitted to DAF vehicles many years ago for an example of a true CVT. They were dreadful things.

As far as I have seen every other Audi page and a few auto transmission garages I have contacted state it is a CVT as it is the multitronic 7 speed. I can’t say for definite myself but just on what I’ve read and been told. I agree that mapping can cause problems and could definitely be a possibility though.

Hello Luke, Wondered if you are now able to come back with some answers and hopefully good news fro the VCheck enquiry.

That new information means all bets are off regarding diagnosis. Mapping has a bad reputation for causing engine problems. You are right about the symptoms of a slipping clutch, (engine speed rising with no change in road speed,) so we can rule that out. I still believe it is an engine problem, though it needs somebody more knowledgeable than me for a diagnosis. By the way your gearbox is not CVT.

I appreciate the thought however, I had the injectors reconditioned around 600 miles ago along with a new turbo and the DPF deleted (and mapped out) what makes me feel like it’s the gearbox/clutch is when selecting gear I used to feel it pop into gear a little more pronounced that it feels now. I have done a little digging and found that if it was more of a clutch slip problem I should expect the revs to increase faster than the speed but the revs stay consistent it’s just the shudder when accelerating

This topic is going nowhere so I am closing it.

My guess is the injectors or fuel pumps, but because their repair will be expensive it would be well to get confirmation from an electronic diagnosis before buying anything.