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MMI Screeen

Featured Replies


Audi Q3 2014 - the MMI screen is dead, so I ordered a replacement second hand unit with the same part number as the screen removed. I've plugged the unit but still no display.

I've read various posts on the subject and I've tried the following:

1. Resetting the MMI - I think on this model it is the main centre button, menu plus the top right arrow together - the radio goes off and comes back on after releasing the buttons
2. Checked all fuses (in the cabin and under the bonnet)
3. Checked the cable that plugs into the screen as I read it can become worn due to the screen popping up and down - there isn't any noticeable signs of wear and tear

Of course I can't rule out having been sent a faulty replacement screen but before I return it are there any others things to check as I'm kind of out of ideas.

Thanks in advance.

On 7/2/2024 at 11:41 PM, spacebiscuit said:


Audi Q3 2014 - the MMI screen is dead, so I ordered a replacement second hand unit with the same part number as the screen removed. I've plugged the unit but still no display.

I've read various posts on the subject and I've tried the following:

1. Resetting the MMI - I think on this model it is the main centre button, menu plus the top right arrow together - the radio goes off and comes back on after releasing the buttons
2. Checked all fuses (in the cabin and under the bonnet)
3. Checked the cable that plugs into the screen as I read it can become worn due to the screen popping up and down - there isn't any noticeable signs of wear and tear

Of course I can't rule out having been sent a faulty replacement screen but before I return it are there any others things to check as I'm kind of out of ideas.

Thanks in advance.

Hi, I'd check the cables for continuity.  The outer insulation sheath may look good, but the only sure way to check is a continuity check using a multimeter.  If you've a Fluke MM - all the better as these are what we use in work.  Our subsea camera whips (waterproof cables) break down after a period of time due to the pan and tilt operation of the camera.  They look fine on the outside, but we usually find that the conductors inside are snapped.   You should also wiggle the cable while testing.  So you may need a hand from someone. 

If you've a schematic drawing (or get hold of one) you should be able to trace and 'bell out' the cables.

Edited by Rigger

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