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I have the same problem on my aluminium suspension swing arms front&back on my A3 2lt TDI 2014. So does anyone know if can be repaired?

Thanks Steve, Hopefully I can have this resolved on Wednesday in that case! I’ll update the thread with the conclusion then.

Hi there are two level sensors under the back seat the problem one is the main tank sensor which involves taking out the seat squab and undoing the sealing cap and replacing the unit. Steve.

I think its project over for this year, the ecu is still at parcelforce, it has been since 18th June. I don't think I will see it anytime soon and I cannot do anything else untill it arrives.

Congratulations.

New sensors all round and new brake pads at the front - they did warn that they didn't look too worn before they changed them, but I told them to go ahead and change them just in case. Working OK now which is the main thing.

Hi ive an audi a3 2016 tdi and the bushes to the sway bar have failed is it possible to change the to an aftermarket part or do I need to replace the full sway bar as the bushes are bonded on thanks

Hi Everyone, I couldn't find any similar posts on this issue. Last weekend I filled my car from 1/4 tank to full, when I started it up the fuel level hadn't changed, I turned it off and on again and the fuel now read at empty and 0 miles, a few seconds later a tank malfunction error message popped up. I drove away and before long it jumped up to full. I scanned the car with OBD Eleven and its showing fault code B103E1B - Fuel level sensor 1 resistance too high. I've read elsewhere that this can cause DPF issues if the sensor fails entirely, as the car will think it has no fuel and therefore will not do a DPF regen so I am keen to get this sorted before it turns into a bigger issue. Does anyone know how straightforward of a repair this is? Can the sensor be accessed from under the rear bench or through the boot, or does this require the fuel tank to be dropped out of the car? The car is booked in with my local specialist on Wednesday, its his last day before he heads away on holiday for 2 weeks, and he'll only be able to do it if its an easy job because of the workload he has on that day, he's taking it in to look at it as a favour. if it requires dropping the tank I will have to wait to the end of July for a proper booking. I go through a tank of diesel a week on average. I filled it again on Thursday and the same happened, but this time it took much longer for the fuel to jump up to full. So I expect it will fail completely soon. The fuel level also fluctuates as I drive, going both up and down one tick. I see there is a recall out for this exact issue, but unfortunately my car is not included in the recall! Just like when I had the dreaded alternator fault we all know and love. Any help is appreciated!

Morning everyone, Thought I’d chuck a post up and see what people think. Had the car a few months it’s a b7 1.9tdi, supposedly remaped by the last owner. I’ve spent most of the last 6 months repairing all the stupid mistakes they made and anything else left behind. Current issues are : EML on for glow plug system error (glow plug error not on dash. Oil coolant level low - it’s never low despite it telling me m Knocking from the front end on stopping.

A My A6 c7 has came up on the dash to add 1 litre of oil. I added 1 litre and then came up again 1 week later, done the same again. Eventually I got the mechanic to check it out. Couldn't see anything wrong , no oil leaking , replaced the engine oil sensor, 5 litres taken out and 7 added. Three weeks later same thing happened again. Dip stick added and the levels are okay. Anyone else experience this or similar? Thanks

There's usually a stop start button to switch the system off, or a light in the instrument panel.

I just wanted another opinion on what I already knew , thanks for your imput

Please keep us posted on how you get on

I dont believe so. It could affect the emissions but not enough to fail an MOT I believe.

Rear parking sensors fitted too!

Are there any mechanical consequences when you disable the ad blue from the ecu

Publish your clip to YouTube then link it back here. Loud turbo, not sure. Granted, it will kick in around 1,500 rpm, but if it was noisy such as over-boost, I’d expect it to go into limp mode. If car is scanned with VCDS that should rule that out. Brakes, sticky caliper can make a noise, but disc would heat up and you’d smell burning. Stone behind disc and brake shield? Discs heating up then you’ll see heat spots. To rule out, drive for 10-15 minutes and coast to a stop. Discs should be warm, but definitely not hot. When auxilliary serpentine drive belt was changed, no issues with job, no bearings on way out? No loss of coolant or other indicators?

