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Hi, does anyone know if a Audi A3 2012 has a clutch cable or is it hydraulic? Thanks

At the risk of stating the obvious, but could it be possible that the replacement screen is faulty? Especially if it is a second hand one? I know this does not happen very often, but maybe it is as simple as that. I have once bought a reconditioned part and it was faulty (although it was then replaced by the shop without any hassle). I'm sure it has happen to others as well. Other option could be the faulty screen on/off button perhaps? Not much help, I know.

I doubt it was the jump start that caused the problem. My guesses are: [1] the head unit you removed was integral to the ECU. Can you refit it to test? [2] the 12 volt battery is dying. How old is it?

Welcome Mike, Have you talked with Audi Customer Services to confirm/refute that? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi i was told by a dealer that if q5 2016 has full glass sun roof cant tow caravan with it as it might crack the glass in sunroof any heard of this ?

Hey everyone. Im new to the forum and to Audi's in general so i apologise in advance if what im saying has been mentioned before. Iv recently purchased a 2006 8P A3 with a 2.0 FSI petrol. I got it cheap with some jobs needing doing to it. Im located in New Zealand, this car was a japanese import(yes a bit odd). And it came with a japanese head unit that was useless. After i had the car mostly sorted and ready to go i thought id throw a new head unit in. I then found that the japanese head unit had about 20 kilometres of extra wiring added to the original loom. Stupidity i left the ignition on for the hours i spent untangling the mess. And when i finally had it working and went to start the car i got a battery warning light and a very slow crank. Iv only ever driven "older" more basic japanese cars and 4x4's so i instinctively hooked some jump leads on and fired the a3 up. To which i was met with a engine light, power steering light and a esp light. I plugged in my cheap obd2 scanner to find the fault saying "lost communication with tcm" i cleared the code and found that the other 2 lights might just need a drive to sort themselves out. So i went to go for a drive. But, the car is stuck in park. I found the emergency release, and once released the car goes into gear but with a sizeable clunk. Iv spent hours checking every fuse in the engine bay and the dash but nothing was blown. Im totally stumped now. Is it possible that iv done some serious damage to the TCM or could there be another fuse box that i could check? Any help at all would be really appreciated. Auto electricians aren't cheap so im doing my best to try avoid it. Thanks in advance

Thanks. Apparently its Navarra Blue.

Hi all. First time owner of an Audi and looking for a reputable specialist near Heathrow Airport. Cheers all.

I have a 2005 Audi a6 and the mmi screen does not work but everything else does, centre console lights, radio, media etc. I have replaced the screen and it still does not work at all.

You'd need to get a Bose to iso wiring loom adapter. Also have to run a switched live from the fuse box to the new adapter, to have it turn on when you turn the key.

No, they’re not 9-spoke (5-stud) Audi rims, which is my point. As per the post, these are 4x100 and likely aftermarket.

https://www.google.com/search?num=10&sca_esv=973c07562d464363&rlz=1C1VDKB_enGB1146GB1146&sxsrf=AHTn8zrX7JoheX3PD95nRALUgzozX7mhuA:1746480488528&q=9+spoke+audi+alloy+wheels+names&udm=2&fbs=ABzOT_CWdhQLP1FcmU5B0fn3xuWpA-dk4wpBWOGsoR7DG5zJBsxayPSIAqObp_AgjkUGqengxVrJ7hrmYmz7X2OZp_NIYfhIAjPnSJLO3GH6L0gKvuUU9jOm91_NGkSK1WJYVWjjHf1cMeOfIs5S2VkHB51zdvs5rEFgawK72NTjOMMeP0ZkzDJsLwBUA55RuQQ6_IgnTa_0Sg-ZSjc8BLe0lulqWQaGgA&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjp1YDpoo2NAxW66wIHHXB7HLoQtKgLegQIFBAB&biw=1536&bih=735&dpr=1.25

Hi I’ve just bought a 1999 Cabriolet and whilst I quite like the 9-spoke wheels that are on it, I’ve no idea what they are? They look like TT/RS 17’ 5-bolt wheels, but they are a bit of an odd 4-bolt arrangement (see last pic). Really tight to get the wheel brace on there and they seem to have 8 potential bolt holes 🤪 Thinking they must be aftermarket (no Audi markings) yet I’ve seen them on other Cabrio’s so I am wondering if anyone here could possibly identify them? Thanks in advance and so glad to have finally landed a Cabriolet, been looking for ages.

Yeah agreed I’d estimate between £3-4K on a trade in and a like for like replacement 2019 model would be between £20k-£25k. I’m more than familiar with the exhaust centre section having replaced it multiple times but good to know there’s a stainless equivalent. Cheers for that Where are the eccentric bolts located on the subframe ? Would I have to take note of the original position and try to best match it? It would be going for a full alignment on successful replacement.

Is it a hatch or estate? Is there water still in the unit? You could possibly fix it but cleaning up the brass contacts in the connector. I had a similar problem with the number plate lights, there was a small amount of verdigris that was enough to break continuity.

Looks like Scuba Blue, however, check the build sticker in the boot recess, assuming this has a space saver, you’re looking for LX5Q or similar.

I bought a compressor and air hammer for the dreaded pinch bold on upper arms on front suspension. I’m sure it’s possible to do this rear subframe job without it, although I’d want a Milwaukee 1/2” impact wrench with a swivel head as payback, as you’re on axle stands and not always east to get a breaker bar on it. For exhaust, cut off the centre connection brackets which will be like cheese anyway and fit Mikalor stainless clamps. Basically fit and forget. Yes, you can leave brake calipers and brake lines connected, but you’ll need to support somehow. On 2012, then trade in isn’t what you think it will be. The car is probably worth more to you than what it’s worth financially, if subframe is an advisory. Ultimately this is down to time and resource. If you’ve worked on Land Rovers, this will be a walk in the park. You have eccentric bolts that control camber. Typically these are seized. I’d get new Audi bolts for that and lightly grease with ceramic grease.

Thanks for the quick response. Defo not a bearing its not a constant rubbing noise , it's like a pulsing sound that increases with speed , i can sometimes get a smell of hot metal after a long journey, and wheels are warm but disc far to hot to touch , I didn't strip the calipers as its the rear caliper with an electronic handbrake and don't have the confidence to attempt that , so can't tell if the hub was clean or not , but my guess is probably not cleaned by garage , all too busy for that in my local garage . Whatever about the safety side of it the noise is doing my head in .

More likely to be sticking caliper causing grief. Is the brake disc sitting on a very clean hub? Any corrosion on the hub will manifest itself through the brake disc to the pedal. Also rule out worn wheel bearing. Drive the car for a few miles and coast to a stop. If the disc is getting hot, you’ll smell it and feel the heat. Tell-tale heat spots on the disc will confirm. Worn wheel bearing will have constant audible rumble in the background around 40-50mph, rather that tell-tale wheel wobble if you lift car and hold wheel at 10 to 2 position. You can raise car, grip the coil spring and rotate the wheel. Any vibration could inducate goosed bearing. A full brake dismantle is probably required. Are pads able to move in carrier, etc. Are brake sliders seized? Yes, okay to keep driving, but avoid heavy braking. Depending on the eventual outcome, you may be swapping out pads again.