Hi all, I’m new to this group so any help would be greatly appreciated. I’ve owned my 2011 Audi A3 for around 3 years now and a couple of months ago returning to my car after work had seen the whole back right was leaning. Low and behold the suspension had gone. I’m no expert whatsoever in car parts nor have I experience in fixing cars. I’m wanting to know basically if I could fix this myself with my step dad buying parts or if I have to bite the bullet and pay for a trailer etc to be taken to a garage. 
 

any help would be great appreciated! 

Welcome Owen and sorry to hear of your issue. 
Corrosion of these bottom suspension pans is not uncommon, and it looks like the top one is not too healthy either.

I would rate this as a job not to consider unless you have a comprehensive array of tools, jacks and a safe spring compressor. 
My first port of call would be to give the near side a good coat of inspection, since this might also be in need of sorting. 
When was the car last MOT’d Owen? 
It seems the car has now been sitting around for a couple of months, which suggests you don’t desperate need it. 
Sorry to say, but unless you are a confident and experienced car DIYer. you will need to get it transported and repaired by a garage. 
Regards,

Gareth. 

Hi Gareth and thanks for your reply! 
 

My stepdad builds and races dragsters in his spare time but he’s away from home a lot and doesn’t have a lot of free time of his hands. He does have a lot of suitable tools and jacks in your garage hence the question of me ‘trying’ to fix it. The car was mot’d last year. I bought a cheap runner just to get me to work and places but Ideally would like to get it fixed and running again. 
 

do you have any idea how much somewhere would charge for this? 

Thanks Owen.

So is the MOT current or not?
It would amaze me that this car part would have deteriorated to the extent it has in 1 year. This would lead me to question how thorough the last MOT was, and what the rest of the car is like in reality. 

If you or your stepdad intend to do it -?

He would appear to be equipped and capable of carrying out this work. Saying it as I see it, you don’t, and as such I would dissuade you from attempting it do it, unless on the basis of you being an assistant to him, whenever the car is worked on, in his workshop. 
Cost to get it repaired?

Very much an open ended question, since if this pan has gone as bad as it is, I would doubt whether the other suspension parts on that side would be worth leaving unchanged - leave alone the condition of the other side. 
Regards,

Gareth. 

Thanks for liking the reply Owen, but what about an answer to the MOT question, and it would be great to have your views on the suggestions made. 

So you are not going to return with a couple of answers then Owen-?

That's a horrifying degree of corrosion which can not have happened in one year, so any MOT you may have must be considered fake. I suggest you get the car inspected by another tester before spending any money on the car in case there is other corrosion to be rectified.

Owen remains conspicuous in his absence since questions are being asked about the last MOT.

So I noticed Gareth. Reading between the lines I doubt we will get a reply.

Let’s be kind, considerate and positive in respect to Owen’s return!!! 

Hello Owen,

It seems being kind, considerate and positive just hasn’t worked, and it appears to be the silly season in respect of a number of new posters not bothering to respond to questions asked, and being honest, I fed up with it. Moderators should not have to spend their time doing this. 
In terms of this thread, my personal view is that even if the rotten component is replaced, it would be reasonable to suspect that other components maybe substandard. As Cliff sensibly points out, that pan would not have deteriorated to that extent in one year, so perhaps - just perhaps - the last MOT inspector was Stevie Wonder! 
Due to the lack of response, I am of the view that the forum should disassociate itself from any advice given, and recommend the car is removed to an MOT station for thorough examination prior to any work being undertaken on it.

Regards,

Gareth. 

This isn't a job that can be done at home, the rear transverse links have an eccentric bolt on the subframe and will need an alignment.

At the very least I’d want air hammer/air chisel before attempting. I don’t believe this would have passed MOT a year before. At very least it would have had advisory for rear subframe corrosion.

Eccentric bolts correct. Will need new ones, plus alignment after fitting.

Draper 14173 spring compressors work a treat.

1 hour ago, spartacus 68 said:

At the very least I’d want air hammer/air chisel before attempting. I don’t believe this would have passed MOT a year before. At very least it would have had advisory for rear subframe corrosion.

Eccentric bolts correct. Will need new ones, plus alignment after fitting.

Draper 14173 spring compressors work a treat.

Agreed, there must have been an advisory at least a year or two before.

Shouldn't need spring compressors for the rear, once the rear is at full droop there's little tension on it, just need a jack to raise the link when the new spring is installed. 

I’ve now locked this thread, since all advice, although helpful, seems surplus to requirements.