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The sensors come in a matt black plastic. I actually thing that sensor is painted. I could be wrong, but there looks like a corrosion on the surface. Check with Audi, I think it’s called platinum gray and finished in satin matt. Removing the wheel arch isn’t too big a deal. You need to twist the old sensor out and unhook the wiring anyway, so even tight access isn’t likely to work.
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Still no update unfortunately, i am trying to find someone who can rebuild the engine for me in Hull area, so far not much luck.
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jim008 joined the community -
It’s this one that needs replacing so looks like no paiint of I had smaller hands I’m sure I could get to it…..
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Handy hints, thanks. I think I have at least one to replace myself and wasn't sure if I needed special paint so as not to damage functionality of the sensor.
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The Word Association Thread
daveyboy1967 replied to James's topic in Audi Club Lounge / General Chat
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john73 joined the community -
NigelK joined the community -
I recently decided to fit a decat delete pipe and egr blanking kit, had them fitted and obviously the EML light can on and threw codes for egr, but the car ran fine no issues, I’d been busy and not put the mapped file on, until Friday evening, I went to a job Saturday morning and the car had lost the low end torque, you can hear the turbo. I checked with the diagnostic tool and it came up MAF fault, I’ve checked all pipes and connections, I’ve ordered another MAF sensor, incase it has gone bad, anyone had similar issue, I remap cars and never had this with customers cars. I’m going to run the ori file and see what happens to rule out either a fault with map or fault with MAF sensor
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Ian1975 joined the community -
Edited to add. I will split if anyone wants the wheel or tyre separately. -
Lgh joined the community -
The electrodes are exactly as they should be. The oil on the thread has run down from the plug body because a sloppy mechanic has spilt oil into the recess during topping up.
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Hi mate, thanks for the reply please find the picture below. the car was cold I was just doing the spark plugs. The good thing is that it wasn’t in the actual pin so I reckon it’s not from the cylinder(?)also in the video it’s only on the 4th cylinder that it was “bad” so maybe the previous owner spilled the oil? I will monitor it anyway
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Me neither, but as I mentioned, the chaps at CAT Automotive warned me this might happen, because the (very cheap) cam I fitted was possibly not made to work with a DPF - ie it may have varied in lift and dwell from the original. He reckoned that the DPW engine was so finicky that it was a poor choice to put a DPF on, although it was a great engine in most other respects... His predictions came true - hence my plan to return it to a stock cam. Mike 😎
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mackus joined the community -
A trace of oil may be present in an engine that has just started from cold. However it's not normal in an engine that is in good condition and has been run long enough to warm up. Some black hard soot or coke is usual around the end of the thread; while the contacts usually have a pale grey-brown powdery coating. Presumably you have oily plugs or you would not be asking about them, so tell us how much and where, or post a detailed picture.
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Peteandrews1981 joined the community -
Centre
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AcePinero joined the community -
Jax40 changed their profile photo -
Hi guys, first post and first service for my Audi s3! Is it normal to find oil in the spark plugs? any feedback welcome!
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Jax40 joined the community
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positioned
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Gave mine a bit of a clean up so thought I'd share a pic of how she's looking after a year in my hands. Think I've finished all the modifying and retrofitting for now so just enjoying the driving.
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MackenzieG joined the community -
Looks stunning. Great spec of C6.
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Very nice. One of my friends who's a member on here lives in Bergen.
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Oslo next year
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help Shaking at idle (Sometimes Stalls) - Misfire all cylinders
spartacus 68 replied to SuperFastYo's topic in Audi A4 (B9) Forum
When replacing injectors (use a little ceramic grease on the body of the injector) and check if ‘o’ ring if one fitted needs replaced, plus the seating or sealing washer is new, use new stretch bolts and torque to specification, then tighten union nuts to fuel rail. If a new injector it needs coded to the car. -
2017 car could be anything, and sounds suspension related.
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Front wheel arch liner needs to come off (usually Torx head screws), and depending on location, engine tray too. Parts made by Valeo. Good opportunity to clean out annyway. Easy enough to prep yourself as Audi will charge small fortune for colour coded one. Make a mask template with card, lightly key PDC sensor with 1500 grit sandpaper, wipe sensor with isopropyl alcohol. First coat of plastic primer, couple of top colour coats and followed by a couple of clear lacquer flash coats. Read you can cure paint by popping in oven for a few minutes (without the rubber ‘o’ ring, but think I’d miss that part out, and just don’t jet-wash directly for a few weeks.
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help Shaking at idle (Sometimes Stalls) - Misfire all cylinders
SuperFastYo replied to SuperFastYo's topic in Audi A4 (B9) Forum
Haven't installed them. Today I removed pretty much everything on the right side of the engine. Tomorrow im installing new water pump and injectors. Also cleaning throttle body... I'll report back. -
Your local Audi dealer knows how to charge, I’ll say that. Some of those prices are frankly ridiculous. Most of it is wear and tear. The thing to remember is the S4 is a performance car and owning one will come with increased costs. There will be a reason the previous owner had a year, and to coin a phrase ‘wants to get out of Dodge!’ Go into it with your eyes open, or increase your budget and look for something a little younger with full service history. A trusted independent garage that are VAG knowledgeable should be able to reduce some of those costs on labour.
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