All Activity

Sorry for long post. I have a Japanese imported Audi Q3 Quattro 2014 Automatic with mileage of 62,000 and after approx. 1 month I noticed when I first got in car and pulled away there was a type of thud sound coming from rear it does it 3 or 4 times as I drive along then stops. It doesn’t do it again only on start up and only if car been sitting a few hours. I took it for a full service at Audi main dealership including replacing Haldex oil and nothing was found. My husband who is a mechanic for another main dealer has gone over the car and found nothing wrong and in fact both have said the car is in excellent condition. I did wonder if it was gear change thing as I when I start off, I go ridiculously slowly it doesn’t do it almost seems to start when car changes from first to second etc.. but nothing found wrong with gears etc. on examinations. There are no faults on computer of dash so I’m baffled. Don’t really want to take the car back as it is a good car in great condition. Has anyone else experienced this?

Alright, calm down...I'm not trying to make fun of anyone, but just to lighten the mood, as I'm trying to find a solution to my problem.

I am not a betting man but as with my experience, after changing the MAF and the light coming back on, the pressure sensor is the next suspect. I think the MAF is less likely to fail and I wish I had looked at pressure sensor first as was a fraction of the price.

We are a welcoming group here, so please don’t extract the urine Lukas.

Sorry...I believed it was the work location field...changed! Mod. note- previously Brothel.

Your Town/Country location Lukas - really??

I have not idea as i bought the car like that from previous owner he told me that the dpf has been removed i was driving it for like 4 months got it serviced and the engine light lit up got it changed and it lit up again with the same issue soo i dont know it could be pressure sensor

If you have had the DPF delete then was the sensor mapped out too? I do not think this would be the case as the two sensors work as a pair. I would also of thought that an out of range reading will give you an error on sensor fail even where the pressures are not as if read from a legitimate DPF. If the MAF is good then I would explore changing the pressure sensor - I have lost my notes on it but the fault was an "improbable" reading.

I've got this error code popping up once in a while (probably 1-2 years now if not more) and never on cold engine, only when fully warms up + some driving on top of it. Can also notice a drop in RPM. Jumping from gear to neutral right before coming to a stop is usually when it feels like it's getting in the zone of stalling 500-600RPM it seems, but it never does, just jerks a bit, and RPM goes up again. But if I give it gas it will likely drop afterwards again when in neutral. Enabling A/C does help with RPM, it becomes more stable in situations like this. Anyone dealt with this issue before ? Also idk if related, but gas station pump clicks and have to keep nozzle halfway in to fill it up. My guess would be to look at EVAP system, but would it be even related to p1031 ? Engine: 2L FSI 110kw petrol.

Hello, My Q4’s charging flap is locked and I’m unable to unlock it. This has happened once before, and at that time I was able to release it using the emergency cord. However, this time the emergency release doesn’t seem to be working—possibly because I pulled it too hard the last time. I've looked online and it appears this is a common issue with this model. f you have any suggestions or new advice, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance for your help!

Evening everyone. Just purchased a 2015 Audi S7 V8 450bhp petrol with 96000 miles, lovely car but has just thrown up the error on my ODB2 o2 sensor signal stuck lean; bank 1 sensor 2. Is this an easy fix to do at home, or a garage job? If it can be done at home where can i find it? Thank you.

Will it still work even tho the dpf has been removed? Got the same issue maf sensor came up got it changed and it lit up again

Does it really need to be spelled out?

Often get multiple faults after disconnecting the battery. Need to leave it disconnected for about 30 mins. Usually clears after driving a couple of miles. If the airbag light stays on a useful fault code reader is OBDeleven that also resets fault codes. Basic version is about £50 and pro version about £80. Since dealers charge about £100 to run a diagnostic they are worth considering.

Think i have found the correct locations. The picture listed in the haynes workshop manual page 1A.10 calls this the filler but it looks to be the drain plug. The filler looks to be located higher up at the back of the gear box. The picture with the drive shaft shows the drain plug 17mm hex in the lower section. Other picture shows the filler plug just sticking out at the rear of the gear box. Will give this a go next weekend if the weather stays dry.

Get new fans with housing?

Update - received my obdeleven today and plugged it in. 3 persistent faults. MAF - understandable as unplugged Fault code 01314 Fault code 01592 Anyone think that either of these could contribute? Could 01314 be due to maf being unplugged?

Hi, I purchased a car soft audi v3 old reader and it has option for resetting and reading airbag codes was only £199 on amazon, something like that might be worth a try

Happy days, thanks for coming back to me, I really appreciate the advice. I will upload comments once i find out 🙂

As you said, the housing is loose so it's likely the fans are hitting it or something else in the vicinity. The solution I would say is obvious.

Good. Your mechanic should have warned you of the potential for failure. Perhaps consider going elsewhere next time.

Welcome Phil, Admitting I don’t know on this model, but logic will obviously point to the filler plug being above the drain plug. Haynes Manuals? - notoriously generic - so don’t always accept all that you read. Might be worth looking at LLL Parts website in the hope they have an exploded view diagram. This bit is of vital importance and should be written in caps:- Always - without exception- make sure you can undo and access the filler plug, before removing the drain plug. Let us know how you get on Phil. Regards, Gareth.

This might help but check the engine code https://r-techperformance.co.uk/axx-bwa-tfsi-k04-turbo-conversion/ Obviously it won't make the power on this website unless you add a whole load of supporting hardware. If you don't change the fuel pump at least change the follower if not already. Same with the PCV will most probably fail with more boost, rocker gaskets often go also. My TT has the KO4 from the standard since it uses the CDL engine. I got compressor surge trying to get past 350BHP so I had to get a better turbo and ditch the stock KO4

Hi. I'm looking to change the gear / transmission oil on an A3 1.6 petrol 2010. I removed the front passenger wheel and took a few pictures but not sure where in earth the hex drain plug is... the haynes manual says the bottom hex bolt is the refill overflow one? The one over to the right

Hi all When I go and switch the ac on, both fans come on (which I believe is normal), but the housing seems loose and the whole car shakes when they're running. I've turned them by hand and bearings are smooth and they're not loose, apart from the slight cushioning that, again, I think is normal, when I press them towards the radiator. Please see video of them running. Thanks! 20250531_180006.mp4