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Changed appropriate O2 sensor, warning light has reappeared, any ideas????

A4N1 903 028 B is the part fitted to mine. From my understanding,the N1 is updated from N0. I think the B at the end might be a refurbished part?

Ok thanks for that just out of interest how many miles did it last u if u can remember and what was the problem for it giving up

Hi Kari, do you know the part number of the new replacement upgraded Starter / Generator as I will swap the spare I have in on my garage shelf for the upgrade?

Hi all, new to the forum. I am looking for some help on locating the fuse for the air suspension pump on my Audi, 2008 2.7, A6, allroad, diesel, no power going to the air ride pump, thanks in advance. Aileen

Paid for a basic Autotrader history check at the time which showed no issues. I've just done a Car Vertical one too though and seems to check out, no odometer or damage history. My indie did say that there are some crash codes missing, so he thinks it's had a knock in the past. Thanks, I'd come across VAG technic. Seems to be lots of debate online about them in the forums but I spoke to the guy on the phone and he seemed reasonable, so maybe will try there next. Thanks very much for your help!

Any recommendations to get this done by a specialist in the North London area?

No choice i guess but to wait for them to figure out the issue to keep the warranty They claim a balloon like thing is the issue within the adblue tank, but they can't replace the balloon like item and need to replace the whole adblue tank

That's unfortunate. Did you verify the mileage with a additional check through Car Vertical or such like. That might be worth doing, just to see if there's been accident damage in the past. Seems unusual for prop shaft bearing to go at just 60k, unless this car has been subjected to some abuse. There's also VAG Technic - they are based in Dudley and know Audi inside out, so you could get second opinion there before you start stripping out gearboxes.

Might be leaking rocker cover. Assume 2.0TDI? Check the rubber seal on the oil filler cap. Clean up the oil misting with brake cleaner and watch for any further signs. Hasn't been serviced recently - as in oil spill on refilling?

HI, MY NEW AUDI Q3 1.5 TFSI (OCT 2024) DOES NOT HAVE A ENGINE COVER FITTED, ON CONTACTING AUDI PARTS DEPT, THEY TELL ME THAT AUDI DO NOT SUPPLY THEM, YET I HAVE SEEN THEM FOR SALE ON E BAY ETC, HAS ANYONE ELSE BOUGHT ONE ELSEWHERE?? THANKS IN ADVANCE BRIAN.

Just to keep you all updated. My car is sorted and back on the road. It only took a few days fortunately. I was told part fitted now is a better version. I did not to have to pay for anything it was done under 7 years extended warranty. Thank you all for sharing your experience here especially Mark as otherwise I would probably not know about it and ended up paying 1000s.

My previous car was a 2005 2ltr TDI sport, BKD engine. Had it 9 years. Possibly the most reliable car I’ve ever owned. That said, It wasn’t totally without its problems during my ownership and it was getting a bit tired towards the end of my ownershi but it was a Great car, build quality better than my current 2012 1.4 tfsi. Never tuned mine, engine was totally stock. They are plentiful and cheap now. Watch for rust in wheel arches , chasis, noisy, failing turbos

Hi, I have a 2006 Audi A3 1.9TDI, and am hoping to do a cluster swap to one with DIS also from the pre-facelift 8P. Is this possible to do myself or will it require a specialist garage or tools? From what I read it requires a 5 digit pin/skc from both the old and new clusters, and VCDS to put the old immobiliser data onto the new (used) cluster. Any input would be much appreciated, many thanks.

Hello guys, Anyone has experience something like that ? Should I start worry ? Thanks

I have got the car back from it's winter break, i hope to get it back on the road this summer. The clutch pedal box has been welded into the floor, I opted for a separate pedal rather than trying to change the pedal box from a manual c5. The clutch pipe needs fitting and the prop shaft needs fitting. The centre diff has been welded so it should run rear wheel drive now. The rear brakes will probably stay standard, the fronts are upgraded. I bought a pair of porsche 17z brembo calipers, but on trial fitting they don't fit with the wider s6 hubs and discs. I changed the wide track front hubs to the standard track front hubs from a seat exeo, with some mercedes c class 330mm discs and they all fit together fairly easily but i had to enlarge the mercedes disc centre and drill 14mm wheel bolt holes. The wheels will now need to be 10mm more offset, but I needed new ones anyway so no big issue. The interior has come from a c5 allroad, so it now has door cards and seats. I have added a rear spoiler, but nothing too major. Pictures of progress will be added, once it's going back together.

