All Activity

Clifford, I tried to avoid going to the dealership. However, as the issue has been ongoing for so long without a resolution. I decided to contact Audi UK as it makes me think it could be a manufacturing fault. Audi UK informed me they wouldn’t look into it until I got one of their Audi technicians to investigate. So I’ve been I touch with Audi again and I’ve let them know their ‘technicians’ are investigating the problem but do they think it’s fair or reasonable to expect a customer to keep paying thousands of pounds just for the technician to say ‘I think it could be’ at this rate I’ll be selling my house to pay for the repair!

..

Thanks John. I’m no mechanic but I feel like I’ve looked at the components that much and read what checks are suggested that I could fix it myself 😂 however, when they say the master mechanics are on the job you would expect them to carry out these checks as Part of the elimination process. I have asked for a detailed report of what the master mechanic has worked on so far. Surely, a master doesn’t need 4 hours to identify the problem. Now they are asking me to approve another 2 hours and they want to strip out my carpets, seats and check the rest of pipes. I honestly can’t believe this issue has been ongoing since January and not one garage can’t get to the bottom of it.

Thanks man, for sure! I think that can be the injectors... the glow plugs looks fine to me. Anyway, we can put some new glow plugs and some new injectors seals just to be careful and peaceful, no probs: I want to use this car for (minimum) 5-7 years before decommisioning, so it has to be perfect! Any advices/hints for the "BDH" engine code? Thanks! P.s. can I ask here regarding the bluetooth dongle or is it better to create a new thread? Thanks!

Hi all, i have a problem with my 2011 Audi a5 2.0 tfsi quattro auto. Engine will not rev as normal. After losing throttle response i managed to limp car home. It pulses with power. Start engine. Put foot on the throttle could be right down. And car just revs to 2000 revs then drops to around 1200 revs then back to 2000 and so on. Not brings up any codes. On dash says stabilisation fault. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks

I suspect that it may be caused by the seal inside the caliper. The rear calipers are made differently than the front ones. I couldn't do it and when I took it apart and wanted to put it back together, the seal is supposed to be put inside the caliper first and then the roller is supposed to be put there, but the seal is like it's too narrow and the roller doesn't have the clearance it should have so it can't pull in that much. I read on one forum that a guy had a problem with it that it was doing exactly this to him and he replaced about 10 repair kits on the calipers and then it stopped working. Therefore, I assume that it will probably be the seal in the caliper, since I had a really hard time pushing the roller through the seal and I had to exert more force to push the roller in (I mean before disassembling but also after reassembling), for comparison, when I disassembled the front and repaired it, I had to exert significantly less force to push the roller in (after reassembling the caliper).

Thanks for reply no tags on spare key but dealership has sorted it.

I was thinking maybe abs pump fault but at a loss with it too. been back and forth to garage for weeks and no further on. there advise was we buy any car so going to have to go to another mechanic for a second opinion annoying as have been using them for years

Never found why this is the case. Replaced everything and still get hot as if they are dragging. New calipers,discs,pads and wheel bearings. Gave up to be honest

Any updates on your predicament? mine is doing the exact same new caliper and brake hose even bought another caliper incase there was a fault with the first and no joy. Garage are at a loss and only thing they can find is that the right caliper requires more force than new caliper on left so it is making the left come on sooner than the right but think they are clutching at straws.

Looks fantastic, sounds like you've got a good plan to get it recommissioned. Slow starting could be worn out glow plugs or injector issue. Any blue smoke on start up could be failed injector seals. Please keep us posted on how you get on

You'd have thought so from the point of view of a practical mechanic, but the "master technicians" that Audi employ can only plug in their computers and read the screens, and if the computer says "no" you are out of luck yet still face a large bill.

The sagging must be caused by either a leak or a problem with the control system. The history of the problem is important. You said that it 'only seems to be when sitting a long time'. If it was the control system, the sagging would be present immediately, I think. If the level is OK for several hours, and then gradually sags, that is suggestive of a small leak gradually reducing the pressure in the strut. Have a thorough read of my post above and ask your expensive mechanics specifically if they have sprayed the strut bags with Fairy Liquid water (makes lots of giveaway bubbles) and also done the same as I did at the top of the strut housing to check the top O ring. It only takes a few minutes to do, and should have been the first thing they did.

Insufficient tyre inflation? One or more? Surely the car would think it was too low and would pump up the bag(s) rather than allow it to 'sag'? The corroded level sensor doesn't make sense either. They are flimsy looking articulated things connecting the suspension leg to the frame and it would be impossible for them to seize without breaking. Also, they don't appear to be prone to corrosion on my nearly 20yr old Audi. I would have thought if one was u/s it would have thrown up a code of some sort.