Thanks for the reply back, Spartacus. Appreciate the clip may not show much but thought it may add a bit of context - weird its not viewable? I'll try again just in case. And yeah I agree it sounds like a wheel bearing. I'm not an expert by any means on these things but I'll put it to my mechanic and they'll give it a once over. Will tell them to raise the front end like you said, to check lateral movements. Anything else you think it could be? The car runs really well otherwise and its been in good nick since its recent major services I mentioned. 20260702_121029.mp4

so in general,the water isn’t coming out of sunroof,it’s coming from that sound barrier? I can’t open any file/video on this page. Can someone reach out to me,my email is [email protected] with the video and pdf file of bulletin how to fix it. Thank you!

Hi my keyfob won't work so changed battery and still the same so I use door key which activated my alarm and it wouldn't start I put keys in the right place to connect but kept saying key not detected Its a a5 40tfsi 2022plate

Your video doesn’t play. Invariably these clips don’t add anything to pinpoint the source issue. If you’ve had car 8 years, then you know service history. Suspect it could be a wheel bearing. You tend to hear them between 40-50mph. If you’re hearing it from 20mph it must be particularly bad. Couple of ways to pinpoint them. Car raised at front, both sides. Hold wheel at 10-to-2 position and try lateral movement. Then try at 12-to-6 position. Any movement should be obvious. That can still be difficult to confirm, so other way is to remove brake caliper and feel the hub rotation. Cars with Quattro drive are always hard to pinpoint. Luckily it’s a hub unit. Four triple-square bolts hold it on. You’ll need to remove through hub bolt too, and replace. Bad news is these bearing hubs can seize on, so air hammer is your friend for these jobs, plus flap wheel to clean any oxide corrosion. Use a smear of ceramic grease on new bolts. Parts wise, F.A.G. units every time. Pretty sure that will be OEM. Always fit in pairs.

Thanks for the advice, ill have a shop around and see what decent wheels I can find 👍

Hi guys New to the Audi forum, even though I've had my car for about 8 years. Had a lot of work done on it lately, including crank pulley, drive belt, water pump, coolant valve, etc. Car is in otherwise good working order and has clocked up 108k miles. Last few days, I've noticed that when I accelerate (and ONLY when I accelerate), car is making an audible sound when I go past 20mph. Its not going into limp mode. It still pulls well and the revs go up as they should. The more I accelerate, the more this noise gets louder. The clutch doesn't feel too spongey or too firm. At a push, the accelerator pedal may be giving off a very subtle vibration - nothing major. The best way I can describe the sound is like that of a sporty car with a loud exhaust when it is being driven fast. Like a loud whining sound? I have attached a clip that will hopefully be able to help. My possible thoughts are either something to do with the turbo or the wheel bearing. Many thanks in advance for anyone that recognises the issue!20260702_121029.mp48

The greater the offset, the more the rim is moved away from the hub, so you need more offset to clear the leg.

Count yourself lucky its not the V10. The V8 is generally reliable, however you're buying a 2016-2018 supercar, so it's been around. History is everything. If there's more paperwork than a Brexit export, then you're on the right lines. If the tyres are on the legal limit and brakes need a refresh, then be aware it will be expensive and more importantly question why? Simply saying RS6 seems to add £2k to everything. I'd want the car scanned first off with VCDS to see if there's any historical DTC errors logged. This is a performance car so oil changes every 5-8k miles. In terms of issues. Air intake valves can carbon up. You could treat it to a walnut blast. It's sensor heavy, so if original battery, factor in replacement. It needs coded to car and vented. If panoramic roof, check drain holes. Run mild detergent down them (exit above hinge on front door) and behind rear wheel arch liner. VAG have specific grease for sunroof. Also clean rubber seals. Assuming LED headlights. Potentially LED matrix if later car. Then check operation. Dipping light adjustment on start up is normal, but any further sporadic movent underway points to damaged or siezed height adjustment sensors. Servicing, diffs could use gear oil change. Depends on mileage. It's a ZF 6-speed transmission, but there will be a filter kit, so unless evidence of having it done, factor in. Cooling, apparently this thing has multiple radiators, fans and oil coolers. All are prone to wear and tear. If the car was remapped, be very wary.