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Mine has FBSW and does have the Tour Pack.

Can’t remember the code but I had a failed NOx Sensor.

Had a similar problem given DRIVE TRAIN FAULT or something like that. Turned out to be a faulty tensioner pulley that keeps the belt around the starter at or correctly tensioned.

I het this too. Severity varies. When the car was under the manufacturer’s warranty, Audi did do a fix but the rattle eventually came back. Not too bad and probably temperature dependent.

Had my ATF Fluid and filter/pan at a ZF Specialist at 80000miles. I know people say ‘sealed for life’, by the manufacturer ZF recommend every 8 years or 80000 to 100000 miles. decided to stay on top of this as I am retired, bought the car from new and want to keep it long term. They had to undo part of the sub-frame to access the gearbox oil pan.

Hello everyone. I'm new in this forum,I experienced some issues with my A6 C7, I will explain my problem from the start, first few time I have message on the dash : Engine start malfunction contact workshop, car drive And start without any problems After this message I received few times message press clutch pedal to start but after few attempts finally car start and drive normally, but after wee while I can't start engine, message appears all the time Press clutch pedal to start, I'm replaced clutch pedal sensor switch (together with master cylinder) still can't start the car, I'm fitted new battery as well but still not able to start the engine, I'm check all the fuses, starter relay with multimeter, all looks good, but when I'm hot wire starter relay car crank but with two starter relays on car still not start etc same message press clutch pedal to start, anybody have same issue with Audi? Cheers

Hi we have had the Ac compressor changed it's new Not a reconditioned unit and replaced the Ac switch.. The AC switch just turns it's self of straight away.. we now we have this weird noise since having the AC gased.. We don't hear it in the engine bay or on the outside of the car just inside the car.. I have attached some videos if anyone has experience same thing please help and share your experience. Thanks in advance PXL_20250628_224822568.mp4 PXL_20250628_171129043.mp4

Will do, collecting it this Thursday.

Hi guys, recently bought a a6 c8 with 84k on the clock. After a short drive today had an engine coolant low warning. Checked coolant level and it’s really low, noticed residue below the engine. Any ideas? Thank you

Also have you done any diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up?

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 sounds like a lovely car.

Neither for mine in regards to red or yellow engine lights. Just the error in the scroll menu on the central part of the virtual display. The breaks on mine only started juddering on replacing with a new sensor. Tried to clear codes too with OBD reader but no effect. Likely will bring it into mechanic as definitely dont want to brick the ABS. May need cleared with a better OBD2 tool either. No fault codes either on OBD

Hello everyone. I need advice. From time to time I have a problem P119A00. How I can to solve this issue? The high fuel pressure sensor is new. This problem appears during acceleration. And also I noticed that LTFT - 10% even -14.

Hi all big thank you to all that read this ,I have a 2020 q2 sline 35tfsi I desperately need to know how to turn the volume on my indicators up it does make a clicking noise but it’s not loud enough so any help would be appreciated thank you

Hi All Had the same issue 5 days ago. Symptoms as listed in the discussion. Yellow ELEC FAULT and a cascade of associated messages along with load-shedding of multiple items such as A/C, MMI,Start/Stop button greyed out etc. Fortunately, I was on my way home. Tried to start the car and but it hardly turned over. Used my NOCO jump starter and that got in running instantly. Given that the battery was flat, I put it on charge and drove it directly to Audi with as many power using items switched off. Managed to cover the 15 miles or so. Having done research overnight, I read up on the 7 year recall and advised Audi of this. They said they would call me after diagnostics. The call confirmed a failed BSG. I also emailed a copy of the BSG Recall Doc that confirmed the no payment would be due. Audi subsequently confirmed that the repair would be FOC. Collecting the car on Monday. Very relieved not to have to pay the bill! My car has the build code 9G8. I think earlier comments suggesting that the MMI or a light should give a warning that the battery is no longer charging. This was always the case on older cars that had an IGN light so you didn’t get left in the lurch. recall doc below: Recall reference R/2020/265 Recall Type Car Recall Date 2020-10-02 Reason for concern MOISTURE MAY ENTER THE BELT DRIVEN STARTER-ALTERNATOR Reason for recall It is possible that moisture may enter the belt-driven starter-alternator. Remedy The starter-alternator must be replaced on the affected vehicles. How to check if the vehicle is recalled Contact the local AUDI dealership or manufacturer. You will not need to pay for anything involving the recall. How the manufacturer will repair The Recalled vehicles will have the fixing checked and corrected as necessary by and official AUDI service. AUDI Reference ID 27H8 Number of affected AUDI cars 11936

It was the TPMS bulb located in the wing on the driver’s side. My local Audi garage did lots of expensive diagnostic tests that revealed nothing - the car failed its MOT, and might have had to be written off. Thankfully a sensible mechanic - from the Audi group of garages I’d bought it from - thought to check the bulb first before running the same useless tests again.

A common problem is breakage of the wires in the rubber bellows between door and frame.

After years of avoiding automatics because I thought they were slow and sluggish I was forced by knee problems into buying one, and bought a cheap A4 Multi-tronic, expecting to hate it, but found it was really good, so I decided to upgrade. I've had an A6 C5 Allroad 3.0 Tdi manual on coils in the past, which I loved, so I thought I'd try another, but couldn't find one locally when I needed it, so bought a Volvo XC70 with the D5 & Geartronic as an alternative. Big mistake. Its a barge on wheels. Horrible to drive, slow and drinks fuel, so when I saw this 2.7 Tdi A6 C6 Allroad Avant with Tiptronic I jumped at it, and apart from minor teething problems with the electrics (see other posts) I absolutely love it. Not sure why you'd want quite so many ways to change gear, but hey: its smooth and quick. What's not to like? Anyone want an XC70?

No probs at all

When I bought the car the driver's door would unlock remotely, but not the passenger door. After a few days the driver's door packed up too. I changed the passenger door module for one from a breaker, which worked half-a-dozen times, then stopped. I exchanged it for another, which didn't work at all. I swapped the driver's door one, and this didn't work either, so I exchanged it, and again the replacement didn't work. Also the key operated window lift which has worked up to now stopped working! I'm wondering if I've been unlucky with 2nd hand units, whether I've been given the wrong parts, or whether there's something else going on. As far as I can tell the door control modules are all part number 4F095979 and then 2 for NSF, 3 for OSF, and 4/5 for the rear doors, but people list them differently. Also there's a range of suffix letters, I've come across P, E, T & C so far. Can anyone tell me what part numbers I should be looking for, and suggest any explanation for my lack of success? On the +ve side, I'm getting pretty slick at taking the door cards off! Thanks

If anyone does have difficulty with there ABS module with this fault reflashing it using Odis usualy solves the problem

atleast you can rule out the battery.

Ooops. In the time I replied I saw your great message. Happy days.