That’s interesting. My dad, who is now a retired HGV mechanic also suggested the self levelling sensor and we asked the garage today is they have assessed and eliminated this sensor? Unfortunately, the person at the dealership was unable to confirm as they are were not the master technician who was working on my car. I am paying them £216 per hour just for them to say ‘I think it might be’ so I’ve asked them for a detailed report of their findings. the bill is growing significantly, with technicians are effectively dismantling the car without producing any definitive answers. At what point do I say enough is enough and the cause of the issue remains unidentified. This pattern of inconclusive results raises serious concerns about a potential manufacturing fault, rather than wear-and-tear or owner-related issues.

Hello to all! So... finally, I made it! I bought it yesterday. So, now let's set some " Year Zero". The car itself is very good but it has some flaws. The owner told me, as I wrote before, that the last oil change was 3 years ago... but the last checked oil change was SIX years ago... We got it running flawlessy and I made 140Km to get to my mechanic and start some troubleshooting. I don't think, in fact, that is an AKE, because I saw written in the "pink slip" that the engine code is "BDH". We drained all the old (very old) oil and we put: Some shell 5W-30 Audi Specific All new Mann filters Apart from that, the car last belts change was over 8 years ago ( and over 100.000Km ago) so next week we will do this works: Water pump and belts (auxiliary and main) EGR blanking Swirls blanking (got some error codes) ZF Oil, pan and filter for the Tiptronic A bluetooth dongle to install in the RNS-D Right now, my mechanic's advice is to "loose" all the old oils and liquids of the car for one week of daily use and then drain all and put all totally new. Just one strange things tends to happen sometime: at cold, the car first time cranks but not starts. Then I put again the key, crank again and it starts ( we change also the fuel filter and the battery) Here's with my beloved "Old Lady" Cheers!

Good luck with that Andy.

Just joined hoping someone would like to buy my wifes cherished dark blue A4 Cabriolet. 2 lady owners, 54000 miles, FSH and always garaged. She is looking for around £3000, having been offered £2400 by an unpleasant dealer who test drove it.thanks Bob

Hello I just bought a 2010 Audi A3 and it had a problem with the Mechatronic Transmission and I fixed it. After fixing it, I did an OBD test and it showed that there is a problem with the code 06408. What do you think the problem could be?

hi i have a 18" space saver wheel pcd 5x100 (new) i would like to swap it for a 16" space saver one pcd 5x100 any one out there that will do so please give me a message or if you have a 16" one to sell please contact me cheers

Hello First I want say everybody I am new on this forum and I don't know if my topic will be validate ( because of new) but this is what was happened: I have a 2008 Audi A6, last year in August I did something stupid, I gave it power and reversed the terminals, I burned the alternator, I changed 4 fuses for the MMI, and more, after which it started, something star drain my battery (bought new in May 2024), last week I tried to find the consumer by removing all the fuses one by one to see which consumer I have, before I put a meter and it shows around 3.44 amps, all the fuses are ok, I took pictures before I took them out to know where I need to put them back, after which I also removed the positive terminal to measure there too, I don't know what gave me the positive terminal, the important thing is that now comes the beautiful part: it doesn't start anymore (I put the key in and I turn to start , is doing like vruuum 2 sec and that's it the engine stop) the dashboard clocks don't turn on anymore, there is no power to the OBD socket so I can put VCDS on it. If anyone have a clue about my problem please let me know asap. Thank you

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

I'm signing out of this forum but I thought you might like to learn that Audi in America advocate a long-soak method of oil flushing before oil change to try to solve this very common problem. It sounds very severe to me - 45 minutes at 3000 rpm after adding the substance - so I'd have reservations. But you can't buy it retail anyway, only through Audi dealers.

Has anyone had problems with the wiring to the rear camera causing interference with the DAB aerial? I haven't fitted my rear camera yet to my '22 A4 but had real problems with the interference in my Skoda Kodiaq. I fitted a lot of ferous cores along the cable but it had little to no effect. I believe the DAB aerial for the A4 is on the rear screen which could be a problem. I would expect to route it along the passenger side roof lining and over the B and C pillars. Any suggestions or experiences of this?

The light comes on as soon as I press the brake peddle for the tailgate brake light. I'm in process of taking it out to inspect it but have come to a halt and hope someone here might be able to help me - Google is not being helpful. I've stripped the inside of the tailgate, thinking there might be bolts that release the spoiler to access the light. There were two 10mm bolts, which I have removed. However, the spoiler is still held fast. Is it also bonded on or am I going about this wrong? Thanks, Guy