Hi, Does anyone know what the torque settings are for the dogbone mount on an audi a8 8v 2014 1.6tdi. There are 3 bolts. 2 go into the gearbox and 1 into the round bushing in subframe. Thanks

Hi guys, I have just bought a 2018 A5 2.0L Petrol Quattro (252ps) with 60k miles from a private seller (First Audi) Basic visual inspection, test drive were fine and it had a full Audi service history so was reassured. Shortly after sale I noticed a deep thumping from underneath the driver/passenger seats/ possibly a bit further back. It seems to happen in high torque situations, e.g. at low speed uphill, while gently applying the throttle. Specifically immediately after a gentle throttle pulse, I'll get a thump. Then when accelerating off, it will happen at a slightly higher frequency 'thump thump thump' as I'm pulling away...you can feel it more than you can hear it. It's irregular, not a rhythmic beating but more random. Furthermore when steering is locked and I accelerate, it happes at a very high frequency and becomes more like a rapid thumping that blends into a rumble. I took the car to my local mechanic who said no issues, just a loose undertray. Then took it to an indie who has experience with Audis and he found the rear transfer case of the gearbox is rattling badly - and thinks this is failing mechanically (videos attached of the rattle, more obvious on short clip). He also thinks replacing the gearbox will resolve the issue with the thumping. I was initially wondering whether it was a propshaft bearing issue from reading other forums. It was difficult to recreate the thumping noise with the car on the ramp and the wheels floating. Obviously the gearbox / rear transfer case does seem to have an issue and it's looking like a costly repair. Just wondering if anyone had any thoughts as to whether this is a complete replacement job, and whether this might be causing that deep thumping noise as well or is that possibly something else that will need doing? Regretting slightly the private sale at the moment. Shame as the car has been a beaut to drive until now. Thanks in advance 20250430_165306_2.mp4 20250430_165306_1.mp4

I think we can definitely say my EGR valve has been deleted, and it's so obvious now that it's funny. I've been intending for quite a while to try to find a missing fixing trim for my engine cover as shown below. However it now turns out that what I was missing was an EGR valve! Taxi for Dave please!

good afternoon I would not want to post it here just in case it is against the forum's rules. but all I can tell you is that a Google search found the APK for my Android phone and is free I can't update it. but says ultimate vag and has allowed me to do a lot of things to about 10 cars at work. there is a YouTube guy that does a guide on about 20 different OBD11 tools and how some of them are a scam like the Carly one where it clearly states you are paying a membership which you have to pay each year or something and he does not recommend getting it

Thanks for the pointer Steve. I've followed your suggestion and gone to a local fitter rather than one of the nationals and they've been very helpful. I just need to scrape together the necessary reddies to get it fitted now.

Late 2019 8V A3 S-Line 1.5TFSI, which I've had 5 days. I drove the car last night and all was fine - screen up, carplay running, all good. This morning, I start the car and the MMI screen is not rising out of the dash. I plugged my phone in and can operate carplay through the steering wheel, as in track skip and volume control, but the screen is still asleep in the dash. I've checked all the online vids about resetting the MMI system with Menu, knob and top right buttons, but I only have 2 buttons around the centre knob, not 4. All ideas, help and usggestions welcome. Thank you.

To update this post, the BSG was replaced in 5 days, less if we don't include the weekend. Very pleased with the way this repair was handled from start to finish. Now for the not so good bit. I was contacted to let me know that one of my wheels had been damaged and they needed 2 days to get it repaired. I'm a reasonable guy and although not pleased, fully understand that sometimes stuff just happens. I do appreciate the open and honest way they put their hand up to this. However another tyre on a different wheel has a big cut out of the sidewall and I dont think it's safe to drive on. I'd say it's been swapped from the wheel that sustained damage but cannot prove this. Overall, feeling happy to have the car back but can't help feeling let down at the end. Hope everyone else gets their broken motors back on the road without further problems. StandFree.

Have you got the link to send over where purchased it from.

Its unlikely repairs can be made, a lot of the auxillary engine parts manufacturered to acheive low emiision ratings have become so over complicated that to take it apart and recondition parts the labour to do so is two-thirds of the cost to replace it. Its intentional, car manufacturers are selling less cars today because the cost to make them has gone up. they are recouping reduction of new car sales in parts. This has been going on for the last 3 decades. Google wet timing belts.... which now seem to be going into nearly every vehicle. A rubber belt that deteriotates submerged in oil and carbon based chemicals added with heat alter the structure of the rubber belt overtime/use... They typically last long enough for the warranty to go by but not much longer.